Trex 700N purchase question.

[RookieRC]

Hi Mark_T - the reason i want the helicommand is so if i get disorientated when high up i can (in theory) return the cyclic stick to neutral and helicommand should return the heli to a stable hover, also i would like it so i can hover better (at least to start) till i get more comfortable with the 700.

The only reason i went for the 3G combo is cause its the most expensive (not for bragging rights or coz its the best, but cause i thought it would be the best package as i am a noob to nitro's and indeed helis and i dont know much about nitro setups).

J-S-Q - i see what u mean now, what are the benefits of having a governor? and is it better to have one?

Many thanks

[J-S-Q]

J-S-Q - i see what u mean now, what are the benefits of having a governor? and is it better to have one?

The governor controls the throttle on your engine (instead of the conventional method of using a throttle curve in your transmitter). It has a sensor that detects whenever the headspeed is dropping and compensates by adding more throttle. If the headspeed is too fast it will automatically reduce the throttle.

It just means your headspeed stays nice and consistent. If you are only doing basic flying though, it is easy to achieve this with throttle curves so you really wouldn't be missing out on too much by not initially running a governor. It's when you start to throw the thing around that it becomes more of an issue.

[shikari_chaos]

Different people have varying views on people with less experience using Flybarless setups. I for one have never flown a flybarless heli so can't properly comment on the flight characteristics although from the views and experience of most people on this forum they seem to be far more stable in a hover because of the way the electronics help.
In terms of setup you obviously have a few more bits to do electronically and I have been looking into going FBL alot lately and everything does seem relatively easy to get the thing up in the air.

The one thing i would say is that if this is your first nitro engine experience and your first FBL experience along with being a much bigger model then you might have your plate rather full...

[Baldie]

Now, I dont own a 700 ... But, Do you REALLY want a 700? Not saying your going to crash etc, but I'm sure others that have crashed both will help, The 700 looks like it would cost a heap more in a crash.. Blades cost more etc.
Would be interested to hear as I'm starting to toy with the idea of a 550/600/700 lately after building and being so impressed with the 500. Im in no rush, there seems to be some good secondhand ones around -Maybe looking at getting one in the new year ready for next spring.

I'm done with small helis(450s) and the Rappy, I love it to bits- Its a big kitten, but, well its a bit sedate (zzzz)and destined for a scale fuse one day, or I may sell it.

[Mark_T]

Hi Mark_T - the reason i want the helicommand is so if i get disorientated when high up i can (in theory) return the cyclic stick to neutral and helicommand should return the heli to a stable hover, also i would like it so i can hover better (at least to start) till i get more comfortable with the 700.

I'm with Andy when it comes to not telling people how to spend their own money so I'll not comment on the choice of a 700 other than to say you will be burning a lot more fuel while you learn than you would on a smaller nitro model but in the end that too is only money

As to the Helicommand, I think you may end up a little dissapointed.

Just moving to a larger model is going to make hovering easier as long as it is set up right for an early stage learner. The Helicommand will enable you to hover very easily, but it is not going to teach you to hover.

The problem with the recovery at altitude bit is that by the time you are flying high enough for this to be an issue you will be turning off the helicommand anyway so it doesn't get in the way of the '3D' you are trying to fly, so if you lose control you are going to have to turn it on and let go of the stick and hope you still have enough time and height for the system to recover.

It is true that it will not have to work more than a couple of times to pay for itself, but once you progress much further with this hobby you'll probably find that the circumstances in which you crash are not ones that the Helicommand will save you from as you'll either be high enough to recover without help or too low for the system to be able to help anyway.

[Ade_Law]

just be aware that 90s are very big machines compared to a twister 3d and for sport flying a 90 doesnt really give any great advantage over a 50.

same with flybarless. For the flying your doing there really is nothing wrong with a flybar setup.

Ade

[Vanquish]

If I was looking at getting into nitro heli's now i'd probably buy a Trex 600LE combo as its a lot cheaper to buy and repair than the 700 and it would be an easier and far less intimidating heli to learn the basics of nitro with.

This combo is probably what I would go for. A top of the range 600 with all electrics for £485 - less than the price of a 700 airframe on its own.

trex 600 Nitro Pro Limited Edition (KX0160NPTL) - Align T-Rex Kits Align T-Rex 600 - Align-Trex.co.uk, Specialist supplier of kits and spares for R/C Align Helicopters

[moyesboy]

You are looking at 1.5 x the cost of everything for a .90 compared to a .50. Perhaps even more than that for the fuel.
Compared to your twister a .50 will already seem pretty big.
You can already fly your twister about, so you don't need the helicommand. Unless you are referring to a new helicommand unit that that is a competitor to the 3G flybarless system?
You might want to go flybarless for technological interest or some personal reason, and thats perfectly reasonable, but to begin with its an extra expense that isn't necessary.
don't confuse the automatic stabilisation of the helicommand with the functionality of the likes of the 3G. The 3G is not a automatic stabilisation system - the heli will keep going the way you last told it to go and not right itself!

On a .90 size heli overspeeding the engine is a serious matter, more serious than on a .50 size. Almost all .90 helis have a governor, but on a .50 its optional. It is a nice to have though.
I suggest you go to a club field and stand next to some of the pilots flying to help decide if you really want a .90 compared to a .50.

[RookieRC]

Much appreciate all the comments, i think i'll look into a 600N due to the prices and flying time with electrics, and a 600 because as u say its cheaper on parts and initial price....i will still get a DX8 and use a governer.

i also think i will go with a flybarless system (i know its not a system that corrects attitude etc) as i plan to buy a scale fuse (airwolf at the same time (not to be fitted till i am ready for it of course).

Thanks alot, it helps hearing other peoples views and experiences.

[flyeruk]

I have just started flying again after a two year break. I was only at the stage of lazy eights then so have still got to get back into it. I have flown about a gallon so far,just hovering about at the moment. Im flying a Raptor 90 se. Big
heli but dont find it al all intimadating.Fuel disappears very fast through.