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I'm such a noob I could kick myself.
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Nothing wrong with a heli that is difficult to fly, so long as you know it's the heli and not you. You can't have too many either, or batteries or chargers.Flasher 450 Sport. Assan GA250 with 520 tail servo, MKS DS450 cyclic.
Multiplex Cockpit Tx, DX7, DX6i
Blade 130-X, MSR, MSRX
Phoenix Sim
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Think it's a bit of both at the moment, sharp learning curve, noticed I had not setup pitch and thro curve on my dx6i for the mcpx, so I've just sorted that. Also the main gear dropping is a pain, seems it have to set it every 3 or 4 crashes.
Glad I have lots of spares at a bargin as I get the impression I'm going to need them
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Think of the main gear drop as a safety feature, it absorbs some of the energy in a crash that might otherwise break something.
Check it after every crash, only takes a second.
Have you done the link retainer mod yet?Trex 600 ESP (Turnigy T600, DS821, DS620, GP750, 120A) sold
Trex 450 Pro (MD933 DS520, BeastX, 40A HW, 450MX)
450SEV2
mCPX
Recycloquad (tm)
Flying Legends Spitfire (rest in pieces)
Edge 540 Foamy
AXN Floater Jet
MDC F-14 Tomcat
Depron BAE Hawk
DX6i, gt power a606, imax b6, A-6-10
http://www.youtube.com/user/PaulSouthport?feature=mhum
www.thedailymice.com
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Hi Guys,
Im Back, been flying the Blade mCPX for a few months now and WOW, what a fantastic heli to learn on. Not done any 3d yet, still a way off that!!!!
Anyway, I still have two King Bee 3`s to play with, problem is I just cannot get them to work with the DX6I. Believe the pairing is fine, it just wont spin up. Anyone got any links to the DX6i settings for the King Bee 3? Ive searched and found fragments of settings but just cannot get any to work.
Cheers, Lee.
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Excellent choice on the mcpx and dx6i, Im very knew myself and unfortunately threw money at the hobby to start as I was trying to run before I could walk, I have purchased 22 helis and to me personally the cp3 was the worst of them all I ended up throwing it in the bin
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Glad you're enjoying the mcpx, I love mine but its getting no attention now the 450 is sorted, I know nothing about the cp3 but from what i've heard i'd sell the pair of them together and put the money to a clone 450 kit to build from scratch, This will teach you the skills you need after a mishap
DX8
Phoenix
RealFlight 7
Mcpx BL
Trex 550 DFC with Vx1n
Trex 700 DFC Pro Hv with Vx1n
Zmr250 mini H Quad racer
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That brings back some memories - I started off with a honeybee King 2 crashed it - repaired it, crashed it - repaired it - (repeat several times) then accidentally reversed the throttle channel and smashed it into my warehouse ceiling (it didn't like that very much), repaired it then sold it and got a Trex 450 and never looked back.
Always new lessons to learn but moving on up to a 450 size (when you feel right about it) is the way to go, mind you it will scare the living **** out of you at first then you will wonder what all the fuss was about - you will then tell yourself that you will never ever get anything bigger, until you try out a 500 etc etc - my signature tells my story lol
Good luck with your progress buddy.
Cheers,Simon

BNUC-S certified
---Guinness World Record Pilot 2011 & 2012---
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Thanks for the reply guys, Must admit, looking back at my CP3 crash, it does make me chuckle, but I was horrified at the time!!! Ok, Im been convinced to ditch the CP3, I was going to just give it a whirl to see what she did fly like if I could get her above 3 feet off the ground without pile driving into my house roof.Originally posted by asomaro View PostThat brings back some memories - I started off with a honeybee King 2 crashed it - repaired it, crashed it - repaired it - (repeat several times) then accidentally reversed the throttle channel and smashed it into my warehouse ceiling (it didn't like that very much), repaired it then sold it and got a Trex 450 and never looked back.
Always new lessons to learn but moving on up to a 450 size (when you feel right about it) is the way to go, mind you it will scare the living **** out of you at first then you will wonder what all the fuss was about - you will then tell yourself that you will never ever get anything bigger, until you try out a 500 etc etc - my signature tells my story lol
Good luck with your progress buddy.
Cheers,
So the Trex 450. It does look good and some fantastic reviews, but admit im confused. It seems you can get the normal model etc for around £350 but that comes with a transmitter, however as I dont need one (having the DX6i) the model without the transmitter is even more expensive!!! So what Im really after is whats the best 450 model for me to go for that will work out of the box(onces paired with my Dx6i) and thats good for a beginner? Doesnt have to be a Trex. I dont want to have another goof as I did shelling out on the CP3.
Thanks gents, as usual your advice is appreciated.Last edited by Rustyrifles; 30-07-2012, 10:09 AM.
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I feel sorry for any noob who has bought an Esky CP3 for there first model. What a waste of money.
Im not against Esky helis , infact I quite like them having owned both Honey Bee King 2 and Belt CP's. They are nice flyers in standard trim if you have a gentle flying style. But not the CP3. A couple of days ago my lad brought a CP3 around for repair it had been bought by his boss. With the big case etc had cost just shy of £200 , and been sold as the ideal beginners model with everything included.
The bosses experience was short and not so sweet. You know how it goes:- open the box,, plug in and switch on , twiddle the sticks and crash because it had a " mind of its own". None of this is the CP3 fault so far .
A quick scan , thought :- blades, feathering shaft, mainshaft and flybar. Sorted . About £30 max.
A full check of everything revealed a different story , a total £ £93 plus post. Because the 4 in 1 mixer had "popped" , two servos completely dead and the 3rd moved fast one way and returned slowly. Battery balance leads had melted together.
The "Boss" hadn't realised that "ready to fly" really means ready to be tested and trimmed out. And more importantly " if you have crashed or landed badly " shut the throttle " straight away and disconnect the battery. stalled electric motor draw a lot of current particularly brushed motors and generating a lot of heat. Same goes for stalled servos etc.
A quick search of the forums reveal that the "Boss's" problems are common ( confirmed by the fact the mixer is out of stock at several retailers) with th CP3 Hence the popular "fuss mod" , which consist of fitting high speed fuses in line with the main and tail motors to protect the mixer board etc.
I think that if a heli is designed for beginners , part of the engineering brief should consider the flyers lack of practical knowledge as well as flying ability and I would have expected the electronics to have been designed with an over- current switch off function as some stand- alone esc have.
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I agree with you. Life is not like that though and shops have to make a profit. Some take this a bit far though. Very few people know how to get the best advice when starting something new, and even less want the good advice. The "It does 100mph" cartoon is quite good. There are very few forums like this one where people are really helpful and usually give good advice. The cartoon is about a beginners first approach to a club. There's another about competition flyers and one about non flying partners and their unreasonable attitude.Originally posted by royotr View PostI feel sorry for any noob who has bought an Esky CP3 for there first model. What a waste of money.
Im not against Esky helis , infact I quite like them having owned both Honey Bee King 2 and Belt CP's. They are nice flyers in standard trim if you have a gentle flying style. But not the CP3. A couple of days ago my lad brought a CP3 around for repair it had been bought by his boss. With the big case etc had cost just shy of £200 , and been sold as the ideal beginners model with everything included.
The bosses experience was short and not so sweet. You know how it goes:- open the box,, plug in and switch on , twiddle the sticks and crash because it had a " mind of its own". None of this is the CP3 fault so far .
A quick scan , thought :- blades, feathering shaft, mainshaft and flybar. Sorted . About £30 max.
A full check of everything revealed a different story , a total £ £93 plus post. Because the 4 in 1 mixer had "popped" , two servos completely dead and the 3rd moved fast one way and returned slowly. Battery balance leads had melted together.
The "Boss" hadn't realised that "ready to fly" really means ready to be tested and trimmed out. And more importantly " if you have crashed or landed badly " shut the throttle " straight away and disconnect the battery. stalled electric motor draw a lot of current particularly brushed motors and generating a lot of heat. Same goes for stalled servos etc.
A quick search of the forums reveal that the "Boss's" problems are common ( confirmed by the fact the mixer is out of stock at several retailers) with th CP3 Hence the popular "fuss mod" , which consist of fitting high speed fuses in line with the main and tail motors to protect the mixer board etc.
I think that if a heli is designed for beginners , part of the engineering brief should consider the flyers lack of practical knowledge as well as flying ability and I would have expected the electronics to have been designed with an over- current switch off function as some stand- alone esc have.Flasher 450 Sport. Assan GA250 with 520 tail servo, MKS DS450 cyclic.
Multiplex Cockpit Tx, DX7, DX6i
Blade 130-X, MSR, MSRX
Phoenix Sim
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Shops may have to make a profit, but that doesn't mean they're allowed to sell any old tat to do it!
Arguably the CP2/3 is "not of merchantable quality" as I find it hard to believe anyone who understands what they are trying to do with a helicopter would recommend it to anyone else (hands up if you would?)
Selling it as "ready to fly" without an obvious disclaimer of what that means also seems fraught with danger. If I bought a car sold as "ready to drive", I wouldn't expect to have to check it over for loose components, adjust the carburation, re align the steering rack and adjust the brakes before it is safe to drive on the roads!Neil H: Certified
compatible.
P&M Quantum 912 Golf Charlie Foxtrot Bravo Mike
Trex500ESP/ds760;BeamE4/Jazz/2221-8/GY401;WOT4e
Contributor to http://www.rcheliwiki.com
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They are allowed to sell any old tat. It's called capitalism. So long as you can persuade the average customer that it's all their fault then they are ok. I thought we accepted that we have to take things apart and reassemble to make sure the parts have been loctited. We are dealing with hobby products and not consumer items. When you know enough to recognize a piece of old tat then you can get your money back, so long as you are good enough to fly the old tat without crashing it.
I think it is bad that a lot of retailers assume that the customer is at fault and argue their case with no evidence. Possibly they feel that anyone who they've sold the old tat to doesn't know much about it, or he wouldn't have bought it in the first place. It's not just our hobby either.
Warranties are a good laugh as well. I have one on my Toyota and the car radio randomly decides to not allow me to put cds in or take them out or to respond to the buttons on the front. I've contacted the dealer and he needs an assessor to come and look at it. I expect I'll be told it's an intermittent fault and so it's not covered. I also have a car battery with a three year warranty. Nobody seems to know what the warranty covers. No specification of failure makes it difficult to claim for failure under the warranty.Flasher 450 Sport. Assan GA250 with 520 tail servo, MKS DS450 cyclic.
Multiplex Cockpit Tx, DX7, DX6i
Blade 130-X, MSR, MSRX
Phoenix Sim
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I'm back!!! So been flying my mcpx for nearly a year, changed most parts inc the frame, pretty good at flying nose in,out,left and right but not done inverted flight just yet. Have the Phoenix 4 sim which was awesome for practicing on. Just love it, however , feel its time to get a bigger one, and as usual came here for some sound advice. I'm pretty much looking at the trex 450 but to be honest the options are over whelming. Do I get kit form and build, or a rtf version, and indeed which version... So many. But any experience/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Lee.
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