Throttle and Pitch Curves

[cambs flyer]

Not at all mate, My other hobby is photography but the camera has a problem..

Every time a decent looking chick walks past the bloody shutter goes of..

Must get it fixed sometime..

Thank God for that, I was in two minds weather to send mine back for repair.

[speedy jon]

hi, would these throttle and pitch curves be ok for a beginner like me?
im at the starting to move the heli around stage but not quite figure of 8's.

thanks Jon

[DAZZ]

helpfull stuff ..many thanks

[wildc4rd]

Hi all, first post here. Just setting up my first 'real' heli, and trying to get the pdf on curves, but keep getting an error 'wildc4rd, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:'

Any idea why?

Thanks in advance.

[wildc4rd]

Immediate interest withdrawn, worked it out by playing with it for a few flights, seemed OK, no crashing at least. Still be interested to read through it though if I can resolve the issue.

[jaspar]

Eddie

I nominate mchristieuk for a EGS for this excelent article for beginers like me.

dave

[GravityKills]

My version would be very short:

- use governor => Throttle curves are flat
- use linear pitch curves in all flight modes
- throttle hold pitch curve is 0..100 so that the head's full pitch range is used
- flight modes use slightly reduced pitch, depending on how much torque the motor can deliver. For example linear 16..84.
- at midstick ("50 "on the pitch curve), blade pitch is -exactly- 0 degrees
- at zero pitch, linkage rods, levers, servo wheels, bell cranks, just about anything is in center position, because the head is symmetrical (for a T-Rex-like 3D heli. If in doubt, consult the manual).

Effectively, my whole transmitter setup has only a few "parameters"
- fixed throttle value = headspeed
- maximum pitch for throttle hold
- maximum pitch for flight.
- swash mixing (aileron / elevator) - usually the default value works OK. More swash deflection => faster roll rate, as long as there is no binding anywhere.
- gyro gain

All the other pieces (linkage rod lengths, subtrims) fall into place, based on symmetry around midstick.
And sometimes I feel sorry for the beginners who end up with 30 parameters to tune, a heli that jumps when switching modes and some nasty surprises in general (for example when the swash leveler tells you that you need servo endpoints ranging between 60..120... I don't own a swash leveler, fortunately...).

Personally I don't even use a "normal" flight mode for electric helis - too complicated (for nitro you need it since there is no softstart).
Instead I've got three idle-up modes (with different headspeeds, to maximize flight time). Throttle hold serves as on/off switch, and the softstart takes care of spooling it up gently.

[CookieMan]

Just a quick question guys, what would it take for me to download that file? I mean is ther like a minimum number of posts or something? I just get a message telling that I don't have the sufficient privilege to do so...

Thanks guys,

[CookieMan]

Well, guess what... I've been authorised to download and its wonderful.
The forum probably required a minimum number of 2 or 3 posts before allowing any member full access, in terms of downloading attachments!

Marvellous piece of work chaps... Thank you there!

Cheers,

[3door4x4]

Any advice as to how best set the throttle and pitch curve on an old JR Apex 7 Tx without flashy LCD screens? Will be getting a new Tx and Rx later in the year but until then the old skool way will have to do!

Simon.

[Shady80]

Hi Guys

I'm not sure if I missed something on Marks PDF.....

I've progressed from hovering and starting to do circuits but I'm still using normal mode (mid stick hover)and want use idle up. Mark recommends keeping the mid stick hover but how do you over come the jump/drop when switching to idle up?

Thanks

[Grumpy]

how do you over come the jump/drop when switching to idle up?

Thanks

Best option is avoid the issue altogether and not to have to switch between 'nomal' and 'idle up' at all. For electric power is just make all your flight model 'idle up' and use the throttle hold switch to start and stop the motor (with ESC in soft start obviously).

Normal mode is really a throwback to nitro power and has no logical place on electric helis.

[james_2k]

If you ever want to do inverted stuff id try and swap to a -100 -> +100 pitch curve as soon as you can, it will be an adjustment to you and the longer you leave it the harder it will be.

personally i don't use any normal modes and i'm pretty much just doing what you are flying wise.

[Shady80]

Sorry, should of mentioned, this is a set up for my Trex600 nitro

[Grumpy]

Ahhh, sorry, I should have noticed by your signature. As long as the pitch curves in all your flight mode are matched at the hover point then you shouldn't get and 'jump' when you switch modes.