one Girl's Rave ENV Build or "pink my Rave"

[NEAGRON]

Good Morning Rachel,
Remember your "Toy Boy",is not far away and will be there for you and the rest of us, as there support is the bests you know probabley saving up for a trip to USA to meat Mr Brian.

The Very Best,

Martin.

P/S remember Mark Christy,is Curtis man over hear.

[NEAGRON]

Hi last bit to this "Toy Boy", waiting for you accorrding to post on H/F check out,may be you can help out with testing dont no if HELIS come into equation.

Marty.

[darryl]

I think Darryl would be a great name for a Rave 90... Even better would be Darryl's lol

[daren]

Just for you

[rachel]

Just for you

nice but will be nicer in Pink lol x rachel

[rachel]

tonights update

Hi everyone who may read this
I actually got started tonight and using the instruction manual it all starts with the mainshaft bearings which are suported in plastic blocks It quickly becomes apparent that the rave is like quite a few of the JR helis I have seen / built in that there is a fair bit of plastic. This doest bother me as plactic is fine used in the right places but a trex ??? LE this kit isn't.

The clutch stack is nice and supported above and below the gear with a nice support block thingy. It is also adjustable for mesh / alignment.

I have gone for 140 degree ccpm but does anyone have any ideas if the total G will support this ?

I am not sure if I can say who or what helped out today, so at this stage I won't say much,but ,....... In my quest to source the flybarless bits and bobs two outstanding people helped out and supplied the bits for Free !!!
I somtimes am humbled by the souls within this hobby Thank you you know who you are !!!!

's all up early in the morning more building to do , X Rachel

[pgkevet]

Well done!

We all get suckered into the blingy thingy but there's nothing inherently wrong with the right plastics.. can be stronger and less likely to get bent than some alloys..a bit like g10 apparently being better at vibration absorption than carbon.

The pantera takes the engineering plastics to the ultimate to build a strong, cheap crashable heli.. I mean if you take a modern PC printer and drop it then the platuc cases usually sruvive well..whereas a metal case would be dinged like the front wing of a lady driver's car

[dav20043]

H

I have gone for 140 degree ccpm but does anyone have any ideas if the total G will support this ?

Rachel

It does but they recommend 120 i have tried both and haven't noticed much difference.

[Ade_Law]

140 is a bit old hat now. it was all down to the left right servos being closer to the mainshaft front/rear than the front servo.

this meant that for elevator movements the front servo moves further than the rear servos. this would give a small collective wobble with fast elevator movements.

the downside is the load on the servos isnt as evenly spread.

modern servos are a lot quicker and a lot more powerful so it really doesnt make much difference.

Ade

[rachel]

An interesting update from Mark Christy


I had a quick read through your bloggy thingy and a few pointers for you..


1) There's no issue at all saying where the parts came from. One of the great things about flying for CYE is that they are all about the hobby and not celebrity. They want their pilots to help others out whether they use CYE equipment or not.. it's a really nice company to fly for with good morals.


2) 120/140 CCPM for the majority of us it doesn't make any difference at all. Back in the day when the software in the transmitters wasn't so good Curtis invented 140 to equalise the distance between the mainshaft and the servo arms. Without doing this you got a collective ripple on the swashplate when moving the elevator stick. However as servos have improved and the software in the transmitters too this can mostly be tuned out without going for 140. The downside of 140 is that you now have two servos on one side of the swashplate using the same leverage distance as one servo on the other side. So under heavy loads the two servos will keep up better than the one. Curtis recommends that for a flybar model you run 140 but for flybarless (where the loads are higher on the servos) to run 120. However for the majority of us pilots the difference is so small that we can live with either setup.


3) The lack of shiny metal bits.. there is a very good reason for this. Curtis not only being a world champion F3C and 3D pilot is also a fully qualified mechanical engineer. Therefore he knows what materials to use where and when. A number of machines (Align especially) are designed by pilots first and foremost and not proper engineers.. they also get sucked into marketing and glitz which a proper engineer never is. For example the reason the bearing blocks are plastic on the ENV is because that is the best material for a bearing block. So long as the plastic is hard wearing it gives the bearing a much easier life and therefore greater longevity. An engineer will appreciate this but a marketing person wouldn't Curtis has stated that the aim with the ENV is to get people flying with the least amount of issues. Everything has been designed to just work and minimise vibrations. Another example is the boom and boom stays. People complain that they are metal rather than carbon.. again the reason is because metal is the best material for the job. Although carbon would be lighter it also flex's more which means you have to run a lower gyro gain.. So rest assured that there are very good reasons for the way things are on it which you'll begin to appreciate the more you fly it


Any questions or problems with the build or setup just shoot me an email.. but I think you'll find Brian did an excellent job on the manual and there shouldn't be much left to the imagination!


Cheers


Mark

The comments on plastic verses metal are my sentiments exactly and a huge
THANK YOU to Mark Christy who has given me the flybarless parts for free, I realise how lucky I am to have got back in to a hobby with such wonderfull people.

Happy flying all

's Rachel

[rachel]

todays update and a change of plans maybe,......

OK more has been done & I am really starting to enjoy the build now.
Following another email and comments ref 140 ccpm vs 120ccpm I am going for 120 degree ccpm I know typical girl they never stick to a plan etc etc,...

Also a Biggie ,........ I may carry out the testflights as a flybared head ,.. again a recomendation from Mark Christy (pete's son ?) Thanks for pointing the relationship out to me Sheryl sometimes i am sooooo stupid

I am about 2 hours in to the build now and really liking what i see this model it real quality and lateral thinking,

a tank you can get in & out without a visit to boots for KY gel ,

a starter hex with a clever threaded shaft that makes it sooo simple to replace a stripped hex start without removing the engine to hold the shaft up.


And My favorite a tail linkage belcrank set out of the back of the frames designed just so you can adjust the linkage without trying to get between the frames and breaking a nail Top job Curtis etc.

I will be fitting the powerplant tonight a secondhand OS91 HZ thats come all the way from one of the "Stainburn Massive" AYE ! should be well run in then

The frames are quite widely spaced and awsomly ridid so this hel should be tough and on the subject of tough the frames have a detachable front section so any arrivals of an unplaned nature should hopfulle require only the relaceable front section legs & not the whole frame , again nice design.

Any comments and or sugestions please feel free to post then at least i Know someone reads this rubbish !!!!

's for now xxxxxxxxxx Rachel

[Paulice]

Looking good so far, It's very well designed heli.
Keep us posted on your build.

[pgkevet]

Any comments and or sugestions please feel free to post then at least i Know someone reads this rubbish !!!!

a tank you can get in & out without a visit to boots for KY gel ,

Was taking the tank out that exciting!?

And My favorite a tail linkage belcrank set out of the back of the frames designed just so you can adjust the linkage without trying to get between the frames and breaking a nail
The frames are quite widely spaced and awsomly ridid so this hel should be tough and on the subject of tough the frames have a detachable front section so any arrivals of an unplaned nature should hopfulle require only the relaceable front section legs & not the whole frame , again nice design.

A bit of simple plaigerism that makes sense on the tail crank..but interesting that he's spaced the frames out when everyone was moving towards as narrow a frame as possible.

[Tim Procter]

Looking good Rachel.

Looking at picture 3 (the elevator cross shaft) has quite a bit of blue loctite surrounding the bearing.

Be sure to clean that up before it sets the bearing tight.

[rachel]

Looking good Rachel.

Looking at picture 3 (the elevator cross shaft) has quite a bit of blue loctite surrounding the bearing.

Be sure to clean that up before it sets the bearing tight.

thanks will do