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My venture into FBL

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  • #16
    Blue light at step j is not so important, but 6 degrees is. Read the manual a few times. S blue light is more important at the cyclic range part of setup.


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    • #17
      thanks,gunna get some futaba servos tomorrow to replace these Align ones,the horn screw is 3mm nearer the centre of the servo compared to the the Align 510's so enabling to use same geometry but proper 15.5mm ball from screw.

      Couldnt resist a quick hover at the back of the house,wind blowing at about 20-25mph.Thing just sort of sat there with obviously collective control with the wind gusts.
      felt very strange,i was giving it automtic reactive corrective cyclic but after a few moments kinda realised it didnt really need it.
      Tail gyro gain was too high but easily adjusted out via TX.
      Considering its not optimum fbl settings,it wasnt that bad.
      It would have needed quite major cyclic control in the strong wind.
      It will take some getting used to for sure:)

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      • #18
        well cut more holes in the servo arms and got the blue lite at 6 degrees.so thankfully dont need some more servos.
        tested it this afto at the field,only did slowish smooth circuits as its a new heli and still getting the feel.
        Very stable with the fbl,easily as stable as my K3D which is flybar(at the mo'!!)
        the slow stuff round the field was much easier than before flybar,impressed so far.Batts came down cooler and got a bit extra flight time which is always a bonus..

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        • #19
          Hi,just picked up a JRdsx9 TX,been flying my Atom on a DX7 tx,do i just mirror the DX7 settings on the JR TX on the Atom?
          It worked well on my mcpx and msr settings.
          Flying a beastx on the Atom..

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          • #20
            It doesn't [B]have[/B] to be blue. Blue just indicates you are using the ideal resolution of the servo (more travel = more points to fine adjust the movement. Eighths instead of quarters as a crude example). It is imperative that you dial it to exactly 6 degs at this step, even if you're on purple or even red. Mine is on the purple light on my 90. As said, move in a hole or even drill new ones; just be careful to avoid binding.
            Harry

            Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
            Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
            SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


            And a pillow for the doghouse...

            Powered by Futaba 18SZ

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            • #21
              Whoops, didn't see the earlier posts, nor did I notice the age of this thread lol
              Harry

              Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
              Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
              SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


              And a pillow for the doghouse...

              Powered by Futaba 18SZ

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              • #22
                Ok,lol.
                sussed it anyway,i mirrored the settings on the JR tx from the DX7,ie reverse etc,and it seems to work ok,without resetting it all up again on the Beastx.Only thing i have done is redo the rudder travel end point in setup E.It seemed way to much travel on the new JR TX.
                I couldnt sus out the gyro sensitivety with the gyro gain lead plugged into AUX2 on the AR7000 so kept it in the Gain socket and adjusted end points on the gain channel on the JR TX.
                Test fly it in a while.

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