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  • 5hane
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisrw View Post
    I use the miniaviation 220mah - they give a much better run time.
    Did u have the 4 port charger with the msr? If so use that. The single cell charger with the msrx is very crude.
    I use the 4 port e-flight charger to charge all my batts for the mcpx, msrx, nano cpx and even my little hubsan x4 (with adaptor cable).
    Have fun with the msrx, its very still here today - if you have a nice open space (with long grass) you might get away with a gentle outdoor flight too...
    Not realising that RTF MSR's don't all came with the 4 cell charger, I was disappointed when I was confronted with the single cell charger.
    Eventually i decided to order the mains lead for it (eBay £5), which was obviously cheaper than buying a 4 cell charger. I also read that the 4 cell charger only goes up to 160mah (less than the single cell goes up to). I have no issues with only having the one cell to be honest.
    I would loved to have taken it out today but sadly no time. Have to wait until Monday now

    Leave a comment:


  • Peteski
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisrw View Post
    Did u have the 4 port charger with the msr? If so use that. The single cell charger with the msrx is very crude.
    That's almost a good excuse to buy an msr. Might have to do the man-maths on it! I wonder if the msrx (bnf version) comes with that charger too? Edit: Scrap that idea, it doesn't even come with a battery!

    Leave a comment:


  • Peteski
    replied
    Originally posted by 5hane View Post
    I have now ditched the AA's for the eflite mains cable as charging the lipos using batteries was makes no financial sense at all, although would be an obvious benefit out in the field I guess.
    That's a good idea, I need to get an adapter too. I've also got one of those little usb dongle chargers, which has been pretty handy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chrisrw
    replied
    I use the miniaviation 220mah - they give a much better run time.
    Did u have the 4 port charger with the msr? If so use that. The single cell charger with the msrx is very crude.
    I use the 4 port e-flight charger to charge all my batts for the mcpx, msrx, nano cpx and even my little hubsan x4 (with adaptor cable).
    Have fun with the msrx, its very still here today - if you have a nice open space (with long grass) you might get away with a gentle outdoor flight too...

    Leave a comment:


  • 5hane
    replied
    So the MSRX proudly makes the signature, so yes it's day 2 and it's still in one piece
    Still trying to get my head around the tx, but i changed the expo from 15 to 25% and that has certainly helped a little.
    This thing eats batteries so I am now experiencing the benefits of the tx's timer function, and im glad I have now ditched the AA's for the eflite mains cable as charging the lipos using batteries was makes no financial sense at all, although would be an obvious benefit out in the field I guess.

    Leave a comment:


  • 5hane
    replied
    Originally posted by tomatwalden View Post
    Welcome to flying RC helis! All CP are like that ... this page gives the best analogy in my view.. Are RC Helicopters Hard To Fly?
    The balancing a ball bearing on an upturned bowl analogy certainly rings true

    Leave a comment:


  • Peteski
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisrw View Post
    Ok on Peteski's comments - the nqx will be invaluable for damage limitation for orientation practice, but I would recommend using the agility mode as much as possible (even in the house and just use your second D/R position for a tamer response). The self levelling modes are nothing like flying a heli (even the msrx) and much closer to flying a 45deg fly bared toy heli (like the syma's etc). If you can fly it with no self levelling (I believe this is only possible in the agility mode) even with reduced throw and plenty of expo you will be much better prepared for the jump to CP (or even a FP like the 200SRx)
    Agree completely on flying the nQX in agility mode to closely simulate a CP heli and a sensitive one at that. For me it behaves just like the smaller CP helis do on the sim and makes the 600 size helis feel like slow motion.

    However, stability mode is not remotely similar to flying a toy co-axial heli. Even though it limits max pitch/roll angles and obviously self-levels, it's still about 10 times faster and more responsive than my Syma or mCX2 co-axials and if you are thrashing it around the room it won't self-level instantly. Actually it continues to fly on in whatever direction it was pointed rather than recover to a hover. But it does make it a LOT easier to fly flat out in a small room, which is when I use it. I can fly it okay in agility mode now too, but I find it just runs out of space indoors when you start pushing it a bit. But great for skill development and I'm getting faster by the day in agility mode. If I was attempting this sort of learning curve with say a NanoCPX I would have destroyed most of the furniture by now!

    I was half joking btw in my post above as I've been banging on to 5hane about how good the nQX is for a while. But honestly it is just the ticket to rapid indoor progress. My mCX2 is nothing like as useful in this respect. It's just way too easy to fly and not very responsive at all.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomatwalden
    replied
    Originally posted by 5hane View Post
    .. unlike the MSR it wont swing back to the middle, it just keeps going until you bring it back (if that makes sense), and very slight stick movements are all it takes to lose it....
    Welcome to flying RC helis! All CP are like that ... this page gives the best analogy in my view.. Are RC Helicopters Hard To Fly?

    Leave a comment:


  • 5hane
    replied
    Originally posted by Paul_basildon_helis View Post
    The trick is once spooled up to get the heli off the ground quickly to around a foot or two and you won't notice any more drifting/tipping again,if you do then there's a physical problem to find!
    also if your taking off on a hard surface then put the heli on a mouse pad, car Matt or even a towel to stop vibes coming back up the skids and messing around with the gyro!
    Both of these tips gave me confidence in my micro helis as I was suffering with the same issues and not getting anywhere.
    Hi Paul. Good tip....will def try the mouse mat launch. Hopefully no physical problem yet. I can get the heli int a stable hover, its just getting used to how it acts compared to the MSR... unlike the MSR it wont swing back to the middle, it just keeps going until you bring it back (if that makes sense), and very slight stick movements are all it takes to lose it. I was hoping new settings would have tamed it more noticeably, so i guess its now down to practice.

    Leave a comment:


  • 5hane
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisrw View Post
    Once you get used to the left lurch on takeoff it really is a pretty stable little heli. I know people say don't give it any aileron before takeoff (as this can confuse the AS3X) but if your lift off's are positive and quick you can actually have about 30% right aileron (assuming using 70%/15% dr/expo) before even using any throttle and as soon as it pops up let the stick centre and it will just lift straight up. Alternatively just a little bip to the right after liftoff will stop it drifting (but it will still move half a foot or so before stopping).
    Ok on Peteski's comments - the nqx will be invaluable for damage limitation for orientation practice, but I would recommend using the agility mode as much as possible (even in the house and just use your second D/R position for a tamer response). The self levelling modes are nothing like flying a heli (even the msrx) and much closer to flying a 45deg fly bared toy heli (like the syma's etc). If you can fly it with no self levelling (I believe this is only possible in the agility mode) even with reduced throw and plenty of expo you will be much better prepared for the jump to CP (or even a FP like the 200SRx). To try and put it in perspective (as it was for me anyway!) The difference between way in which the msrx slides around (i.e. keeps going after cyclic input) from a 45deg fly barred heli (toy) was quite a jump for me - going from the msrx to full CP was a bigger jump yet. Hovering, and moving around in a slow hover on a CP was fairly similar, but as soon as you start to fly (rather than hover) with a collective pitch you suddenly realise how easy it is to 'slide' into the ground - the FP helis (msrx, 200SRx etx) tend to much easier to 'pull' out of a turn etc. I don't understand the physics off it, but the nature of the fixed curvature of the blades seem to make the heli jump back upright (even if you are sloppy with the cyclic giving enough rudder can bring you back up). On the CP's you have to be spot on or you are eating the dirt!
    Let me know how you do with the msrx - I still love it and fly it quite often still when I can't get out.
    Thank you so much. I am pretty sure ive setup the tx as the link described, but my god its complicated. That or im just a bit dim. I basically followed the directions but my brain was hurting when trying to understand it all.... Google is taking a right pounding as i look up the jargon. I have to be honest and say I can only just tell the differance with the new settings. Apparently you can switch between mixes using the Gyro switch, but do i use position 0 or 1, and does position 0 = mix 1 and position 1 = mix 2?
    Also, how did someone even come up with these MSRX settings, a degree in mathematics probably.
    Last edited by 5hane; 22-01-2015, 10:31 PM.

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  • French Paul
    replied
    The trick is once spooled up to get the heli off the ground quickly to around a foot or two and you won't notice any more drifting/tipping again,if you do then there's a physical problem to find!
    also if your taking off on a hard surface then put the heli on a mouse pad, car Matt or even a towel to stop vibes coming back up the skids and messing around with the gyro!
    Both of these tips gave me confidence in my micro helis as I was suffering with the same issues and not getting anywhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chrisrw
    replied
    Oh yes! But I'm assuming it's gets much more obvious as the helis get smaller? I don't really notice it taking off with the 130x or 450x but maybe that's just because I got so used to it with the msrx?! I'm going to have to pay more attention next time I fly!...
    I'm only a beginner too (since oct-nov last year) but completely hooked now - being able to actually fly the 450 doing simple circuits and basic banked turns is just so much fun. As for the lazy 8 I'm still finding that almost impossible. I can do a few flying figure 8's but hovering a fig 8 I just can't get it. I think I need to get some more serious hovering practice in...
    Last edited by Chrisrw; 22-01-2015, 08:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomatwalden
    replied
    You guys know the "left lurch" is normal? The mSRX does have an issue (hence the MMmod), but the issue is the rudder levelling the swash. All (single rotor) helis will drift left on take off ...

    Leave a comment:


  • Chrisrw
    replied
    Once you get used to the left lurch on takeoff it really is a pretty stable little heli. I know people say don't give it any aileron before takeoff (as this can confuse the AS3X) but if your lift off's are positive and quick you can actually have about 30% right aileron (assuming using 70%/15% dr/expo) before even using any throttle and as soon as it pops up let the stick centre and it will just lift straight up. Alternatively just a little bip to the right after liftoff will stop it drifting (but it will still move half a foot or so before stopping).
    Ok on Peteski's comments - the nqx will be invaluable for damage limitation for orientation practice, but I would recommend using the agility mode as much as possible (even in the house and just use your second D/R position for a tamer response). The self levelling modes are nothing like flying a heli (even the msrx) and much closer to flying a 45deg fly bared toy heli (like the syma's etc). If you can fly it with no self levelling (I believe this is only possible in the agility mode) even with reduced throw and plenty of expo you will be much better prepared for the jump to CP (or even a FP like the 200SRx). To try and put it in perspective (as it was for me anyway!) The difference between way in which the msrx slides around (i.e. keeps going after cyclic input) from a 45deg fly barred heli (toy) was quite a jump for me - going from the msrx to full CP was a bigger jump yet. Hovering, and moving around in a slow hover on a CP was fairly similar, but as soon as you start to fly (rather than hover) with a collective pitch you suddenly realise how easy it is to 'slide' into the ground - the FP helis (msrx, 200SRx etx) tend to much easier to 'pull' out of a turn etc. I don't understand the physics off it, but the nature of the fixed curvature of the blades seem to make the heli jump back upright (even if you are sloppy with the cyclic giving enough rudder can bring you back up). On the CP's you have to be spot on or you are eating the dirt!
    Let me know how you do with the msrx - I still love it and fly it quite often still when I can't get out.

    Leave a comment:


  • 5hane
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisrw View Post
    Hi,
    Try this link:
    http://ganninger.de/DX6i-mSRX.pdf
    It the one a lot of people start with.
    I would try just limiting servo to start (70% DR on elev and aile) with whatever expo you prefer (+10% to +30% etc). If you are already using little or no expo (in the sim or on the msrx) be careful as too much will be confusing. I now use a lot of negative expo (-50%) as I want the msrx to be quite sensitive (on -50% it's still less responsive than my CP helis on +15%!).
    The mix settings (mix1 and 2) on the link will help with turns initially - I don't use them now but they helped at first.
    When doing the MMmod I'm not sure if the mix settings should be enabled - they may counteract what your trying to correct. Anyway, to do the MMmod (which is just changing the length of the swash links) you need to be able to get into a stable hover and then adjust the TX trims to make the msrx come off heading lock - and then watch to see which direction it starts to slide - to do this you may need some reasonable control over the heli to start.
    Cheers very much for that. I will take some time to decipher the instructions so that I know what im actually doing to the TX
    Sounds silly but i was actually quite excited just getting this thing off the ground and into a hover so quickly having read all the horror story's. I probably owe that to starting with the MSR.

    Leave a comment:

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