taming the blade 400

[dam74]

Thats good then, i foun a sticker saying ha909x in the battery bit not sure if thats what they mean.

Basically when i stick it into fmode its like someone pulled the right stick backwards (elevator i think).

Sounds very odd the only thing I know that are fmode 0/1 configurable are throttle curve, pitch curve and revo mix. There might be others but I haven't found them yet and somebody else might be able to help out here. I'm sure it also differs on the more advanced TXes aswell.

Going off topic here but just read about revo mixing and it has nothing to do with what it happening with you. It's to do with adjusting tail rotation at high and low end of stick which I could see an advantage back in the days of flying the tail (pre-gyros or heading hold). Which means you would of setup the tail not to rotate at hover, but as power changed the rotation would of picked up so a mixing value at high and low of stick would of created a curve to compensate for this. I doubt it would of stopped all rotation but it would of required less compensation than without. From what I understand you don't need revo mixing anymore with heading hold/lock gyros.

FredTed40X, could you do a test. I assume you have no blades attached and you could even set all your throttle curves to 0% along all of the left stick positions so that the motor doesn't spool up or just put it into FMode0 and Throttle Hold (TH). Go to low stick, all three servos should operate in the same direction and drive the swash upwards (assuming the swash operation is identical to the Blade400 seeing everything else is). Then to midstick and finally high stick, which should be at the bottom of the swash travel heading towards the retaining collar. If the servos are operating out of unison then you need to setup your REVERSE settings and your SWASH MIX so that it operates as follows.

Looking from rear:

left stick
low - swash high
high - swash low

right stick
left - swash left edge down
right - swash right edge down
forward - swash leading edge down
back - swash leading edge up

I mean I might be clutching at straws but I noticed you said the other day that you installed a new RX so that you could use the DX6i so if the settings aren't right then when you go into FMode1 it might have a pitch curve that caused the swash to move.

I'm probably going to travel into Portsmouth today to go to Maplins, if you're unsure just ask somebody to help. Just don't ask me as I'll probably do it wrong

On another note I love the Storm 3D manual, numbered exploded diagram straight from the Blade400 manual but with no page with the numbers/description on them. Good game!

[dam74]

Here are some good links if you dont have them already:

Blade 400 Plug N Play Manual (different from RTF, has all detailed setup instructions such as pushrod lengths, TX setup, etc)
http://www.slyster.com/heli/pnpman.pdf

Storm 3D Manual (please note that pushrod lengths are different to the Blade 400 so don't use the Blade 400 lengths to setup your Storm 3D)
http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.u...s/6600090b.pdf

Why Eflite/HH couldn't of included all of that info in the RTF manual aswell as it's all relevant.


Boggy, just for your info I'm using a subtrim of aileron left 50, elevator up 40. The PNP manuals clearly state if you can't get the horn to be perfectly level then subtrim can be used. It has nothing to do with mechanical setup it just comes down to inconsistancies in manufacturing. I expect I could dismantle the Eflite DS75 servos and reposition the servo gears until I get perfect centering of the horn but am I going to go to that much trouble? On another note after using those pushrod measurements I have found that I require no travel adjust to have the swash level through out travel.

[fredted40x]

thanks dam, after a bit of playing and almost throwing the twisters manual away i have managed to get it right (i think) .

Almost 99% of the settings are wrong in the twisters manual, not sure if thats because the dx7 is completely different or they are just wrong but i used the b400 settings and its perfect (again, i think). Also the kind people who made the twister coppied the b400 diagram but changed the number on it so you cant use the numbers with the b400 list.

Im going to print of the blade 400's manual tom as its alot better.

[dam74]

What looks perfect might not necesarily be perfect when you attempt to hover

Just took the Blade400 with factory set pushrods as per the manual, servo centers eyed and a swash plate levelled using an allen key. After taking it down to the local park it was no way going to fly level into or with the wind. Adjusted the subtrims until it felt fairly stable and have flown two packs from it since. Going to remove the head off of it over the next week to take a look at the level in relation to an allen key.

At midstick the swash should be level, washout arms should be horizontal and the ball links should be level with the pivot point of the arms that join the swash.
You should also have a level flybar cage and zero pitch at this point.
Tools required to check all of this are a swash leveller for 5mm shafts or an allen key and a pitch gauge to suit 400/450 class. From what I can remember of the B400 manual the DX6i settings differed from DX7. Lucky git, want to upgrade to the DX7 as I do plan on getting a nitro at some stage and the extra channel would be good for the gov.

[fredted40x]

Just trying to add some weight onto the flybar and cant get the paddles off. I think the screw had thread lock on it, but got that out finally but now i cant get the paddle off. Is there a way of doing it without wrecking the flybar?

Cheers

[dam74]

Sounds odd. I know I was going to add a dab of epoxy to my blade 400 paddles as the threads aren't the best when you've done them up a few times. Epoxy though should be removeable. I wonder if the previous owner has CA'ed them?

[Boggy]

just unscrew it! its decieving the metal weight is actually just slid on to the flybar the paddle is screwed onto that then the whole thing is screwed onto the flybar

[RotaryOne]

If I remember properly, given that there is a lug screw to hold it to the flybar, once that is removed the paddle should just slip off. The Align ones screw on, but try screwing off the B400 paddle anyway. It may need a twiddle or two to loosen it a bit.

[dam74]

Just trying to add some weight onto the flybar and cant get the paddles off. I think the screw had thread lock on it, but got that out finally but now i cant get the paddle off. Is there a way of doing it without wrecking the flybar?

Cheers

I think I know what the problem is Fred! Assuming that the Storm is identical to the Blade, you need to unscrew the metal weight (grub screw was screwed into it) from the flybar paddle. Once undone it will slide along the flybar and you can undo the paddles.

If you're trying to undo the paddles with the weight still attached then that is the problem!

[fredted40x]

Thought i was doing it right.

Thanks, have finally got them off one side came of easily apart from the screw which almost rounded, and the other was a pain, had to get the pliers out to get the weight off. Have now put it all back together and replaced the almost rounded screw.

[longdog67]

Going to try the collets myself, I'm really struggling with this heli, I can fly it just fine on Pheonix & fly my CX2 with no probs, but this is just so unstable.
Also, what do the damper O rings do? I see on this forum that fitting different ones can help.

[Boggy]

tbh damper o rings dont make much difference when your just learning. two collets on each side will tame it down considerably also if you can get a pair and fit align trex 8grm paddles

[RotaryOne]

As Boggy has already said make sure you have the Trex 500 paddles on as well as the collets. The more O rings on the feathering spindle the sharper the response, so you don't want more than the two mentioned. After that it is probably settings on the Tx, particularly the exponential. When I started I was using 20%. When setup the B400 is a very stable little machine when it is out of ground effect, providing there is no wind around. The other thing is training legs; it will be less stable and responsive with those on.

Talking about the settings which affect responsiveness there is something of a contradiction in how these are set up for learners. Making the machine less responsive is often good for learners because it is, in a way, less twitchy. But the downside is that there tends to be more of a control response lag (CRL) so the machine, effectively, is not responding as immediately as one would like to the controls and this can result in a wallowing effect.

Nigel

[ninjagaiden]

Boggy,

Just found this thread, which is a great boost for me whose Blade 400 has been sat in its box whilst I crash its virtual version hubdres of times in phoenix.

Assuming you start completely stock (can't get more stock than still in the box) which flybar,paddles and collets would you use currently?

Cheers!

N

[RotaryOne]

Boggy,

Just found this thread, which is a great boost for me whose Blade 400 has been sat in its box whilst I crash its virtual version hubdres of times in phoenix.

Assuming you start completely stock (can't get more stock than still in the box) which flybar,paddles and collets would you use currently?

Cheers!

N

Taking up on this, if I may. First thing is the B400 on Phoenix is much to sensitive to fly, in my opinion, let alone learn on. Better to go to one of the larger scale machines, for example I use the MD500 turbine. A bit high on its stilts so you have to be careful about roll-over on take off or landing. But once you are over that you are on your way.

Otherwise, I suggest as per previous post. T-Rex 500 paddles and single collects will make it much more manageable. For the number of o rings, of course, read shims.

Then just persevere and persevere until you cease crashing - that was about six months for me.

Nigel