Minicopter DIABOLO build thread

[Rctintin]

The Kosmic ESC is a very robust unit that you have to bolt the wires to. As mentioned earlier in the build thread, the Heli comes with a option of a Kosmic mounting kit, and this includes the brass spacers used to route the motor wires back over the top of the unit. With the power leads, EC5's were used, and a link wire added so no need for a Y lead.

[Ross Northcott]

No amount of pics can do this build justice, the attention to detail is superb, I'm truly greatful to rob for the amount of effect and to do all this in the most busiest time of year with his work commitments.
Thank you Rob.

[Geek]

this has been one of the best ever build threads . Great detail and write up Rob.

I second that
Boggy Gold star isn't enough time for a Platinum one?

[heathy]

I don't think mincopter themselves could have done such a job, 1st class in every way.....well apart from the spekky stuff, Rob can't be blamed for that.

[Ross Northcott]

Defo a platinum star Ron, maybe rob could let us know how many hours he has spent on this build, and all for absolute no money, guys like this is what make this hobby great, and defo one of the truly good guys .

[Rctintin]

Just a couple of things during the build that I either changed, or just a few build comments to help other newer builders.

Firstly, I was not happy with just the standard washers used to spread the load on the motor mount. The design that is employed my Jan Henseleit is to use large thick washers to help spread the load on the carbon frames, so I ended up using Radix tail blade spacer washers for this job.



With the boom supports and the tail pushrod, all the ends were glued with JB Weld. I have never had JB Weld come loose, but do be sure to 'key' the carbon rod with emery cloth/sand paper, and also inside the tube on the pushrod with a rat tail needle file. To stop the carbon pushrod from splitting under load, I always add a support sleeve made from a 4mm bullet connector cut down so it is just a tube.


As mentioned, I really did not like the way the servo grommets squashed out with the M3 washers, so I used carbon plates from a source that will remain nameless (!!) to spread the load. This was a much better job.

[Boggy]

My first ever and easiest desicion

Rob add a platinum star to your signature! maybe a photo of yourself? you are afterall one!

these babies are rare and staying that way

[Rctintin]

Defo a platinum star Ron, maybe rob could let us know how many hours he has spent on this build, and all for absolute no money, guys like this is what make this hobby great, and defo one of the truly good guys .

Flattered!! Thanks guy.

It was a real privilege to be asked to build this heli, and with the huge pressure I am under at this time of year running my own business as a heating and gas engineer often doing 10-14 hr days, 6 days a week,, I actually found it a huge release to go to my build room (attic conversion) and go and do 2-3 hrs heli building even if it was gone midnight when I started!!

At a guess, it's over 30hrs work, and I loved every second!

[heathy]

My first ever and easiest desicion

Rob add a platinum star to your signature! maybe a photo of yourself? you are afterall one!

these babies are rare and staying that way

Well deserved, good job Rob.

[Rctintin]

Following on from another thread on this forum, all bolts were degreased with this



And this is what comes off just 4 bolts



When setting up a heli, I use a RC Logger 2 digital pitch gauge, and a main blade stub. This was a radix 710 blade from a crash that was cut to only about 4" long, and acts as a great way of holding the pitch gauge in place. With the Diabolo, like the TDR, they supply a delrin spacer to place on top of the top bearing support and under the swash. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of it in place on the build, but it is used to get zero pitch and is 12mm thick. Using the V-Bar setup program, you use the centre point sliders to drop each servo until it touches this disc, and making sure the servo is not stalled. Have a look to be sure the servo to swash pitch links are the right length now, so that the servo arms are at 90deg to the links. Then I use the pitch gauge to get zero pitch on the blade grip by adjusting the LH/RH thread turn buckle. Once this first grip it set perfectly at zero, I insert 2x 5mm silver steel rods 300mm long half way down through the blade bolt holes. Adjust the other grip now untill the 2 bars are perfectly vertical with each other.

[Rctintin]

I have had a few PM's asking advise on builds since I started this thread, so here is how I balance blades. Firstly, I find the CofG with my balancer, and mark the blade where it is. Then do the next blade, and line up each blade at the CofG point. Look to see if the bolt holes line up, and in this instant, the Spin Blades Matte Blacks lined up perfectly. Next I put both blades onto the balancer, and one blade was a touch heavier than the other. I then used electrical tape on the CofG point to add weight to the lighter blade. Dont be tempted to add it at the end of the blade, this will throw the CofG out.

[Rctintin]

To finish this build thread, I have a bunch more photo's of this beautiful helicopter. It was a pleasure to build it, a pleasure to maiden it, and a pleasure to watch Ross's face when it appeared from the back of my car today, and to see him flying it.

[jimheli]

nice neat work on the electrics rob ,as the rest of the heli well done .

[GIR8]

Great job Rob. There is only one problem though I want one you buggers. lol

[Jamin_00]

Cracking job

One thing, cover them 3 wires where they mount to the ESC, its quite important

Even if you use the same loom tape as you did on the batt terminals.