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Any way to loosen thread lock?

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  • Any way to loosen thread lock?

    On Saturday I was trying to change the dampers in the head of my Gaui X5 FES to the red ones (stiffer dampers). In order to do this it is a case of removing the blades and shoving a 3mm Allen key into each side of the head and undoing the blade grips. So, there I am, an Allen key in each end, and the hex bolts won't budge, so I put a pair of pliers on the Allen key on one side and a wrench on the Allen key on the other side and they still won't budge - the Allen keys are now flexing with the force I'm applying on them. So, I applied a touch more pressure thinking that an Allen key is either going to snap or a bolt will turn; suddenly one of the Allen keys starts turning - I'm thinking great... until I realised I'd just rounded the head on one of the Allen keys (it was one of those cheap Allen keys that came with a bit of Ikea furniture). The hex bolts both look like they are still OK.

    So, that is my preamble... what I'm really trying to ask is, given that Gaui have thread-locked hex bolts in the head something special... has anyone got any idea how to loosen the thread lock? I've thought about taking the head off and immersing it in boiling hot water, but I'm firstly not sure that would do a lot of good, and secondly don't really want to take the head off unless necessary as it was a pig to get on in the first place.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Current: Gaui X5 FES (Spartan Vortex) : Trex 450 Pro DFC (BeastX) : Blade 130X : Blade mCPX : Blade Nano CPX
    Sim: Phoenix v4
    TX: 14sg : DX7s

  • #2
    Get some HEX plus allen keys !

    and try putting the end of a soldering iron on one of the bolts for a while, If not then heat up an old allen key (Hot, REAL hot) poke it in there for a bit to soften the thred lock then try to remove with good hex keys.

    You really dont want to mess about, round the bolts out and your in a whole new world of PITA !!!
    ​SWRCH , Oh.. And a Helix 700 Gasser, Hv with SK540.....with SAB HPS head.

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    • #3
      MIP Thorp keys, and a lot of heat to melt the thread lock
      Trex 600 ESP (Turnigy T600, DS821, DS620, GP750, 120A) sold
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      http://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSouthport?feature=mhum

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      • #4
        You need to use a high powered soldering iron on the end of the bolts to try to get a bit of heat through to the threadlock. Failing that, strip the head down as much as possible and use a mini-blowtorch in the shaft. You will lose the dampers and a thrust bearing, but the rest of the blade grip/main head etc will be fine as it's all ally.

        The thing to learn from this is that with threadlock, particularly in an area like that, that less is more! Also, don't use the red stuff anywhere on your helicopter.
        Very proud to be an Align-Trex.co.uk Team Pilot!

        SAB
        Goblin 700 / V-Bar Blueline 5.3 Pro
        Trex 600 EFL Pro / V-Bar Silverline 5.3 Pro
        Trex 500 FBL /
        Beast X
        Futaba 8FG

        Proud Owner of 2 EGS Awards

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        • #5
          Thanks people, I'll get some new stronger Allen keys as suggested and then try using the soldering iron on the bolt. ... what could possibly go wrong?... if I set the house on fire or burn my hand off I'll let you know.
          Current: Gaui X5 FES (Spartan Vortex) : Trex 450 Pro DFC (BeastX) : Blade 130X : Blade mCPX : Blade Nano CPX
          Sim: Phoenix v4
          TX: 14sg : DX7s

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          • #6
            just get proper allen keys Im sure youll be fine.

            Ive always used as much blue threadlock as I think I can safely get away with in my heads, and I can always get them undone with some decent allen keys.
            NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
            TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
            | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
            Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dani_r View Post
              Also, don't use the red stuff anywhere on your helicopter.
              Unless you fly a Nitro, you need it on the clutch bolts, and flywheel nut.
              Henseleit TDR V-Bar x2
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              • #8
                I really don't think you need that much heat. I had a stucky and I dropped my iron's temperature to 150 deg C and held the tip on the tiny bolt for about three seconds then got the a-key in there quickish and it came out a treat without baking the surrounding area. That's a slow three count not a quick one (4-5 seconds?)

                Just worried that too much heat will traverse metal parts and start to damage plastic or CF.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rctintin View Post
                  Unless you fly a Nitro, you need it on the clutch bolts, and flywheel nut.
                  Is that the trick to stopping the clutch Unwinding itself then Rob?
                  I have always used blue & am forever having to remove the engine re do clutch with more blue locktite at.
                  I have a velocity with os 55 here I may just try some red on
                  Martin
                  Aka RCSlopesurfer

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                  • #10
                    how can you tell the clutch has come off a bit? Do you just see its come off a bit?

                    Ive recently got a nitro and interested to know how to avoid catastrophic failures!
                    NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
                    TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
                    | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
                    Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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                    • #11
                      When they come undone they lock the whole starter shaft up mate.
                      Martin
                      Aka RCSlopesurfer

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                      • #12
                        New Allen keys on order. I'll try a little heat first as Vikki suggests, and if that fails, then I'll try a little bit more... I'll keep going like that until something gives (although if I have to apply too much heat, then I'll remove the head).
                        Current: Gaui X5 FES (Spartan Vortex) : Trex 450 Pro DFC (BeastX) : Blade 130X : Blade mCPX : Blade Nano CPX
                        Sim: Phoenix v4
                        TX: 14sg : DX7s

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rctintin View Post
                          Unless you fly a Nitro, you need it on the clutch bolts, and flywheel nut.
                          ...apart from those bits Electric flyer talking! lol
                          Very proud to be an Align-Trex.co.uk Team Pilot!

                          SAB
                          Goblin 700 / V-Bar Blueline 5.3 Pro
                          Trex 600 EFL Pro / V-Bar Silverline 5.3 Pro
                          Trex 500 FBL /
                          Beast X
                          Futaba 8FG

                          Proud Owner of 2 EGS Awards

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by dani_r View Post
                            Also, don't use the red stuff anywhere on your helicopter.
                            Forgive me if I'm wrong, but red is/was(in my engineering days) the weakest one, then blue, (stronger) and then green, (you may as well have welded it on). Just checked my bottles (catering size lol) and they are as I have suggested, or do you mean use a stronger one than red on the clutch??
                            Andy
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by rcslopesurfer View Post
                              When they come undone they lock the whole starter shaft up mate.
                              So its not gonna spin off in flight and cause everything to explode?

                              I'm not 100% confident in the strength of my red thread lock you see. I used plenty...but I Dont use it a lot and any time I have used it i've been able to remove the part its on reasonably easily.
                              NONE OF THE BELOW HELI'S ARE OWNED BY ME ANY MORE
                              TT Raptor G4 + Vbar
                              | MCPX V1 + HP05 Brushless & All the upgrades | 130x Stock | Henseleit TDR 2013 +Vbar | 450L DOMINATOR 6S + Mini Kbar | Logo 550SX +Vbar Mini
                              Proud wearer of the EGS award!

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