What tools for checking links

[Keratos]

I am going to remove links from all the servos, and check on a bench , against the spec.

What are the names of the tools i will need to do the job. Ive never come across balls/links before so not sure how to remove/refit and the tools required. then i will search ebay and heli sites to make a purchase.

thank you in anticipation.

[Vikki]

Ball link pliers is what you're thinking of

[tomatwalden]

I am going to remove links from all the servos, and check on a bench , against the spec.

What are the names of the tools i will need to do the job. Ive never come across balls/links before so not sure how to remove/refit and the tools required. then i will search ebay and heli sites to make a purchase.

thank you in anticipation.

Ball link pliers will take them off. But don't check them on a bench against spec.

You will need help for this, but essentially there's several things you need to check :-

- Blade tracking
- Level swash plate?
- Blade pitch
- etc.

The lengths of the rods/links affect some of these in various ways. None of which involve checking off the heli. The sort of tools you'll need are are swashplate levelling tool and a blade pitch tool.

Suggested read : Blade Tracking & First Spool Up

T

[Keratos]

Thanks buddy
I was watching the chopperfun vids from day 1, but my initial thoughts were that they missed out a whole load of stuff around checking ball and linkage movement, linkage lengths, swash levelling, and a whole load of stuff on the Tx side. Mine also has FBL so a whole load of stuff to do on the gyro/3G. I'm learning - slowly LoL.

How do i check movement of balls/links in situ - difficult to determine if the ball/link movement is hard or sloppy. Also, how do i check the length of links. A ruler doesnt do it in situ, even on a bench it would be difficult

thanks for your help

[Vikki]

You might be worrying too much about the lengths of the links. I get mine spot on with digital calipers and then end up adjusting the lengths anyway to level the swash etc.

Movement in the link, if you can't feel it, it isn't there, if you can then change the parts. You might be getting a bit too critical about things. Do you have a specific problem that you are chasing down?

I think there are proper tools available for measuring link length.

[tomatwalden]

You might be worrying too much about the lengths of the links. I get mine spot on with digital calipers and then end up adjusting the lengths anyway to level the swash etc.

+1 on this. The point is that there is no correct length for the rods. The manuals give a starting point, but after that, the lengths need to be adjusted to ensure level swash and blade pitch etc. Variations in servos, servo horns, blades etc. will all cause there to be a need for the links to vary from the manual.

In short, the length of the links doesn't matter. A level swash and correctly pitched blades does !

[PKNEC]

The length is just to get the links the same so you should have the swash plate pretty level to start with,then when you put a swash level on it you may find yourself adjusting the links again.
Don't forget to have the letter A facing out when you replace the links.
If you want to be ultra bob on you could get a vernier calliper and a set of these PUSHROD MEASURING TOOL ONLY _ VARIO

[Delarado]

You dont even need a level swash for flybarless applications.

A guy I've flown with who flies at competition level levels his swash plate by eye. Even I winced a bit at that, but his flying is a million times better than mine, so it cant be that bad!

Completely stupid and impossible to do that with a flybarred head, but with flybarless it doesn't matter so much. The gyros sort it out.

[Keratos]

Thanks guys

I dont have a specific issue with setup, its just that i was given the heli 2nd hand and thought it appropriate to check mechanicals commencing with the head

I do have FBL with align 3g setup so it isnt that essential i check links , movement and swash level???

[Varelco]

You dont even need a level swash for flybarless applications.

A guy I've flown with who flies at competition level levels his swash plate by eye. Even I winced a bit at that, but his flying is a million times better than mine, so it cant be that bad!

Completely stupid and impossible to do that with a flybarred head, but with flybarless it doesn't matter so much. The gyros sort it out.

I think a good mechanical set up is still very important. I agree its not going to be as essential as a flybarred heli but just leaving it to the FBL controller is poor practise, ultimately you are giving the FBL controller more work. PID controllers are not simple pieces of kit, a well set up and balanced heli will help it perform at its best.

[Keratos]

The length is just to get the links the same so you should have the swash plate pretty level to start with,then when you put a swash level on it you may find yourself adjusting the links again.
Don't forget to have the letter A facing out when you replace the links.
If you want to be ultra bob on you could get a vernier calliper and a set of these PUSHROD MEASURING TOOL ONLY _ VARIO

Can you provide a link/explanation of what this does and How do i do this

[Delarado]

Is this the 600 Nitro?

Do you have the original radio? This should have all the correct setup on it.

I'd take it to someone more experienced to check it over before you fly. Id also recommend either getting yourself the simulator and practicing on that for a number of weeks, or getting lessons and not flying your own heli until you are competent.

If you do want to do some quick checks though, if you power everything up (proper sequence is TX first, then the model) you should see all the servos centre. The swashplate should be level, and the tail blades should have a little bit of anti-torque pitch to them at rest (so if your standing above the heli with the tail blade sticking straight up at you, the sharp end of the top most blade should be pointing slightly away from the tail boom)

Do not start the engine on the model until you have some help.

A 600 is not a small helicopter, The average rotational blade speed of one of these is around 300mph. Can you imagine being hit with anything moving at 300mph? Let alone a thin sharp piece of carbon fibre. We cannot stress enough how much personal injury one of these things can cause, and also how difficult they are to fly. They are NOT like any other heli you will have flown before in a house or similar. Apologies as I don't know your skill level when it comes to flying these things, I don't wish to patronise or lecture you; but I really feel I need to make clear just how much damage you can do to yourself with one of these and also the costs involved (One crash of a 600 sized nitro could cost upwards of £500 to repair)

[Delarado]

Can you provide a link/explanation of what this does and How do i do this

You dont need that thing. Just get some vernier calipers:



Use them to measure the length of the links. Put the link between the jaws where the circle marked "1" is and youll see how long the link is.

If you really want to learn the ins and outs of this heli, may i suggest downloading the manual and doing a complete strip and rebuild? We can help you through it. If your interested, put up some pics of the heli you have and im sure a kind soul will find the correct manual for you to use.

[Keratos]

Sound advice - thanks

For info, i have had the heli for 4 weeks but not powered it up. Ive spent hours and hours reading , wAtching vids, posting on this forum and learning. Im joining a club where i work, BFMA affiliated
Im just developing an awareness and appreciation for now. Havent even switched it on yet !
Thanks

Is this the 600 Nitro?

Do you have the original radio? This should have all the correct setup on it.

I'd take it to someone more experienced to check it over before you fly. Id also recommend either getting yourself the simulator and practicing on that for a number of weeks, or getting lessons and not flying your own heli until you are competent.

If you do want to do some quick checks though, if you power everything up (proper sequence is TX first, then the model) you should see all the servos centre. The swashplate should be level, and the tail blades should have a little bit of anti-torque pitch to them at rest (so if your standing above the heli with the tail blade sticking straight up at you, the sharp end of the top most blade should be pointing slightly away from the tail boom)

Do not start the engine on the model until you have some help.

A 600 is not a small helicopter, The average rotational blade speed of one of these is around 300mph. Can you imagine being hit with anything moving at 300mph? Let alone a thin sharp piece of carbon fibre. We cannot stress enough how much personal injury one of these things can cause, and also how difficult they are to fly. They are NOT like any other heli you will have flown before in a house or similar. Apologies as I don't know your skill level when it comes to flying these things, I don't wish to patronise or lecture you; but I really feel I need to make clear just how much damage you can do to yourself with one of these and also the costs involved (One crash of a 600 sized nitro could cost upwards of £500 to repair)

[Keratos]

Guys , im confused, head hurts

Do i need to check link lengths or just level the swashplate, and either way, how do i do it and what tools do i need

I cant help feeling i am getting different ideas and views, sorry, please can i have a definitive solution, is that possible???