Alees Rush 750 build thread.

[Jamin_00]

Not done one for ages so bear with.

First impressions are everything and from the moment you get the box it does not fail too impress. Open it up and its all packaged in what seem the norm now, canopy in a box with a few bits inside and the metal bits all nicely placed in foam surrounds. Then the boom and supports etc are in the long box placed at the back.

No manual is supplied instead its on a CD but I always download .pdf's of everything I own now and use them anyway so for me this is no issue as I prefer it tbh. The manual can be downloaded from their website here

The canopy is soooooo much better in the flesh than in the pics I have seen and I love the scheme, I think it wont be long till we see some after market ones to or simply some blanks over to Buckers

I hope to have the airframe all built by later tonight as I got the kiddies with me today so as long as I can get the airframe all done so it can at least come to the field tomorrow to show the lads then I'll prob finish the electronics over the next few early mornings at work

Available via Climb Out distribution at Midlands at this promotional price of £579.99 for the first batch only I believe.

Some pics for now, enjoy

[Jamin_00]

Going through in order of the manual starts with the head.


First bit out is the head block, its chunky and of very good quality it appears. The Flap inserts slot in to the head first, they have straight edges so make sure these are lined up or they will not go in. Then the Flap Dampers slot in and protrude about 0.5mm out of the head block. Screw the head button on (if you chose to use it)


Then its the FBL levers but before you put these on slot the 2 x M3 x 10 bolts in that clamp the head block to the shaft as the FBL levers slightly block the access to these holes so you wont get them in if you do not do this first. Then when you put the FBL levers on they slot on to the little bits sticking out of the head very nicely. I always put the little M3 x 8 screw through first then put a little thread lock on so I know none touches anything on the way through the bearing. Not forgetting to put the long ball link on too


Then the block slids on to the main shaft and its the hole thats closest to the edge that goes in to the head, slot the jesus bolt through the head, youll notice the bolt goes through the side with a circle as the other side has straight edges to hold the nut while you do it up.


The main grips are next and these are big chunky jobbies and have a real nice finish. I love the fact they have the logo machined in them too on both sides, nice touch. The 3 bearings are already in the grips here, 2 in 1 side and 1 inside the grip. Chuck the brass washer done in the grip followed by the conventional thrust bearings once you have smothered them in grease. They asemble in the normal way, larger diameter hole on first. Repeat this the other side and assemble through the block and tighten it all down. 2 x 5mm hex drivers needed


Put the grip arm FBL on and measure the 2 links then done. These ball links are extremely tight getting on and I had them the correct way around but so much so I thought they would be very tight to move when on but its not the case so I would say done be tempted to ream these out.


Swash plate is next, I checked and my bolts that hold it altogether were all tight with lock tight so all I done was put the linkage balls on and thats the swash done. It again is great quality but on mine I can see marks on the lower part of the swash where I think it has been gripped in a tooling machine or something as its on all 3 sides. Does not bother me but it may do to some. The marks are not deep and it feels smooth but they are there. You should be able to see in the pic.

[cupracing]

crickey that looks quality!

[waveydavey]

You're not going to be dissapointed when you're finished Ben, saw Andys flying today and it's a seriously nice piece of kit. Looks superb in the air, even with the N5ish cano

[Jamin_00]

Next comes the main bearing blocks and the motor mount. The bearings are preinstalled but you need to add the little retaining screws to hold them in. Add the motor to the mount and locktight up.


The motor mount doubler it a nice piece of work with the logo etched on, again a nice touch. The next couple of steps are to start attaching items to one side frame. This is all straight forward. Add in some frame braces, servo mounts and the canopy posts that are on CF break off tabs and the the first bits added to the frames.
Then we pick up some more CF. This time its the battery tray and the frame doubler. I never realised until now that it is 2 battery trays back to back with spacers in the middle, I thought it was just one like the Xxtreme but nope. Its a little fiddly this bit. Balancing the frame while getting the long M3 x 28 bolts through then theres the spacers which have the bits that centralise them on. Then the the bolts had to be screwed as the tolerance was so tight for the holes they go through on the battery tray because they would not push through, no biggie just a little fiddly thats all. Once this is done they screw into another spacer the other side of the tray that will eventually be the center line of the heli.
Next step is onto the A frame and the bell cranks. Very straight forward here, again all the bearing are preinstalled.
The boom mount assembly is very nice. The gears feel a little tighter than what Im use to but they have that tight smoooooth feel to them, no notchyness AT ALL. As the main part of this is already together again I checked the bolts holding it together and these needed locktighting. Get the CF tray out as this joins the back part of the boom mount and attach that with 4 little M3 x 6 screws. There are 4 holes in the side which houses little M3 pin screws to secure the boom. They just poke in to the boom enough. There 2 in the front part of this boom mount and 2 on the rear part of it.


So now this gets attached to the frame and the A arm gets inserted on this side too along with the 3 CF electronics trays. Theres an advisory in the manual at this point saying you may need to sand these to fit but my 3 all fitted fine.

[Jamin_00]

Now is the second half of the frame. Attach the CF frame doubler and the second battery tray which will be tightened when you connect the 2 halfs together. Once I had connected the 2 together I jumped a few steps and put the landing gear on to make it easier to work on. The landing gear is exactly the same style as the Fusion which is good.
Next are the bell cranks and this is very straight forward also, just line up the elevator bell crank to flats on the shaft for the grub screw and thats that, the other 2 just simply slide on and screw the M3 x 5 nut in.

I skipped the next step as this is servo installation and I just wanted to do the airframe yesterday so I went on to the main gear and one way assembly. Pull the main gear of the hub assembly as you have to screw the bottom together then put the main gear on and screw this down. Now take the head on the main shaft and slot this through the bearings, not forgetting to put the swash on like I did btw and put in the shaft retainer. Due to the gap in the battery tray you can get a good size screwdriver there to tighten this up. Line up the hole and slide the jesus bolt through. Now you raise the lower bearing block up to take up any play and this does away with the need for a clamp on the shaft like conventional designs.

Now out comes the tail gearbox. This is preassembled so I took out the screws and re did the locktight and reassembled. The thrust bearing on the tail grips were pre greased but the nuts were not locktighted so locktight on and back in. Assemble the tail pitch control which is very straight forward, slide the tail grips on, insert the grub screw aligning it up to the indent on the shaft and tighten this down and thats the tail gearbox ready to go on.

Now take the long box which has the tail linkage rod, boom supports and the boom. The boom looks a little thin but another nice touch is the etched logo in the middle, very nice

[Jamin_00]

Did I say the boom looks sweet?

Anyway on to the tail linkage rod, slide the 4 guides on this and screw the ends on. Grab the TT, the bearing are not in the rubbers so need pushing in. Once in slide the 4 (yes 4) on the shaft and set at the distance as per manual. The 2 ends push in and are held in place with a nylon nut and bolt. When it comes to installing the TT in to the boom out of everything I have used I have found by far and away the easiest and best thing to use is Mr Pledge furniture polish or whatever she has in the cupboard and even with the 4 in this heli they slid in a doodle. I just spray a little on the part and rub it around the whole circumference and thats it. All 4 in with no dramas at all.
Then slide the tail linkage rod with the 4 guides on to the boom and now it goes in to the heli. this is very simple and just pushed in until you hit the stops.
I then done the boom supports before putting the tail gearbox on. This just screws in at the base of the heli like normal. Same at the other end on the boom except this again is a nice etched logo part Attach all together and screw down making sure it stays all nice and level. I did not over tighten here as its not needed. Now I got the tail gearbox and this slides in easily enough too. 2 long screws go through the tail fin and in to the gearbox and act as the clamp screws to. There is also another M3 pin screw here as well that goes through the tail a gap in the tail fin.
there are no alignment holes here that is typical with higher end heli's for some reason and require you to make sure its all lined up perfectly before you pinch it all up. The way I do this is to look down the boom and use the frame as a guide and line the tail fin up with this. Get it bang on every time. Then tighten everything up inc the M3 pin screw.

Done, the airframe is built and ready for the electronics. The quality of the kit had me amazed tbh. I was not expecting a huge amount of detail or quality and this maybe due to knowing Charley was involved with Outrage which I consider the same sort of level as Align but this is so a step up from that. The metal parts are machined excellently with the only exception being the marks on the swash. The CF parts are all perfect. Everything went together very well with no mods being needed or tail needing sorting due to misaligned holes or whatever could not help it
I took it to the field today and all the guys were also surprised by the quality so maybe this is a general feeling amongst people with the AleeS Rush 750 but I can assure you that you will also be amazed. I have now built TDR's, Avant's, Synergy, Kasama, Align, Mikado etc etc and this is up there most defo. You will not be disappointed by that side of it.

Now I will install the electronics this week ready for flight next weekend and Im looking forward to this as it looks awesome in the flesh!!

Also some pics of it at the field with the TDR.

[Planehazza]

I resisted posting in this thread as to not interrupt the build thread, but damn I can't help it. This looks like an awesome kit. If I ever get a leccy 90 I reckon it would have to be this!

[milly0812]

Is it just me that's getting twitchy at the sight of a claw hammer in a heli build thread lmao ;-)

[Jamin_00]

Is it just me that's getting twitchy at the sight of a claw hammer in a heli build thread lmao ;-)

I have a short temper so I like to have something nearby to reduce the stress with but needless to say it was not needed on this build

[Idleup95]

........

[ROCKET RONNIE]

i see this heli today very very nice bit of kit, hurry up Ben want to see it up in the air next sunday

[Sesame]

Looking good Ben, how was the finish on the ali parts, any burs etc to get rid of, or has that all been done?

I'll look forward to taking a look at this one, like Ronnie says maybe well get to see it next week. Are you using another VBar on it?

[bulnose]

is the guy who designed this heli responsible for the velocity 90 ?

[swale]

Yes he is the designer the velo 90 is one of the best flying 90 nitros IMHO but let down by outrage part quality.....the rush doesn't appear to share that problem