new synergy 50 lives

[moonmanflyer]

Thanks for your response. Sorry but I'm going to pick your brain some more. I have a set of BLS451 set aside. Do you think they'd have enough torque both for the stock flybarred and / or flybarless configuration? Furthermore, I will be running either an Outrage 3600 (160g) or 2500 (110g) RX pack. If either are two long, will using them at an angle (where you have your RX & ATG) still have good CG?

Thanks again,
puma1824

I have bls451's in my trex700 and were in my N9 before that and are perfect so should be plenty for the N5

[jamiem]

i am genuinely excited about this machine, gonna start gathering new gear for it so im ready when it arrives

[The Liquid King]

I am also keen to try one out as soon as it appears on the shelves, I dont care too much about being the first to fly at club or the first to front up with one in kit form, I think we can safely say the repair cost will be around that of the Trex 700, and the quality of the parts should be much improved, and I expect it to be the best 50 size nitro 3d heli available, time will tell

[raptorheli2]

i disagree, i think you can very safely say it won't be around trex 700 money to repair. you can get 2 main gears for 12 quid for example. that one in synergy n5 pics looks like a cnc delrin job which means££££. i still think vibe 50 is the target price.

cheers

[The Liquid King]

More than a 700 so for anyone thinking of changing over from their 600 pro it is not a smart move, still I will give one a try in due course,

If the gear is better quality then there is less chance of it stripping in a crash?

[Dodger]

Kit and parts pricing are unknown at this stage. However, you have to bear in mind that when the N9 was released the parts were keenly priced against existing 90 sized models of that era (Min Air, JR, even Raptor). Align have certainly brought costs down since then and continued the trend in affordable helicopters.

However, there is a big difference between cost and value, and it is great to see so much interest in the N5. The fact of the matter is that the N5 has been designed for high performance and durability. It is not an entry level machine, and neither will it be a Japanese 'Jewel' with esoteric pricing to match.

[Andy from Sandy]

What you had better hope for is the crown gear that drives the tail is better than on the N9. A guy at the club doing piro reversals has bust one a week for the last 3 outings. At £20 a go that is not good.

EDIT: So this one is belt drive and it isn't going to happen, okay.

[jamiem]

it doesnt have either a crown gear or a torque tube single stage belt drive tail....

[Stuart]

No crown gear its belt driven tail so kiss good bye to that problem....

[HiroboFreak]

What you had better hope for is the crown gear that drives the tail is better than on the N9. A guy at the club doing piro reversals has bust one a week for the last 3 outings. At £20 a go that is not good.

EDIT: So this one is belt drive and it isn't going to happen, okay.

That's why delays in the gyro are recommended for the N9.
If delays are set along with correct mesh you won't have a problem.

If you're using the 770, you're screwed! You'll smash crown/tail gears all day if you're hard on the tail.

[00boto]

Guys,

If you are stripping crown gears in flight, something is wrong. Make sure you set your crown to pinion mesh tight for the first few flights. There should be zero lash, I've seen some N9's take 2 shims under the hub and others take only one. Either way, the mesh should be tight with new gears. Also make sure your collar is not slipping, its very rare that I recommend aftermarket parts but a pinch collar is absolutely needed on the main shaft. You will find the N5 has incorporated the pinch collars instead of the set screw collars. Someone also mentioned delays in the gyro, this is also important due to the rigid torque drive system on the N9, 4.66:1 gear ratio, and thick air foil agressive 105mm SAB tail blades.
On one of my trips to Hong Kong, I visited a field where the pilots were stocking crown gears in their field boxes! When they saw me fly my machine, they asked how I get away with such violent reversals and stops. I looked at their machines and found that all of them were improperly meshed. We fixed every single on of them that day and everyone was very please they could fly without worries.
One more thing, tail bevel gears.... On the N9 these gears must also be meshed tight from the start. If they are meshed with any lash at all, they will not last. Mesh them tight and let them break in. HiroboFreak also has a good point, the 770 is very hard on stops... be careful with this gyro.

Hope that helps guys, just trying to pass along what has made my N9's virtually bullet prooof.

Sincerely,

Matt

[anjki]

00boto
thanks for your advice on the set up of the crown gear mesh,unfortunatly it is me who evo andy is refering to,with the problems of crown gear striping.
i run 2 synergys of both identical setups,sparton gyros(stock settings).
model 1,i can beat on all day long and have never had a crown gear go.
model 2,i set mesh as you discribe and spend a few flights letting it settle in before re setting the mesh and working the model harder.
on model 2 i am now fitting crown gear number 5.after number 3 i have replaced mainshaft bearing blocks,crown gear hub,complete transmission out put assembly and i still cannot stop this model from breaking crown gears.

my question is have you ever had to mess around with the tail boom clamp holes in the frames to get a better mesh? i am running out of ideas now so any advise would be most apreciated.my flying style does give the tail alot of abuse,lots of piros and reversals so i am asking alot from the model but i do no that it should take anything that i can throw at it!

thanks
andy k