taming the blade 400

[Aidi]

I only had the one flight with it after we did the tracking... but yeah initial handling was good. If its calm tomrrow, ill take it up the field behind my place and run a couple of batts through it. But i would say its definatly an upgrade which everyone should consider as they become more confident with the 400.

Rgds
Aidi

[Boggy]

with the trex flybar conversion i have now ground (dremel)two small flats into the flybar to match the 400s as i found it turned in the carrier

[boz]

Hi boggy like you know i have put your seeting in the tx and now i have fitted some collets to the flybar but can you go though the expo setting with me

[Boggy]

boz yes certainly but ive just got in from the pub and im pished





quick edit now ive got headache!!

[Boggy]

in the menu's Boz the next one down from model select is D/R&expo click on that and enter the settings menu.

you will see three things to set aire/elev/rudd. the first number is the switch position (0 or 1) the second is the amount of rate set (100% /etc) the third will probably say INH this is the expo setting. highlight it with the scroll wheel then click on it. you can now set whatever value you wish to try + values make the stick less sensitive in the center. as a rough guide i would start with around +20% and see if you like the feel and adjust it to your own liking from there

[boz]

Thanks again mate you are a star

[max1807]

Hi boys. Instead of the collars I use a pair of additional flybar paddle mount (see the picture) and 20% cyclic expo. The mounts stabilize the Blade enough for me (and not too much). Each mount weighs about 1.7 gr. Anybody knows the weight of a collar?

-----------------------
1) Twister Hawk --> Blue Hawk
2) Blade 400

http://digilander.libero.it/max1807/

[Mojogoes]

Hi boys. Instead of the collars I use a pair of additional flybar paddle mount (see the picture) and 20% cyclic expo. The mounts stabilize the Blade enough for me (and not too much). Each mount weighs about 1.7 gr. Anybody knows the weight of a collar?

-----------------------
1) Twister Hawk --> Blue Hawk
2) Blade 400

http://digilander.libero.it/max1807/

I was going to do this on my TS3D and another way of doing it is to use larger heavyer paddles.......i did this on a B30 i used to have with a 222 body with an all alli head (in those days 200 squid a pop ) worked really well though.

[Boggy]

i dont know the weight of the collets max but at a guess i would say the paddle mounts are marginaly heavier!

as for heavier paddles trex 450 items work perfectly well i think iirc they are 8grms

[boz]

i dont know the weight of the collets max but at a guess i would say the paddle mounts are marginaly heavier!

What do you mean you don't know you know everythink

[pieter]

stable blade

my blade became more stable when i did the following:

got the CG right
sorted the gyro/tail out by zeroing all trims and setting things mechanically
if the tail doesnt drift things will be that much easier and stable
trimmed flight controls

and it works and flies very well , all stock except tail and main blades which are align 315mm.

i found the gyro/tail setup the most influencial in getting the blade stable
but it was alot of trial and error as i havent ever set a gyro/servo up before

and if anyones interested i will explain how i did it
otherwise im that much more confident in take offs and landing/hovering and so on, its much more relaxing aswell

[gramey]

I'd be interested in knowing how to set up the gyro/tail as I've never done one before and I find the constant drifting a pain in the arse as I can't concentrate on going where I want whilst fighting it all the time.

[pieter]

tail/gyro

I'd be interested in knowing how to set up the gyro/tail as I've never done one before and I find the constant drifting a pain in the arse as I can't concentrate on going where I want whilst fighting it all the time.

i have had a few beers so i may rewrite this if it doesnt look correct when i look at it later


first off zero all trims and sub trims
set gyro to 30% [rate]and 70%[hh] im using std blade gyro and servos

zero the servo by plugging it straight into a slot on the rx with that slots trims zeroed, or do it in rate mode [ i think ] , anyways when its zero
put the servo horn on 90 degrees or as close as possible.
then hover in rate mode and heading hold and see which way the nose drifts.
put some trim in and hover again in hh mode until its almost drift free

LAND AND RESET TRIM TO ZERO !

switch everything off! [ reset gyro ] and adjust the pushod length

hover again as before and see how much trim you need to correct it this time

if you need more/less trim than you did before adjust your PUSHROD accordingly and repeat the step over and over until you can hover in HH WITHOUT TRIM.

when you got it you will find that your gyro WILL WORK like they say it should
by the way it took me loads of fiddling to get it spot on but now that i know what and how to do it, it seems really easy

just keep in mind that it can be done and persevere until you get it working
BECAUSE its so much more stable and easier to fly when the tail remains spot on without using trim,
ask if you need anymore help ; )

[chally3]

any idea what size colletts I would need,thank you

[cjcj1949]

i have had a few beers so i may rewrite this if it doesnt look correct when i look at it later


first off zero all trims and sub trims
set gyro to 30% [rate]and 70%[hh] im using std blade gyro and servos

zero the servo by plugging it straight into a slot on the rx with that slots trims zeroed, or do it in rate mode [ i think ] , anyways when its zero
put the servo horn on 90 degrees or as close as possible.
then hover in rate mode and heading hold and see which way the nose drifts.
put some trim in and hover again in hh mode until its almost drift free

LAND AND RESET TRIM TO ZERO !


Chris

switch everything off! [ reset gyro ] and adjust the pushod length

hover again as before and see how much trim you need to correct it this time

if you need more/less trim than you did before adjust your PUSHROD accordingly and repeat the step over and over until you can hover in HH WITHOUT TRIM.

when you got it you will find that your gyro WILL WORK like they say it should
by the way it took me loads of fiddling to get it spot on but now that i know what and how to do it, it seems really easy

just keep in mind that it can be done and persevere until you get it working
BECAUSE its so much more stable and easier to fly when the tail remains spot on without using trim,
ask if you need anymore help ; )

Every gyro is different but they all have temperature effects. It's the temperature in the case that's important. At this time of year it takes a long time to stabilise. With my RCE600 it then takes a few minutes after switch on to be ok, then you get drift after a few minutes flying, due to the gyro warming up. If you then land and reset it's ok. The 401 gyro will tolerate a wider temperature change. Some gyros will accept an off center position as zero rate while others have a fixed reference. Some gyros will work ok in heading hold without the gyro being in the correct position. The RCE600 advises setup with the tail rotor parallel to the boom.

Chris