Still struggling with my RL10, seem to spend the first 2 flights of every session trying to get it to work, then I switch it off and get on with flying. Was going to try the mechanical exponential trick on the throttle link but TT pushrod won't shorten enough. Think I'm going to remove the governor completely for now. It'll be good practise fine tuning the curve anyway.
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my revlocks have always been faultless with the minor exception of being a little over-zelous when it backs off the throttle on fast descents (until i reduced the gain using the pot).
Back to the topic, for a lot of mild 3d there is no need at all for a governor, and in actual fact they make you lazy. You dont have to set up throttle curves, just set it to be above 25% (or whatever the cut in point is for your governor) and let the electronics do their job. This however will cause you to come unstuck one day, be it when your sensor fails, the magnet throws off or any other governor failure as it will then resort to your cures which could lead to a wild overspeed.
Personally, i start with making sure the end points on the throttle servo are equal and around 110% each way if possible, with a square 90degree geometry on the linkage to the carb barrel and servo horn. Then i always tune the engine with the governor disabled, then set up the throttle curves and p-mixes to get the head speed as constant as possible. Once im happy that all this is ok, then switch the governor on, select your engine speed and see how it behaves. the most ive ever had to do from here on in is to adjust the gain to stop it from backing off too much.
Jamie
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Thanks Jamie,,
Think i'll use it without for now and wait till I get over to u sometime in the new year.
Did have it running well for about "two" flghts last year so know it can be done,
BTW 3Dbasher I'm fed up with typing as well,,
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