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  • #16
    Vibration caused by out of balance tail blades or a bent tail shaft would cause that outer bearing some grief. Just something to bear in mind. SKF, FAG, NKE etc. maybe slightly better quality but you will pay more for them and there is nothing to say they won't fail either!

    P.S. I use simplybearings.co.uk.

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    • #17
      Those pictures are interesting - I had exactly the same problem on my Trex 250SE when I changed it over to the new style tail unit. Within a few flights the bearing had gone similar to the picture. I replaced it with the same (new style) unit and it happened again within a few flights. I then replaced it with a new "older style" tail unit and it's been OK.

      As Richardmid1 above - I often wondered if there was some other issues, but since the old style unit is performing so well, I just left it.

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      • #18
        Just remembered about this thread m. I tend to change mine over winter and then when they need to doing due to wear etc.

        Does anyone else know where I can get swash plate bearings from?
        Harry

        Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
        Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
        SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


        And a pillow for the doghouse...

        Powered by Futaba 18SZ

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        • #19
          It would probably be cheaper to buy a new swash plate! Certainly easier anyway!

          Depending on the swash plate you can do the grub screw mod which takes the play out of them. If there is enough material between the bearing and the outside of the swash plate you can remove the bearing and drill and tap 3 M3 or M4 holes 120 degrees apart and insert 3 grub screws to put light pressure on the outer race of the swash bearing (if it feels notchy you have over tightened them, it doesn't take much pressure to take all the play out of the bearing).

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Richardmid1 View Post
            It would probably be cheaper to buy a new swash plate! Certainly easier anyway!

            Depending on the swash plate you can do the grub screw mod which takes the play out of them. If there is enough material between the bearing and the outside of the swash plate you can remove the bearing and drill and tap 3 M3 or M4 holes 120 degrees apart and insert 3 grub screws to put light pressure on the outer race of the swash bearing (if it feels notchy you have over tightened them, it doesn't take much pressure to take all the play out of the bearing).

            Thanks for that mate. No slop, it list feels a little bit gritty even when cleaned and oiled.
            Harry

            Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
            Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
            SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


            And a pillow for the doghouse...

            Powered by Futaba 18SZ

            Comment


            • #21
              i see the broplem here.... you got no balls mate :P

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              • #22
                I get all my bearings from RC Model Bearings (RC Model Fixings). They supply good quality bearings at reasonable prices and their service is excellent.
                Tron 7.0 advance Vbar evo V Control
                Foamy plank
                icharger 3010b, Coolice 24v psu
                Member of MK Heli Club and LMAC

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