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  • #16
    Great, thats the right way to go about it! Sorry to get on at you, but the amount of people I have approach me when Im flying these things, and either stand right next to/ underneath it or ask for a go and then cant understand why I say no... Its clear to us heli fliers that most of the "joe public" have no perception of how dangerous they are and merely see it as a toy!

    Im glad your doing things the right way round. I'd certainly suggest investing in a simulator or getting some lessons, they are both extremely worthwhile investments. Phoenix is a good one, a lot of people use it on here - and you can fly in groups online too, so to a certain extent people will tutor you when flying online. We are all very helpful

    Just FYI since its a nitro, you shouldnt have a problem plugging in that battery and switching the transmitter on and checking everything moves like it should do, the engine will not start on its own - so you should be safe to do that.

    Does it have an autoglow thing? (Some nitros use a special module fitted to them so you can flick a switch on the transmitter to ignite the glowplug, others require the use of a separate glow plug ignitor thing like the below)

    http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_122538_1.jpg

    If it has a built in auto glow module just check its not on before you plug the battery in. you dont want to burn out the glow plug or flatten your battery.

    Things you should probably research now are a bit of battery technology, charging, caring for them etc, and then things like starting procedures, engine tuning, have a read of the manual for your transmitter and whatnot. Its important to understand things like trim, sub trim, dual rates, swashplates etc.

    You may find this series of videos very interesting. Its quite high level stuff, but explains a lot of concepts very clearly. I think there are 7 in the series.

    Helicopter Physics Series Intro - #1 Smarter Every Day 45 - YouTube
    NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
    TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
    | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
    Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Delarado View Post
      .........

      You may find this series of videos very interesting. Its quite high level stuff, but explains a lot of concepts very clearly. I think there are 7 in the series.

      Helicopter Physics Series Intro - #1 Smarter Every Day 45 - YouTube
      Totally agree. I really enjoyed this series by Destin. Very interesting/educational - cool flying demos from Carl Groover and fantastic music to boot!

      Well worth the time to watch ..
      Tom
      sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
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      - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
      Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
      Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
      .... and a Gaui X3
      Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
      ... and two EGS'



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      • #18
        Keratos - there is no defacto correct way to do things.

        With a flybarred head you MUST set the links correctly and have a level swash etc.

        With flybarless, its not so important but still a good idea to get it about right.

        Use the manual for your heli to set the link lengths to about what the manual says. Then use a swashplate levelling tool ( I think this is the one but not sure Swashplate Leveling Tool V2 for T-REX 550/600 CNC AL /Carbon 30410026) to get the swash level, you take the head off so you just have the shaft sticking up, slip that tool over the shaft and the legs should contact the 3 legs of the swash. If not, adjust link lengths / transmitter sub trims and go from there.

        However, you may need to do something with the 3g unit to stop the gyros interfering, but im not sure - ive never used a 3g before.

        once this is all level put it all back together. However, if the heli has flown you shouldnt need to do this. IMO just turn it on, check the swash is about level by eye and you shouldnt need to do much else.

        Is a different matter with a newly built heli, but since its been used before you should be ok.
        NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
        TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
        | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
        Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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        • #19
          Some paired links in some situations need to be equal in length particularly in a new build or if re-setting the mechanics. I think it applies more to non eCCPM set-ups. I was a bit lavish many years ago and bought a Century link gauge which is a great piece of kit and it gets used more often than not.

          Century Control Rod Set-up | Midland Helicopters Ltd

          That said, a lot of times I make extra tweaking adjustments as has been pointed out above by others.
          Helicopter pilots get it up quicker.

          When the blue light is flashing I am kidding.

          Why simplify when it is so much simpler to complicate.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Keratos View Post
            Can you provide a link/explanation of what this does and How do i do this
            By inserting the plugs into the eye of the link you can then use a vernier caliper to measure the links and then adjust them to the correct length then when you reattach the links to the swash it should be level.
            Considering yours has been flown already I would suspect everything is as it should be.
            The Fleet

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            Paul

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            • #21
              If you are really that bothered about checking them accurately, take a vernier, insert the inside measuring anvils into a ball link, open out against the the inner walls. Zero your vernier. Then measure from outer (inside) edge on one ball link to outer (inside) edge on the other ball link, an accurate reading can be observed of centre to centre.
              Humble owner of 7 Eddie Gold Stars and Ex - member of Mk Heli Club
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              • #22
                ok guys, thanks for the excellent advice. I understand but need to post a new topic as my understanding has led to another topic question
                Align 600 Nitro Pro 3D; Align FL760 3G FBL conversion; OS .50 Nitro; Turnigy Digital Servos (ELE,AIL); Spektrum Digital Servos (THROT,RUDDER); Align 2in1 Regulator and Electronic Glow Plug switched start; Walkera Devo 10 Tx and Rx kit; Fuel Filter; Heli Artist scale Airwolf with retractables.

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                • #23
                  Resolved. Many thanks.
                  Align 600 Nitro Pro 3D; Align FL760 3G FBL conversion; OS .50 Nitro; Turnigy Digital Servos (ELE,AIL); Spektrum Digital Servos (THROT,RUDDER); Align 2in1 Regulator and Electronic Glow Plug switched start; Walkera Devo 10 Tx and Rx kit; Fuel Filter; Heli Artist scale Airwolf with retractables.

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