considering the hobby

[tomatwalden]

I found it easier to understand by just looking at the graphs on the radio when playing with the D/R & Expo values. Rate (D/R) just limits the maximum servo travel (or in the case of the nQX limits maximum pitch and roll rates) and the Expo basically just reduces stick sensitivity around the centre point, but keeps the same maximum rates i.e. the rate ramps up as you move the stick more.

I'm being slightly pedantic here, but dual rates (DR) don't limit servo travel. They limit the amount of travel requested by the TX. The controller on board the heli may still use full servo travel if required (eg. to keep the heli stable in windy conditions)

Minor point I grant you, but worth knowing!

EDIT : My statement above is true of modern RC helis with flybarless controllers and quads. Old flybarred helis did indeed have servo travel limited by DR.

[Peteski]

I'm being slightly pedantic here, but dual rates (DR) don't limit servo travel. They limit the amount of travel requested by the TX. The controller on board the heli may still use full servo travel if required (eg. to keep the heli stable in windy conditions)

Minor point I grant you, but worth knowing!

I was just trying to keep it simple. I'm sure I'll be learning it all again when I get a big CP heli! Of course with the nQX it's all electronic control anyway as there are no servos to worry about. All I need to know right now is that 70% D/R reduces the maximum rates by some 30% and increasing expo makes the stick less sensitive around the centre e.g. +10% Expo is fairly subtle and +40% feels like quite a lot. I find the response curves displayed on the radio screen very helpful for setting D/R and Exp together.

[5hane]

I almost bought an mSRX from there too the other day, does look a good deal. Decided to stick with the nQX for now though. After a lot of practice I can hover it in all orientations pretty confidently with all the stability aids switched off. Finding it even easier on the sim, so guess it's working. I'd really like to get an advanced micro heli too, but they seem a bit hit or miss out of the box. Hope you get a good one!

In my stubbornness I went for the MSRX, but still appreciate the nQX suggestion. Keeping my fingers crossed it's a good'n.

[Chrisrw]

Hi guys - good luck with the msrx's. I've beem out today flying circuirs with my blade 450x - all of which I wouldnt have thought possible back in november when I got the msrx.It definately a good next step. Do look up the MMmod (helps with stability turning) on the msrx.

[Peteski]

In my stubbornness I went for the MSRX, but still appreciate the nQX suggestion. Keeping my fingers crossed it's a good'n.

At least it's actually a heli! The mSRX is one I'm sure I'd enjoy right now, but think I'll wait until I get a bit better and then probably jump to a mCPX BL for the garden. I've kind of given up on getting an advanced house micro heli for the moment. I think it would be a bit pointless just hovering as I can do that with the nQX and sim all day long. Having said that I'm still sorely tempted by both the mSRX and nano CPX!

[5hane]

Hi guys - good luck with the msrx's. I've beem out today flying circuirs with my blade 450x - all of which I wouldnt have thought possible back in november when I got the msrx.It definately a good next step. Do look up the MMmod (helps with stability turning) on the msrx.

Didn't take you long to progress then. I will look up the mm mod everyone keeps mentioning. So is the standard thing to do: Bind as described in the MSRX manual, then do the mm mod? No messing with the DX6i settings, which is probably a good thing as that's still way over my head.

[5hane]

Just had my first flight of the MSRX.
First impressions; it feels very different to the MSR. No more TBE and so feels more stable, but I don't think it wont last very long unless I can somehow make the sticks less responsive. I had my first prang after just 30 secs as this thing is so quick. The instructions made me laugh, suggesting i take off without using any input from the right stick. That's fine for those that like taking off sideways lol. I don't think the MSRX survive another hit.

Before my next flight I would just like to ask what I should do to tame down the controls? I've read several different suggestions online, all of which are different to each other.
Is there a simple proven guide I can be linked to that works?
I hear lots of talk of the MM Mod, but I would have thought it best to tame the controls down first before physically messing with the heli.

Thanks

[Chrisrw]

Hi,
Try this link:
http://ganninger.de/DX6i-mSRX.pdf
It the one a lot of people start with.
I would try just limiting servo to start (70% DR on elev and aile) with whatever expo you prefer (+10% to +30% etc). If you are already using little or no expo (in the sim or on the msrx) be careful as too much will be confusing. I now use a lot of negative expo (-50%) as I want the msrx to be quite sensitive (on -50% it's still less responsive than my CP helis on +15%!).
The mix settings (mix1 and 2) on the link will help with turns initially - I don't use them now but they helped at first.
When doing the MMmod I'm not sure if the mix settings should be enabled - they may counteract what your trying to correct. Anyway, to do the MMmod (which is just changing the length of the swash links) you need to be able to get into a stable hover and then adjust the TX trims to make the msrx come off heading lock - and then watch to see which direction it starts to slide - to do this you may need some reasonable control over the heli to start.

[Peteski]

5hane, what you need for indoor training is a nQX
While you've been fannying around with these temperamental little micro helis, I've logged about 150 flights on my nQX and the only thing worn out is one of the original lipo packs. Just ordered another 4 packs to keep it flying around the house day and night.
Also getting better at controlling it in full-on agility mode (i.e. actually flying it, not just hovering about). A few weeks ago that was only a pipe dream as it's ultra-sensitive in agility mode. Makes the big helis on the sim a piece of cake to fly.

[5hane]

Hi,
Try this link:
http://ganninger.de/DX6i-mSRX.pdf
It the one a lot of people start with.
I would try just limiting servo to start (70% DR on elev and aile) with whatever expo you prefer (+10% to +30% etc). If you are already using little or no expo (in the sim or on the msrx) be careful as too much will be confusing. I now use a lot of negative expo (-50%) as I want the msrx to be quite sensitive (on -50% it's still less responsive than my CP helis on +15%!).
The mix settings (mix1 and 2) on the link will help with turns initially - I don't use them now but they helped at first.
When doing the MMmod I'm not sure if the mix settings should be enabled - they may counteract what your trying to correct. Anyway, to do the MMmod (which is just changing the length of the swash links) you need to be able to get into a stable hover and then adjust the TX trims to make the msrx come off heading lock - and then watch to see which direction it starts to slide - to do this you may need some reasonable control over the heli to start.

Cheers very much for that. I will take some time to decipher the instructions so that I know what im actually doing to the TX
Sounds silly but i was actually quite excited just getting this thing off the ground and into a hover so quickly having read all the horror story's. I probably owe that to starting with the MSR.

[Chrisrw]

Once you get used to the left lurch on takeoff it really is a pretty stable little heli. I know people say don't give it any aileron before takeoff (as this can confuse the AS3X) but if your lift off's are positive and quick you can actually have about 30% right aileron (assuming using 70%/15% dr/expo) before even using any throttle and as soon as it pops up let the stick centre and it will just lift straight up. Alternatively just a little bip to the right after liftoff will stop it drifting (but it will still move half a foot or so before stopping).
Ok on Peteski's comments - the nqx will be invaluable for damage limitation for orientation practice, but I would recommend using the agility mode as much as possible (even in the house and just use your second D/R position for a tamer response). The self levelling modes are nothing like flying a heli (even the msrx) and much closer to flying a 45deg fly bared toy heli (like the syma's etc). If you can fly it with no self levelling (I believe this is only possible in the agility mode) even with reduced throw and plenty of expo you will be much better prepared for the jump to CP (or even a FP like the 200SRx). To try and put it in perspective (as it was for me anyway!) The difference between way in which the msrx slides around (i.e. keeps going after cyclic input) from a 45deg fly barred heli (toy) was quite a jump for me - going from the msrx to full CP was a bigger jump yet. Hovering, and moving around in a slow hover on a CP was fairly similar, but as soon as you start to fly (rather than hover) with a collective pitch you suddenly realise how easy it is to 'slide' into the ground - the FP helis (msrx, 200SRx etx) tend to much easier to 'pull' out of a turn etc. I don't understand the physics off it, but the nature of the fixed curvature of the blades seem to make the heli jump back upright (even if you are sloppy with the cyclic giving enough rudder can bring you back up). On the CP's you have to be spot on or you are eating the dirt!
Let me know how you do with the msrx - I still love it and fly it quite often still when I can't get out.

[tomatwalden]

You guys know the "left lurch" is normal? The mSRX does have an issue (hence the MMmod), but the issue is the rudder levelling the swash. All (single rotor) helis will drift left on take off ...

[Chrisrw]

Oh yes! But I'm assuming it's gets much more obvious as the helis get smaller? I don't really notice it taking off with the 130x or 450x but maybe that's just because I got so used to it with the msrx?! I'm going to have to pay more attention next time I fly!...
I'm only a beginner too (since oct-nov last year) but completely hooked now - being able to actually fly the 450 doing simple circuits and basic banked turns is just so much fun. As for the lazy 8 I'm still finding that almost impossible. I can do a few flying figure 8's but hovering a fig 8 I just can't get it. I think I need to get some more serious hovering practice in...

[French Paul]

The trick is once spooled up to get the heli off the ground quickly to around a foot or two and you won't notice any more drifting/tipping again,if you do then there's a physical problem to find!
also if your taking off on a hard surface then put the heli on a mouse pad, car Matt or even a towel to stop vibes coming back up the skids and messing around with the gyro!
Both of these tips gave me confidence in my micro helis as I was suffering with the same issues and not getting anywhere.

[5hane]

Once you get used to the left lurch on takeoff it really is a pretty stable little heli. I know people say don't give it any aileron before takeoff (as this can confuse the AS3X) but if your lift off's are positive and quick you can actually have about 30% right aileron (assuming using 70%/15% dr/expo) before even using any throttle and as soon as it pops up let the stick centre and it will just lift straight up. Alternatively just a little bip to the right after liftoff will stop it drifting (but it will still move half a foot or so before stopping).
Ok on Peteski's comments - the nqx will be invaluable for damage limitation for orientation practice, but I would recommend using the agility mode as much as possible (even in the house and just use your second D/R position for a tamer response). The self levelling modes are nothing like flying a heli (even the msrx) and much closer to flying a 45deg fly bared toy heli (like the syma's etc). If you can fly it with no self levelling (I believe this is only possible in the agility mode) even with reduced throw and plenty of expo you will be much better prepared for the jump to CP (or even a FP like the 200SRx). To try and put it in perspective (as it was for me anyway!) The difference between way in which the msrx slides around (i.e. keeps going after cyclic input) from a 45deg fly barred heli (toy) was quite a jump for me - going from the msrx to full CP was a bigger jump yet. Hovering, and moving around in a slow hover on a CP was fairly similar, but as soon as you start to fly (rather than hover) with a collective pitch you suddenly realise how easy it is to 'slide' into the ground - the FP helis (msrx, 200SRx etx) tend to much easier to 'pull' out of a turn etc. I don't understand the physics off it, but the nature of the fixed curvature of the blades seem to make the heli jump back upright (even if you are sloppy with the cyclic giving enough rudder can bring you back up). On the CP's you have to be spot on or you are eating the dirt!
Let me know how you do with the msrx - I still love it and fly it quite often still when I can't get out.

Thank you so much. I am pretty sure ive setup the tx as the link described, but my god its complicated. That or im just a bit dim. I basically followed the directions but my brain was hurting when trying to understand it all.... Google is taking a right pounding as i look up the jargon. I have to be honest and say I can only just tell the differance with the new settings. Apparently you can switch between mixes using the Gyro switch, but do i use position 0 or 1, and does position 0 = mix 1 and position 1 = mix 2?
Also, how did someone even come up with these MSRX settings, a degree in mathematics probably.