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  • #16
    I have take the old cluch liner out and got a 700 liner to put in, however does it matter which way round the liner goes? one side is mottled and the other plain?


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    • #17
      Shouldn't really matter it's more than likely just due to the manufacturing process.
      The man that has never crashed a heli has never flown a heli.


      Lewis McIntosh

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      • #18
        Thanks, that was my assumption but I just wanted to check


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        • #19
          A little tip for gluing in, smear the smallest amount on, even less than you're thinking. Butt the ends up together before you seat all of it and then press down the lump left. Saves getting epoxy on the overlap and then having to clean it off. Wrap 2 layers of insulating tape around the clutch itself and press into the middle, should be good to go in the time it takes for the epoxy to go off.
          Humble owner of 7 Eddie Gold Stars and Ex - member of Mk Heli Club
          sigpic

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jwatts007 View Post
            I would check the bearings on the pinion as well as you have got it out these can be the cause of nasty vibes if they are shot, they are the same ones used on the 700 feathering shaft I think....
            I have to replace my clutch lining, but shoes seem ok? slightly smoother at the open end....ok to re-fit? Main question is, if checking the pinion bearing, what am I looking for to tell if I should replace?
            OLLY.....THE POND DWELLER
            ---------------------------------
            Blade 400 (not at all 3d!) Blade MSR, Blade MCPX 2, TRex 600n (dfc, vortex) Trex 700n LE (FBL, vortex) JR DX9 v2

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            • #21
              I would have thought that the cluch would have been ok, just look for any signs of cracks starting. I would 100% reccomend the 700 liner as thats what I used and it works a treat.

              As for the bearings, they should not feel gritty.


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              • #22
                Originally posted by mark_w View Post
                I would have thought that the cluch would have been ok, just look for any signs of cracks starting. I would 100% reccomend the 700 liner as thats what I used and it works a treat.

                As for the bearings, they should not feel gritty.
                Thanks, just what I needed to hear.
                OLLY.....THE POND DWELLER
                ---------------------------------
                Blade 400 (not at all 3d!) Blade MSR, Blade MCPX 2, TRex 600n (dfc, vortex) Trex 700n LE (FBL, vortex) JR DX9 v2

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                • #23
                  The clutch on my Rex 600N shattered in two recently so I just replaced with the stock clutch for a tenner. The liner looked fine but it did look very shiny so i just used the dremel with the wire brush accessory and just roughed it up a little to offer a bit more grip and with the new clutch just a few rubs with sand paper did the trick. The new clutch engages perfectly job done.
                  Happy flying!
                  Nik Johnson

                  sigpic

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                  • #24
                    Just to say thanks to all earlier contributers to this thread, from a new nitro convertee.

                    I stripped mine down following all of the tips above and replaced the liner only with the 700 liner. Only thing which worried me on first start up, was the very early grab of the new liner. This is just something to be wary of and keep good hold on blade grips and keep throttle as low as possible when first starting. After a few flights doing hops and drops to put a bit of grab to the clutch all seems to be settling in well.
                    OLLY.....THE POND DWELLER
                    ---------------------------------
                    Blade 400 (not at all 3d!) Blade MSR, Blade MCPX 2, TRex 600n (dfc, vortex) Trex 700n LE (FBL, vortex) JR DX9 v2

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