Originally posted by whittm
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So I'd start by setting the throws in the swash mix, max cyclics and close to where you want on collective, then you have the full range of motion at the swash. Then go to mid stick and see where you're at, should be zero pitch. Level the swash at mid stick, then check it at the top and bottom with a leveling tool or some way to see if it's tilting at all. I use the leveling tool and set it under the swash and look at it at eye level with the white wall of our lounge in the background and this way I can spot even a tiny gap. You want everything in the linkage nice and parallel at zero pitch / mid-stick and ideally if you can acheive this by just adjusting the linkage but a little subtrim is OK - once you're level at mid stick don't touch the subtrims again. Once it's level at mid stick, check it at the top and if it's level at mid stick but goes out a bit at the top (or bottom) then the travel adjusts need changing a bit, then do the same at bottom stick. (and obviously you want to be using a pitch curve that is linear with 100 at the top and zero at the bottom so you're seeing the full pitch range.)


and a platinum star



When I first started I had a Raptor 30 and looking at all the mechanical stuff on the rotorhead I just had no idea what anything did. It took me a while to get the jist of it all. And then I went way deep into the flybar lengths and paddle weights, dampers and various different types of rotorhead geometry, there's a heck of a lot to it if you really want to know how it all works.
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