Build Questions

[v58fuy]

Can anybody tell me regarding the upper mixing arms, whether you went with the manual i.e. one ball on outer hole, one on inner hole - or with Matt's setup of both balls on inner holes?

If you've flown with both setup's what's the difference in effect?

David

[ROSSCO]

Hi David,

I went with Matt Boto's suggested mixing arm setup with both balls on the inner holes of the mixing arm.

The cyclics are fast and pitch is responsive with this setup, i was intending on trying other mixing options but i like this setup so much i have decided to leave it the way it is.

[v58fuy]

Guys,

Build going very well, when work doesn't get in the way (the completed head is a work of art).

With regards to the tail boom, when you come to adjust the belt tension do you, lock the boom in the tail case and slide in/out of the frame, or lock in the frame and slide tail case in/out.

There appears to be more room for adjustment at the tail case, but always adjusted previous belt drives by pulling boom out of the frames.

Also, I am going to install the alternative starlock washer on the pitch slider, do these type still require glueing?

David

[jamiem]

Tail case end Line up the boom with the edge of the front boom clamp and tighten, then use the tailbox to tighten the belt tension.

I'd still glue the washer

[v58fuy]

Thanks.

David

[ROSSCO]

Hi David,

As Jamie advised, line the boom edge with the front boom clamp in the main frames and tighten, then adjust belt tension with the tail box assembly.

If you are using a decent after market star lock washer (See previous post) then it is not necessary to glue the locking ring in place, but you could if you wish. I use these the better aftermarket star lock washers and have never had one come off, in fact getting them off is a job and a half!! The aftermarket star lock washers are much much better than the standard one and the wash will actually dig into the brass slider.

[v58fuy]

Guys,

Work has been a real pain lately, but I have built up all the tail assembly and just put the boom on heli - man are you sure this thing doesn't swing 690mm's !!!!

Anyway looking for a Spektrum wizard (matched with AR7100R).

I am using a Solid G gyro, so no need for a switch for HH/normal, as only HH on this gyro.

My question, can I setup the radio in such a way that i have two different rpm's, one in IDL1 and one in IDL2, and a switch which turns the limiter off altogether - if so how do I do it?

David

[jamiem]

Not sure wether you can switch the limiter off entirely, but here's how mine is setup.

Ive set up a normal throttle curve with a lowish headspeed. This is way below the lower limit i have set, so thats 1 headspeed. Then I have a switch that switches between 2 limits. One which is meant to be around 1950rpm, and the other 2150. To use these, i switch to Idle2 which is a flatline 100% so that the limiter is doing its thing permanently. The headspeeds arent this yet, i need to tach it to get the exact figures right. So essentially I have 3 headspeeds available, works a treat too

I think my switch is on the gear channel, it says in the manual which one will be assigned for this.

[ROSSCO]

Hi David,

I have the AR7100R with the SolidG on my Aurora and have the transmitter settings set so that i control the gyro from the gyro screen and the Gov from the ATV acreen on the DX7, for some reason with my N5 which is using the AR7100R and Futaba GY520 the GY520 does not like the setup like this so where it tells you in the manual to switch the AUX2 to GYRO and GEAR to AUX2 i have set it to AUX2 to AUX2 and GEAR to GEAR and it works a treat.

The way this is setup on a DX7 gives you a 2 position switch and i am unsure if it is possible to have this on the flight mode switch so that this will give you a different speed in each flight mode. I know this is possible on a DSX9 etc as you can assign how you want tht governor to be controlled i.e Single Switch/Flight mode switch etc.. but don't think it is possible on a DX7.

On my DX7 i initially have it on a two position switch and have one of these as an off for the governor (0%) so that i can run in the engine un-govened and then have a setting on the other side of the switch for a low headspeed so that it does'nt overspeed the engine initially ans then slowly crank up the ATV as the engine breaks in untill i reach my desired headspeed.

Once everything is dialled in i will run two headspeeds, although in most cases i very rarely switch between them so i could just have a single headpseed setting for the governor and an off setting (0%).

[v58fuy]

Rossco,

That's I what I really wanted, a way to turn it off until my new engine is broken in.

Because I'm using the Sold G and want to use the Gyro menu, should I set the initial parameters to AUX2 to GYRO and GEAR to AUX2 ?

David

P.S. - Has anyone seen the latest build updates on Matt's site? I've checked my head button screw and it's no where near the head spacer, so am leaving mine in.

I to had thought about the grub screws on the elevator, because in my opinion the contact patch is very hit and miss with 3mm.

Why would you want to locktite the one way sleeve to the main shaft? How on earth would you firstly do it, and secondly get it apart again.

[v58fuy]

When it comes to paddles I was going to run Align carbon - but should they be white or black, think Matt is running whites as they are slightly heavier?

Also was going to use a set of Radix 600mm Non SB blades but can't find the spacers for them (any ideas) but may now look at some 610mm blades - any suggestions?

David

[ROSSCO]

Hi David,

With the SolidG and the DX7, i have the AUX2 set to GYRO and GEAR to AUX2 on my Aurora and it seems to work fine adjusting the gain through the GYRO screen. The Governor seetings are then adjusted through the Travel Adjust Screen.

It is just the FutabaGY520 on my N5 that does'nt like to be set this way for some reason, i may try the SoldG set the same way i have the GY520 set as i find it easier.

I use the Align 600 size white carbon paddles on mine and it is very quick on cyclic yet still smooth and precise, not tried the black align ones but i find the white ones to be really good.

As far as i know the Radix 600's should come with spacers, but if they don't you can get universal blade spacers:
Fast Lad Performance

I have the Radix 600SB's on mine and coupled with the Align White paddles gives a very good setup, i really like the machine with this setup suits the N5 really well.

Hopefully if/when Curtis does some 620 series blades i may try some of them but i really like the N5 with Radix 600SB's.

[v58fuy]

Rossco,

Thanks mate for all the help.

My Radix Non-SB came off another heli which used it's own spacers, so the Curtis ones were lost in the bin at the time.

I have gone with white Align paddles, and radio setup as advised - cheers.

David

[v58fuy]

Guys,

Is there a god out there? Heli almost ready to fly, but found out the flying field is out of action all weekend due to an event, argh!!!

Anyway, quick question.

Balls on inner holes on upper mixing arms, pitch set to +12/-12, cyclic set to +7/-7 ended up with swash mixes of 50%, 50%, 45% - but have had to lower the swash by a few millimetres to prevent binding between the lower mixing arms rods hitting the swash, then corrected the other links to compensate.

Is this a similar story to yours?

David

[ROSSCO]

Hi David,

That's a bit of a kick in the teeth ain't it!! ... Gutted for ya mate!

I have my upper mixing arms set with both the balls on the inner positions on both sides, and i have the Ail/Ele swash mixing set to 60% and the Pitch mixing set to 48%. I also have all the linkages set as standard in the manual. I have not noticed any binding in the rods and swashplate.

I set the linkages with a vernier gauge and the lengths given in the manual are bang on. Although this may vary with different servos and output arms. On my N5 i used Futaba BLS451's on cyclic and the 4 star output arms.