Phasing.. I think...

[rachel]

have to agree.. very informative!!

I agree with him too

It's just a shame it wasn't the fact he has a LE canopy and mine is pink then ?!!!!

x Rachel

Remember every sensible post must have a little pink in it

[Rotorhead]

That was an good post by steve.

You will need to check the directions of the mixes though, as this is dependant on whether the blades you have normally take up a lead or lag position.

[Steve]

That was an good post by steve.

You will need to check the directions of the mixes though, as this is dependant on whether the blades you have normally take up a lead or lag position.

I've done this mixing on almost every heli I've ever owned, and they've all been clockwise rotation. The mix directions have always been as stated. Only time you're likely to see the mixes reversed would be a counter-clockwise rotating head.

But not impossible.

[Planehazza]

Won't be phasing Eddie. Add a little left trim on parameter setting B and try that. Theres a bit in the Beast manual about it. The only way you will have phasing issues with the Beast is if you haven't mounted it in line with the frame, IE if you had mounted it at 45 degrees say.

I did this on my Vision (mine needed right trim) and it flies mint now. Is it not parameter A however?

[Rotorhead]

I've done this mixing on almost every heli I've ever owned, and they've all been clockwise rotation. The mix directions have always been as stated. Only time you're likely to see the mixes reversed would be a counter-clockwise rotating head.

But not impossible.

On my 700 they where actually the opposite, it tended to try to roll left when applying up elevator.

[Eckchaz]

I did this on my Vision (mine needed right trim) and it flies mint now. Is it not parameter A however?

Where did u adjust yours mate?

[Planehazza]

Where did u adjust yours mate?

Parameter A. Mine was leaning to the left on climbouts, so I added right trim via that parameter and it's perfect now. I often wonder if I should go back and adjust it mechanically, and get the parameter A back to neutral, but it flies so mint I don't want to tinker with it

[waveydavey]

Doh, I did mean A. You'll probably find that the swash and where the Beast is mounted isn't parallel. Interaction is the if your adding say roll cyclic you get a bit of elevator at the same time. It's difficult to get rid of completely but you shouldn't have this problem with fbl.

Already corrected planehazza

[Eckchaz]

I did this on my Vision (mine needed right trim) and it flies mint now. Is it not parameter A however?

Yeah.. sorry mate, we've already established that!

I asked as I read... "its not A" and not "is it not"!

[scallybert]

[...]
Phasing will also be affected by choice of blades, paddles and head speed.

I've just been reading something about this, and the text is talking about the relationship between the natural frequency of a certain blade oscillation mode, and the head speed. (ie - as you say.)

However,

The advantage of mechanical adjustment on those helis that are lucky enough to have an adjustable phasing ring is that this system of tweaking isn't head speed dependent, so once it's right there's one less thing to worry about in the mix.

Why should this be ?

Surely both mechanical adjustment and doing this through aileron/elevator mixes are both independant of head-speed ?

So, both would need to be changed as the phasing error varied with headpseed ?

[Steve]

Not so sure on the mechanical vs electronic adjustment answer scallybert. It's just that I understand the adjustments as it was explained to me be a certain Mr Christy Jnr.

Have a read here for more info -> http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/setup-...te-timing.html

The only thing I could offer on the mechanical issue is that it has something to do with the fact that the swash plate (i.e. both the inner and outer rings) are still moving in a true elevator and aileron direction with no mixing, and that the phasing adjustment is enacted more purely at the head block rather than lower down the head at the swash plate?

[Rotorhead]

It isnt independant of RPM, changing anything like the RPM, the blades, or the tightness of the blade bolts can change the lead/lag angle, and it is this that adjusting the phasing is for.

I wouldnt have thought the paddles would have much effect at all as the flybar and paddles are not free to lead or lag other than a very very small lag angle due to the flybar flexing with respect to the head due to paddle drag.

[Cuppa]

As i am quite a simple bloke i tend to look for simple reasons to cause and effect, not wanting to seem like i'm trying to teach anyone to suck eggs but i feel most fazing issues are down to mechanical set up, one of the main ones i think is ele 'A' arm not spot on center on Trex 600 and 700. there is no subsistute for a good mechanical set up near enough won't do! this realy makes a diferance on a FBL heli, it is most important to make sure the washout base (fazing lock on fbl) is locked off so the levers are paralell to center respectivly. i know there are other things that may be considerd ,but a spot on mechanical base to work from saves trying to iron out the bumps moving them round the TX mix and on what ever gyro or fbl system you choose applys i feel
Anyway the longer it takes the better the result!

[moyesboy]

Surely the flybar doesn't flex much? or it would secentually snap off surely?

i find that my 600n flybar and 450(with align head) both go a bit left on up elevator (need right correction). My 500 is quite a lot less prone to it.

On my 600 I adjusted the phasing a little by offsetting the plastic anti rotation post (packing it one side and shaving it down on the other).

It beats me why they didn't make the A arm upgrade on the elevator adjustable from side to side a bit.

Swash mis ix an approximation of phase angleadjustment. It isn't exactly right as the controls don't add up exactly, and are worse if you use Expo on elevator and aileron. Ie at 45 degrees (half elevator, half aileron) the phase change is not the same as straight up elevator. Also the phase change might get more or less as you increase the cyclic throw.

Like all these things though, stick time makes them self correct a lot. I blame sims for masking us fussy. Why isn't the phase error on all the align helis reproduced there?

I'm going to have to get CL1 in the end to play with.

[rachel]

[quote=Cuppa;562103]As i am quite a simple bloke i tend to look for simple reasons to cause and effect, not wanting to seem like i'm trying to teach anyone to suck eggs but i feel most fazing issues are down to mechanical set up, one of the main ones i think is ele 'A' arm not spot on center on Trex 600 and 700. there is no subsistute for a good mechanical set up near enough won't do!

What are you trying to say ?!!!!!!! I am a crapbuilder
I will have you know I once built a fullsize Chinook out of matchmakers (the mint ones) and it lifted a land Rover too !!!!!!
ps I am kidding !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Seriously I built several other helis since my rexy so what is the A arm adjustment you speak of ???
I am aware it must be a mechanical thing as my friends identical 700 is faultless so mine must be a crap build

I really would like mine to fly straight as its much easier

remember all

Flybarless IS the future !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

x Rachel