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  • #16
    Originally posted by Thafrix View Post
    Thanks for that - will spool it up and see what happens!

    PS I meant in my previous post negative % in TX = rate mode (not HH as I said in my post)

    Thanks again
    In that case, perhaps VBar see's 0% (ie mid stick) as 50%. -100% would equate to 0% on the VBar and +100% would equate to 100%.
    Harry

    Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
    Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
    SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


    And a pillow for the doghouse...

    Powered by Futaba 18SZ

    Comment


    • #17
      Just for added peace of mind... what Harry is saying is 100% right. Im running 25% using the gyro menu on my DX18 on my TT E700. The number in the TX means nothing! If you boot the software up and knock the % all the way down to -100% you will see it on the live screen. Normal rate mode can only be selected in the software itself
      Lee
      sigpic
      www.raptoruas.co.uk
      www.lee.rcha-uk.com
      www.gensace.de

      Comment


      • #18
        VBar works differently to other gyros.
        Always remember that "Software is king" in VBar world - it's irrelevant what your Tx says.
        Only go by what the Vbar software is saying

        Cheers,
        Rob
        Team Align, Midland Helicopters, Optifuel, Cyclone Blades, Scorpion Motors, Thunder Power, Savox Servos, JR Propo

        | 3D Championship

        Comment


        • #19
          If you want the tx to say around 30,set it as so and adjust subtrim on ch5 until you get the same number as now on the live screen,but as said its of no concern.

          For reference i have about 50 on subtrim on all mine not sure if its plus or minus.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Made2Fade View Post
            Just for added peace of mind... what Harry is saying is 100% right. Im running 25% using the gyro menu on my DX18 on my TT E700. The number in the TX means nothing! If you boot the software up and knock the % all the way down to -100% you will see it on the live screen. Normal rate mode can only be selected in the software itself
            Perfect - thanks - makes a lot more sense

            One more question - where in the software is it possible to choose between rate mode and HH? I can't see that option anywhere

            Bear in mind I'm not running pro - is it an extra functionality of pro?

            Thanks again to everyone - much appreciated

            Comment


            • #21
              Top right corner of the tail section on the live screen off the top of my head. Could be a pro feature tbh... all mine are on pro so I wouldnt really know

              Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
              Lee
              sigpic
              www.raptoruas.co.uk
              www.lee.rcha-uk.com
              www.gensace.de

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Thafrix View Post
                Perfect - thanks - makes a lot more sense

                One more question - where in the software is it possible to choose between rate mode and HH? I can't see that option anywhere

                Bear in mind I'm not running pro - is it an extra functionality of pro?

                Thanks again to everyone - much appreciated
                You can, but you can't change between the two via a TX switch like with standard gyros etc. You'd have to set up bank switching and use a 'profile' for each setting you want. If I'm not mistaken you need pro for bank switching so if you select HH or rate on express, you can only use that mode without going into the software to change it.
                Harry

                Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
                Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
                SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


                And a pillow for the doghouse...

                Powered by Futaba 18SZ

                Comment


                • #23
                  Matt

                  Yeah, a friend from the club, also recommended the R6303SB, so I got myself a couple! Its slightly more complicated than the DX 8 to set up, but really looking forward to getting flying with the futaba. The guys were saying you're definately a lot more locked in and the stick feeling is superb.

                  Cheers Mark

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Bigspecky View Post
                    Matt

                    Yeah, a friend from the club, also recommended the R6303SB, so I got myself a couple! Its slightly more complicated than the DX 8 to set up, but really looking forward to getting flying with the futaba. The guys were saying you're definately a lot more locked in and the stick feeling is superb.

                    Cheers Mark
                    Hi Mark.. nice to hear someone else recommending the same thing.. they are good rx's and ideal for fbl as you just plug the sbus straight in :-)

                    Which Tx have you got? Is it the futaba 8FG? New or an older one?

                    Cheers
                    Matt

                    Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
                    Matt
                    Goblin 500 Sport
                    Owner of
                    One E.G.S.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Also as for 'feel' everyone will have their own opinion but i like futaba radios, they feel well made, sit in the hand nice, sticks are good but most of all is the radio link is solid.. no iffy "is it or isnt it binded sats"

                      Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
                      Matt
                      Goblin 500 Sport
                      Owner of
                      One E.G.S.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by RcRotaryMadness View Post
                        Also as for 'feel' everyone will have their own opinion but i like futaba radios, they feel well made, sit in the hand nice, sticks are good but most of all is the radio link is solid.. no iffy "is it or isnt it binded sats"

                        Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
                        Matt
                        I got myself a 12FGH second hand off Maj, a member of the forum. We have a couple of members at the club who have a 12FGH and a 8FGS. Both say the same thing as yourself, the futaba connection is solid and locked in. As you said no need to worry about sat connections etc. One of the guys who used to use DX8 says he feels the 8FGS has improved his flying!
                        Quick question about the RX, could I have both power leads of my Gryphon BEC connected into two ports on the RX?

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Bigspecky View Post
                          Matt
                          I got myself a 12FGH second hand off Maj, a member of the forum. We have a couple of members at the club who have a 12FGH and a 8FGS. Both say the same thing as yourself, the futaba connection is solid and locked in. As you said no need to worry about sat connections etc. One of the guys who used to use DX8 says he feels the 8FGS has improved his flying!
                          Quick question about the RX, could I have both power leads of my Gryphon BEC connected into two ports on the RX?
                          A 12FGH very nice, will be good coming from Maj too =) Bit more advanced than the 8FG! Yeah I suppose it partly depends on how good the old radio was that the person is coming from, sometimes its a mixture of something just being newer as well as better =)

                          As for power supply, if using S-Bus with an fbl unit like the Vbar, then I tend to apply all the power to the Vbar and only have one good quality lead going to the Sbus port on the RX. Since the Servos are no longer plugged into the RX the current draw on this cable is very low.. the current is where the servos plug in which is on the fbl units power bus, hence why I plug my power supply into the vbars power bus. With some fancy regulators you plug the servos into the regulator, then use patch leads to connect that to the vbar... but that doesn't apply with the gryphon becs.

                          If you want to be extra safe then you could also provide a seperate power feed to the RX as well as the Sbus cable BUT i see this as a little pointless because truth is, if that Sbus cable fails for whatever reason the fbl unit has no signal anyway so it will go to failsafe regardless of the rx.
                          Matt
                          Goblin 500 Sport
                          Owner of
                          One E.G.S.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by RcRotaryMadness View Post
                            A 12FGH very nice, will be good coming from Maj too =) Bit more advanced than the 8FG! Yeah I suppose it partly depends on how good the old radio was that the person is coming from, sometimes its a mixture of something just being newer as well as better =)

                            As for power supply, if using S-Bus with an fbl unit like the Vbar, then I tend to apply all the power to the Vbar and only have one good quality lead going to the Sbus port on the RX. Since the Servos are no longer plugged into the RX the current draw on this cable is very low.. the current is where the servos plug in which is on the fbl units power bus, hence why I plug my power supply into the vbars power bus. With some fancy regulators you plug the servos into the regulator, then use patch leads to connect that to the vbar... but that doesn't apply with the gryphon becs.

                            If you want to be extra safe then you could also provide a seperate power feed to the RX as well as the Sbus cable BUT i see this as a little pointless because truth is, if that Sbus cable fails for whatever reason the fbl unit has no signal anyway so it will go to failsafe regardless of the rx.
                            Matt

                            To be honest its a little too complicated for me, as I said I'm used to the DX 7 - DX 8, so the set up of the Futaba is certainly a little different.

                            With regard to the Vbar connections, if I take my BEC power directly to the Vbar (channel C), Sbus (channel B), I assume you then have your ESC connected to the RX? As channels 1-4 for servos.

                            Cheers Mark

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Bigspecky View Post
                              Matt

                              To be honest its a little too complicated for me, as I said I'm used to the DX 7 - DX 8, so the set up of the Futaba is certainly a little different.

                              With regard to the Vbar connections, if I take my BEC power directly to the Vbar (channel C), Sbus (channel B), I assume you then have your ESC connected to the RX? As channels 1-4 for servos.

                              Cheers Mark

                              Yeah its a big step up to be honest, lot of settings on the 12FG. The 8FG is more inline with the DX7/8. A few things are a little different, try read the manual a few times as boring as it is, it does help. An important one most people miss is when setting Expo, its the opposite to spektrum. For futaba radios to make the stick softer around center you put negative "-" expo. to make it sharper you put positive "+" expo... it catches a lot of converts out lol

                              As for vbar, I assume its a mini vbar your using? If so your connections using an Sbus RX is this:

                              RD = Tail rotor servo
                              Ch1 to 3 = Swashplate servos
                              RX A = not used (do NOT apply power here as these are I/O pins to the processor)
                              RX B = ESC signal output - So you ESC plugs in here... the reason is the vbar decodes the S-Bus signal, then feeds a normal signal to the ESC.
                              RX C = RX signal input - Plug SBUS in here
                              RX 1 = not used
                              RX 2 = not used


                              Because of the limited ports on the mini vbar, you have to find a way to get power in to where it needs to be. A lot of people just use Y leads on the servo connections (Ch1-3) or Y leads on the ESC (remove ESC Red wire if using a BEC), Y leads on the RX input. Wherever you can get power in to it but NEVER RXA.


                              On my 450, with it being a small heli, all the servos plug directly into the mini vbar, so to get power into the vbar, I made a Y lead that connects RXB to the ESC and the 10 amp castle BEC i'm using. On the Y lead I have removed the RED wire to stop the ESC providing power as I'm using a seperate BEC. So there is only 1 power connection to the Vbar. IMO this is fine on a small heli to save wiring.

                              On my 550, I use a separate LIFE pack as the RX power supply, which has two feeds into it, Y leads again, this time power coming in through the RX B & C connections. The only thing I don't like with this setup is all the power is coming into the vbar in the same spot, rather than each end of the power bus, but I have not had any problems so seems to work ok. On a heli larger than a 550 I would use a full size vbar and make use of the extra ports.

                              On my 550, I've also got some extra wiring as I'm using the vbars gov, which uses RXA port too.
                              Last edited by RcRotaryMadness; 29-11-2013, 10:30 AM.
                              Matt
                              Goblin 500 Sport
                              Owner of
                              One E.G.S.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by RcRotaryMadness View Post
                                Yeah its a big step up to be honest, lot of settings on the 12FG. The 8FG is more inline with the DX7/8. A few things are a little different, try read the manual a few times as boring as it is, it does help. An important one most people miss is when setting Expo, its the opposite to spektrum. For futaba radios to make the stick softer around center you put negative "-" expo. to make it sharper you put positive "+" expo... it catches a lot of converts out lol

                                As for vbar, I assume its a mini vbar your using? If so your connections using an Sbus RX is this:

                                RD = Tail rotor servo
                                Ch1 to 3 = Swashplate servos
                                RX A = not used (do NOT apply power here as these are I/O pins to the processor)
                                RX B = ESC signal output - So you ESC plugs in here... the reason is the vbar decodes the S-Bus signal, then feeds a normal signal to the ESC.
                                RX C = RX signal input - Plug SBUS in here
                                RX 1 = not used
                                RX 2 = not used


                                Because of the limited ports on the mini vbar, you have to find a way to get power in to where it needs to be. A lot of people just use Y leads on the servo connections (Ch1-3) or Y leads on the ESC (remove ESC Red wire if using a BEC), Y leads on the RX input. Wherever you can get power in to it but NEVER RXA.


                                On my 450, with it being a small heli, all the servos plug directly into the mini vbar, so to get power into the vbar, I made a Y lead that connects RXB to the ESC and the 10 amp castle BEC i'm using. On the Y lead I have removed the RED wire to stop the ESC providing power as I'm using a seperate BEC. So there is only 1 power connection to the Vbar. IMO this is fine on a small heli to save wiring.

                                On my 550, I use a separate LIFE pack as the RX power supply, which has two feeds into it, Y leads again, this time power coming in through the RX B & C connections. The only thing I don't like with this setup is all the power is coming into the vbar in the same spot, rather than each end of the power bus, but I have not had any problems so seems to work ok. On a heli larger than a 550 I would use a full size vbar and make use of the extra ports.

                                On my 550, I've also got some extra wiring as I'm using the vbars gov, which uses RXA port too.
                                Matt

                                Yeah its a mini Vbar, I have one on my Alees 750 with the two sats connected. Another one to be changed! After reading your above post, I seen the info on the Y harness for splitting should you have a slave BEC.

                                I manged to get it cabled this way over the weekend, unfortunately no flying last weekend. The Gryphon BEC has two power leads similiar to your 550 setup, rather than having the two going to the mini Vbar, I have one going through Y harness. The other is going to the RX.

                                I picked up on your comment about not using the mini Vbar on anything larger than 550. As I said, I have a mini Vbar on the Alees 750 and fingers crossed its been super so far. No issues! Will bear in mind about the full size Vbar on the larger heli's.

                                Cheers Mark

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