velocity 50 N2 Build Thread

[Triple-D]

I'm using a MultoGov Pro with a Spektrum baseplate sensor but the kit does come with a sensor bracket & pre drilled holes in the clutch bell for magnets so you can go with whatever you like.

How does the Spektrum baseplate sensor work with multigov? Are you running an OS 55HZ?

[raptorheli2]

1st hard flight and it all ends in tears!!!!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]36024[/ATTACH]

Something failed on the head we think, low inverted went to punch out and nothing happened.

Boom, Boom supports, head links skids, main shaft, canopy cracked and my lovely 620 Maniacs delaminated!

doesn't sound like something on head failed based on what your saying. head failures are as brutal a failure as you can get on a heli and instantly recognisable usually either as it happens or upon inspection.

from what your saying and without knowing how your radio was setup i would think your swash jammed or you lost power to your radio briefly. ofcourse you have not given a lot of info but based on what little you have just now that would be my thinking.

the crash damage looks very light thankfully regardless what happened.

nothing you mention on the damaged list shouts out failure to cause what you describe.

couple of things would be good to know if you checked them as soon as you got the wreckage before re-powering-

was power there ok?
was a failsafe set and did it do anything?
were you hovering happily and went to punch out and nothing happened or was there a noise or anything?
what voltage was your RX pack when you got the heli?
if spektrum was the lights doing anything?
was there any evidence of anything jammed between swash/main mast or scoring etc (the crash may well have dislodged anything IF it was this)

cheers

[Gate88]

and how did it hold up ?

Difficult to say I managed to hit TH long before it went in so that helped keep the damage fairly minimal but on the face of it Id say its fairly resiliant.

How does the Spektrum baseplate sensor work with multigov? Are you running an OS 55HZ?

Yes I'm running the OS 55 and the sensor just plugs onto the board of the Multigov.

doesn't sound like something on head failed based on what your saying. head failures are as brutal a failure as you can get on a heli and instantly recognisable usually either as it happens or upon inspection.

from what your saying and without knowing how your radio was setup i would think your swash jammed or you lost power to your radio briefly. ofcourse you have not given a lot of info but based on what little you have just now that would be my thinking.

the crash damage looks very light thankfully regardless what happened.

nothing you mention on the damaged list shouts out failure to cause what you describe.

couple of things would be good to know if you checked them as soon as you got the wreckage before re-powering-

was power there ok?
was a failsafe set and did it do anything?
were you hovering happily and went to punch out and nothing happened or was there a noise or anything?
what voltage was your RX pack when you got the heli?
if spektrum was the lights doing anything?
was there any evidence of anything jammed between swash/main mast or scoring etc (the crash may well have dislodged anything IF it was this)

cheers

Everything was fully charged, and all the servos were working I checked when I first got to it.

Well it had stood up to a few tic tocs, nose down & nose up, some hard flips, normal and inverted piros and some hard pitch pumps, I came in for a low inverted pass as it came in close I stuck in a load of negative and instead of darting straight up it arced over and twisted round, I still had tail and throttle just nothing on the cyclic. The problem now is that both the grip to swash links are missing, the link on the elevator "A" arm is broken one of my servos horns has snapped off and the 3 swash to bell crank links are badly bent so its impossible to work out what was the cause or what was a result of the crash.

My money is on the servo horn, I couldnt get the 6 degrees needed with regular size wheels, I needed 18mm from the centre so used some horns instead and with that much leverage on them I guess they were always going to be the weakest link.

[raptorheli2]

if it arced it sounds like maybe you slipped a servo spline and it eventually let go?

i can't see your setup but you should always have the servo and bell cranks at same distance and do your adjustments on the head if possible (this is why outrage give you mixing options on the head). this way puts the least amount of stress on your gear and offers you better servo resolution which will aid your fbl system (or flybar for that matter)

sorry to see you have bad luck yet again with your gear but these things are sent to try us.

cheers

[Gate88]

if it arced it sounds like maybe you slipped a servo spline and it eventually let go?

i can't see your setup but you should always have the servo and bell cranks at same distance and do your adjustments on the head if possible (this is why outrage give you mixing options on the head). this way puts the least amount of stress on your gear and offers you better servo resolution which will aid your fbl system (or flybar for that matter)

The only mixing options I can find on the head are the holes where the balls go on the ends of the blade grip arms, I tried inner and outer holes on them but was only getting 3 or 4 degrees at the blue light on my BeastX, other than that the only adjustment I had was to start moving the balls out on the cyclic servo wheels. Is there another way of increasing my cyclic limit on this heli?

[waveydavey]

Not if the head is the same as the fusion

[raptorheli2]

i know delboy has the same setup Guy so if i get a look at his then i'll let ye know.

but regardless with ANY heli you should try to keep the servos the same distance as the bellcranks where possible. it is not vitally important but it is best practice-put it that way.

cheers

[Gate88]

but regardless with ANY heli you should try to keep the servos the same distance as the bellcranks where possible. it is not vitally important but it is best practice-put it that way.

As arule of thumb I usualy do but even by maxing everything out on the N2 I couldnt get close to the magic 6 degrees cyclic limit on the BeastX, whenever Ive set models up before I'm usualy going way over the 6 degrees and I tend to just ignore it and get it as close as I can but Im pretty sure if youre under 6 degrees the Bx isnt going to behave properly.

Perhaps Dave Who Waves can enlighten me? What distance are your balls from centre on your cyclics Dave?

[raptorheli2]

Guy, i'm not a beastx user and i only owned one briefly so i don't know how important hitting that number is but if it is in the manual then generally an idea to hit it to begin with.

sorry i can't answer your question directly since i don't own an N2 or beastx.

cheers

[Gate88]

I'm pretty sure were talking about the same geometry as the Fusion so anyone running a Fusion with Bx can probably point me in the right direction.

[LipolyGone]

I had to put mine on the outside set of holes when I had the beast on mine & got 6 degrees no problem.

[waveydavey]

I haven't finished building Guy, but for you I'd happily spend a few hours setting it up and see what falls out

[waveydavey]

As arule of thumb I usualy do but even by maxing everything out on the N2 I couldnt get close to the magic 6 degrees cyclic limit on the BeastX, whenever Ive set models up before I'm usualy going way over the 6 degrees and I tend to just ignore it and get it as close as I can but Im pretty sure if youre under 6 degrees the Bx isnt going to behave properly.

Perhaps Dave Who Waves can enlighten me? What distance are your balls from centre on your cyclics Dave?

It's the 6 degrees reference that's important, the blue just tells you much the same as the V Bar that the resolution and geometry is good for flybarless.

[praztek]

I have a few questions / observations during my build. Thanks in advance.

Main shaft locking collar, don’t see one listed in manual. So, the only option is to “adjust bottom bearing block “ to eliminate any up and down play of shaft and tighten down.

Throttle linkage rod “ 47 mm “ ? I gotta tell ya, all the other ball links were ok in setting up, but this one, is killing my fingers, even when heating up with a hair dryer.

Exhaust line from fuel tank, routing through frame hole, thinking of putting something to prevent chafing

Pinning the tail to the boom with supplied screw, should I pre drill a hole into the boom ?

Swash is pretty tight even when links are not attached, believe I’ve read that this is know and will loosen up in time

[waveydavey]

I have a few questions / observations during my build. Thanks in advance.

Main shaft locking collar, don’t see one listed in manual. So, the only option is to “adjust bottom bearing block “ to eliminate any up and down play of shaft and tighten down.

Throttle linkage rod “ 47 mm “ ? I gotta tell ya, all the other ball links were ok in setting up, but this one, is killing my fingers, even when heating up with a hair dryer.

Exhaust line from fuel tank, routing through frame hole, thinking of putting something to prevent chafing

Pinning the tail to the boom with supplied screw, should I pre drill a hole into the boom ?

Swash is pretty tight even when links are not attached, believe I’ve read that this is know and will loosen up in time

There is no locking collar, you do indeed push the bottom bearing up, I like the design.

The ball links are bloody tight, I used a tap just to get the thread started and use a ball link tool too.

Yes pre drill the hole otherwise you will just get a dent.

Good luck with it, I'm in the process of building a Fusion and apart from a few niggles I'm enjoying it. There will be a few in the club this year so it looks like Outrage are going in the right direction