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130X Owners Guide Must Read, Checklist and General Information
Hi all,
Following the recent launch of the 130X we would like to take an opportunity to provide some feedback from our findings with the new model. And to help out a few issues some users are having. Our in house expert has compiled a complete checklist you should complete for you new 130X. This can help improve the 130X to no end!
We except no responsibility for damage, accidents or anything else that may occur during any repair or tweak, and this should be treated as a guide only.
Check List
1) check tail servo rear retaining nut, most are using a single drop of CA rather than the silicon it comes with.
2) many are putting a length of fuel tube over the over the swash upper links to hold the ball links better
3) use the spare canopy grommets that come with the kit for the 3 lower swash joints, and not the ones supplied already fitted.
4) Balance both main and tail blades
5) tighten main and tail blades just enough to dampen gravity, certainly not floppy loose as horizon suggest
6) tail and cyclic gains may need reducing if slop is left in the linkages
7) may have to undo tail linkage ball link a few turns to help centre tail throws, any tail blow outs are directly related.
8) check boom is fully seated, some are not !
9) use 240 / 320 grit wet and dry to umbrella gear a to help prevent it touching FETs on elev servo, don’t let the dust go into other bearings and servos though
10) replace all bearings especially tail end with Japanese abec 3 huge difference by those who have changed already, i second this as i done it on the mcpx
10a) some are finding that triflow grease in stock bearings is helping too !
11) thread lock both feather shafts
12) check tail hub is 90degs to tail shaft ( some are not ? ) tail blade tracking / vibration
13) a tiny spot of plastic servo gear grease dotted each side of the tail servo hook up carrier on the threaded shaft helps tail control.
14) some are finding that a second boom support block located half way between stock boom support block and tail box helps the push rod support better and reduces wag slightly.
15) check main gear is not too tight up against bottom bearing, don’t press it tight like the mcpx
15a) some are fitting a small collar just above the bottom bearing. This transfers flight loads to both bearings
15b) some are trying a small shim above the top bearing on the main shaft, (not much benefit).
15c) some are using fine bore brass or alloy tubing to slide over main shaft and space ‘A’ gear from bottom bearing. This transfers flight loads to both bearings ( good option )
Things to note:
1) gyros switch off when motor stops to 0, then 4 seconds and reinitialize in rate type mode, once motors running again, gyro’s go to heading lock mode ( all 3)
2) other batteries are showing a fair performance against stock twin Miniaviation 300s and Gens ace 450 and others
3) after a smack, check rear torque shaft is still aligned with end of gear C and hasn't moved
4) some are getting rear tail and main blade failures, mostly because they aren't balanced and snugged down correctly
5) bad vibes when spinning up are not ok, no matter what horizon say, most are caused by poor bearings and bad balance / securing
6) it copes with crashes as well as can be expected if not slightly better, (once other issues are checked above)
7) sub trim can be used on axis if TX is holding off centre, regardless of what the manual says, its wrong.
8) the throttle curves in the manual are wrong ! ! dont allow such a jump in throttle between IU's it will only put strain on bits that dont need it
9) try not to run batteries back to back one after the other, as that motor is running at 165 deg, and in runners build heat ( to be fair you should not do this with any electric heli really)
You may see a mention there of up rated Japanese bearings, we are compiling a kit of these and I will post a separate thread and link here when the thread is complete.
We hope that this helps to iron out some small issues, and please feel free to add to this thread.
If you haven’t ordered a 130X yet don’t forget here; Blade 130X [BLH3780UK] [BNF] IN STOCK!
And if you need spares we have stock arriving soon; 130X Spares
Signing out the guys at RC Hero.
Just another snippet from around here is the Gain's adjsutment guide;
Blade 130x gyro gains, How to adjust.
3-Axis Gyro Menu
To Enter Programming Mode
1. TX on throttle set to high (100%)
2. Plug the flight battery into the helicopter.
3. The Status LED will go solid blue, then there will be a sequence of Red, Green, and Blue Flashing LED’s
4. The RED LED will now be solid and the status LED will be flashing.
To change between axis use the Elevator stick.
Red LED = Elevator
Green LED = Aileron
Blue LED = Rudder
To change the gain value use the Aileron stick
There are ten steps available in either direction, total of 20 gain values for each axis.
The highest and lowest values are not high enough or low enough to cause not to be flyable. It adjusts
the gain in a window only.
Right Aileron increases the gain, the LED lights will start flashing faster.
Left Aileron decreases the gain, the LED lights will start flashing slower.
When the Axis LED is solid that is default value (neutral gain).
To reset the settings to default
Hold right rudder for 5 seconds while in programming mode, there will be a sequence of Red, Green and
Blue flashing LED’s to signify the default settings have been applied.
Rudder value must be at 100% travel for this to occur.
To exit the menu.
Simply just unplug the battery. Set the throttle to low throttle or throttle hold and re-plug in the
battery.
Following the recent launch of the 130X we would like to take an opportunity to provide some feedback from our findings with the new model. And to help out a few issues some users are having. Our in house expert has compiled a complete checklist you should complete for you new 130X. This can help improve the 130X to no end!
We except no responsibility for damage, accidents or anything else that may occur during any repair or tweak, and this should be treated as a guide only.
Check List
1) check tail servo rear retaining nut, most are using a single drop of CA rather than the silicon it comes with.
2) many are putting a length of fuel tube over the over the swash upper links to hold the ball links better
3) use the spare canopy grommets that come with the kit for the 3 lower swash joints, and not the ones supplied already fitted.
4) Balance both main and tail blades
5) tighten main and tail blades just enough to dampen gravity, certainly not floppy loose as horizon suggest
6) tail and cyclic gains may need reducing if slop is left in the linkages
7) may have to undo tail linkage ball link a few turns to help centre tail throws, any tail blow outs are directly related.
8) check boom is fully seated, some are not !
9) use 240 / 320 grit wet and dry to umbrella gear a to help prevent it touching FETs on elev servo, don’t let the dust go into other bearings and servos though
10) replace all bearings especially tail end with Japanese abec 3 huge difference by those who have changed already, i second this as i done it on the mcpx
10a) some are finding that triflow grease in stock bearings is helping too !
11) thread lock both feather shafts
12) check tail hub is 90degs to tail shaft ( some are not ? ) tail blade tracking / vibration
13) a tiny spot of plastic servo gear grease dotted each side of the tail servo hook up carrier on the threaded shaft helps tail control.
14) some are finding that a second boom support block located half way between stock boom support block and tail box helps the push rod support better and reduces wag slightly.
15) check main gear is not too tight up against bottom bearing, don’t press it tight like the mcpx
15a) some are fitting a small collar just above the bottom bearing. This transfers flight loads to both bearings
15b) some are trying a small shim above the top bearing on the main shaft, (not much benefit).
15c) some are using fine bore brass or alloy tubing to slide over main shaft and space ‘A’ gear from bottom bearing. This transfers flight loads to both bearings ( good option )
Things to note:
1) gyros switch off when motor stops to 0, then 4 seconds and reinitialize in rate type mode, once motors running again, gyro’s go to heading lock mode ( all 3)
2) other batteries are showing a fair performance against stock twin Miniaviation 300s and Gens ace 450 and others
3) after a smack, check rear torque shaft is still aligned with end of gear C and hasn't moved
4) some are getting rear tail and main blade failures, mostly because they aren't balanced and snugged down correctly
5) bad vibes when spinning up are not ok, no matter what horizon say, most are caused by poor bearings and bad balance / securing
6) it copes with crashes as well as can be expected if not slightly better, (once other issues are checked above)
7) sub trim can be used on axis if TX is holding off centre, regardless of what the manual says, its wrong.
8) the throttle curves in the manual are wrong ! ! dont allow such a jump in throttle between IU's it will only put strain on bits that dont need it
9) try not to run batteries back to back one after the other, as that motor is running at 165 deg, and in runners build heat ( to be fair you should not do this with any electric heli really)
You may see a mention there of up rated Japanese bearings, we are compiling a kit of these and I will post a separate thread and link here when the thread is complete.
We hope that this helps to iron out some small issues, and please feel free to add to this thread.
If you haven’t ordered a 130X yet don’t forget here; Blade 130X [BLH3780UK] [BNF] IN STOCK!
And if you need spares we have stock arriving soon; 130X Spares
Signing out the guys at RC Hero.
Just another snippet from around here is the Gain's adjsutment guide;
Blade 130x gyro gains, How to adjust.
3-Axis Gyro Menu
To Enter Programming Mode
1. TX on throttle set to high (100%)
2. Plug the flight battery into the helicopter.
3. The Status LED will go solid blue, then there will be a sequence of Red, Green, and Blue Flashing LED’s
4. The RED LED will now be solid and the status LED will be flashing.
To change between axis use the Elevator stick.
Red LED = Elevator
Green LED = Aileron
Blue LED = Rudder
To change the gain value use the Aileron stick
There are ten steps available in either direction, total of 20 gain values for each axis.
The highest and lowest values are not high enough or low enough to cause not to be flyable. It adjusts
the gain in a window only.
Right Aileron increases the gain, the LED lights will start flashing faster.
Left Aileron decreases the gain, the LED lights will start flashing slower.
When the Axis LED is solid that is default value (neutral gain).
To reset the settings to default
Hold right rudder for 5 seconds while in programming mode, there will be a sequence of Red, Green and
Blue flashing LED’s to signify the default settings have been applied.
Rudder value must be at 100% travel for this to occur.
To exit the menu.
Simply just unplug the battery. Set the throttle to low throttle or throttle hold and re-plug in the
battery.
"Getting Bigger By Being Better"
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