Protos Finally gets to fly.

[woody]

Yes I will Andy. I just need to decide which speed controller to get.

[Leebert]

I've just bought one and shall be building it this week.

You kept that one quiet!!

Look forward to build pics and a flight review

[woody]

I have to keep it quiet as I have too many helis already!

[Tean]

'Twas a dark n breezy afternoon today, but we got some video of my Protos. This flight is using a three year old 5s2p Prolite pack (10C) which struggles a bit with Tictocs. We'll do a 6s vid on a brighter day.

[ame="http://www.vimeo.com/1460084"]Tean-Protos-5s2p Prolite on Vimeo[/ame]

Woody, in reply to your PM, for the Hitec 5245s my servo pushrods have 27.5mm of exposed flesh between the links, so pretty much as per the manual for 9650s. I'm using the second hole from the end on the metal servo arms.

[Stuart]

'Twas a dark n breezy afternoon today, but we got some video of my Protos. This flight is using a three year old 5s2p Prolite pack (10C) which struggles a bit with Tictocs. We'll do a 6s vid on a brighter day.

http://www.vimeo.com/1460084

Woody, in reply to your PM, for the Hitec 5245s my servo pushrods have 27.5mm of exposed flesh between the links, so pretty much as per the manual for 9650s. I'm using the second hole from the end on the metal servo arms.

You've listed it as a private vid

[Tean]

Ooops. Sorted now. Thanks.

[woody]

A couple of photos of my Protos build so far. Generally it has been very enjoyable and the instructions have been easy to follow.

[Pipistrelli]

Love the canopy, whether its plastic or glass!

Looks better than the Rex 500 IMO. However, I do prefer the strength of carbon frames rather than loaded plastic.

What are spares cost like, as cheap as Align, by any chance?

[Tean]

All the spares are listed at RealRaptors or (in Euros) at msheli.com, so you can judge the prices for yourself. You can also download the manual.

A couple of building tips:

Quite a lot of the control linkages, ball links etc are rather tight. Don't leave them like this in the asumption that they will free up. In particular, the swash drive links (MSH50037) and tail ball links (MSH50094) must be free moving or there is a possibility that the pivot pins will work their way out. The tail lever screws (MSH 50100) will probably need their ends filing a bit to stop the tail linkage binding.
Corrado's link sizing tutorial video here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...12#post9825105

When assembling the tail pitch slider, it's very easy to screw the crosspiece (MSH50093) onto the brass sleeve (MSH50061) squint, which will screw up the tail geometry. Use the tail shaft with a turn of insulating tape on it as a jig to keep it aligned as it screws on.

[woody]

I'm using the second hole from the end on the metal servo arms.

Hi Andy/Thomas

I've done the same as above and the swash mix on my DX7 is 39% to get +/- 11 pitch. Does that sound right?

Thanks

[Bigbellypopper]

Sue

I think you will find that Thomas has already sold his....

Cheers
Russ

[Tean]

Swash mix sounds about right. I've got -60 on the cyclics and +40 on the collective.

[woody]

R.I.P Protos

I must have the shortest lived heli there is. It had a real awesome maiden flight (not flown by me ), it looked great but then I got hold of it, oops, and now its a right off. I just lost orientation of it somehow, I wasnt even trying to do anything in particular but now its just a bag of bits.

[Smoothound]

Sue

I think you will find that Thomas has already sold his....

Cheers
Russ

Just for a change

[Leebert]

I must have the shortest lived heli there is. It had a real awesome maiden flight (not flown by me ), it looked great but then I got hold of it, oops, and now its a right off. I just lost orientation of it somehow, I wasnt even trying to do anything in particular but now its just a bag of bits.

Arrgghh!

Noooooo!

Say it's not true Sue

Really sorry to hear that. It's one thing to put in your pride and joy but quite another to do it on your first flight

Is it really a write off?