Originally posted by Thafrix
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In that case, perhaps VBar see's 0% (ie mid stick) as 50%. -100% would equate to 0% on the VBar and +100% would equate to 100%.Harry
Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |
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Just for added peace of mind... what Harry is saying is 100% right. Im running 25% using the gyro menu on my DX18 on my TT E700. The number in the TX means nothing! If you boot the software up and knock the % all the way down to -100% you will see it on the live screen. Normal rate mode can only be selected in the software itself
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VBar works differently to other gyros.
Always remember that "Software is king" in VBar world - it's irrelevant what your Tx says.
Only go by what the Vbar software is saying
Cheers,
RobTeam Align, Midland Helicopters, Optifuel, Cyclone Blades, Scorpion Motors, Thunder Power, Savox Servos, JR Propo
| 3D Championship
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If you want the tx to say around 30,set it as so and adjust subtrim on ch5 until you get the same number as now on the live screen,but as said its of no concern.
For reference i have about 50 on subtrim on all mine not sure if its plus or minus.
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Perfect - thanks - makes a lot more senseOriginally posted by Made2Fade View PostJust for added peace of mind... what Harry is saying is 100% right. Im running 25% using the gyro menu on my DX18 on my TT E700. The number in the TX means nothing! If you boot the software up and knock the % all the way down to -100% you will see it on the live screen. Normal rate mode can only be selected in the software itself
One more question - where in the software is it possible to choose between rate mode and HH? I can't see that option anywhere
Bear in mind I'm not running pro - is it an extra functionality of pro?
Thanks again to everyone - much appreciated
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Top right corner of the tail section on the live screen off the top of my head. Could be a pro feature tbh... all mine are on pro so I wouldnt really know
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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You can, but you can't change between the two via a TX switch like with standard gyros etc. You'd have to set up bank switching and use a 'profile' for each setting you want. If I'm not mistaken you need pro for bank switching so if you select HH or rate on express, you can only use that mode without going into the software to change it.Originally posted by Thafrix View PostPerfect - thanks - makes a lot more sense
One more question - where in the software is it possible to choose between rate mode and HH? I can't see that option anywhere
Bear in mind I'm not running pro - is it an extra functionality of pro?
Thanks again to everyone - much appreciatedHarry
Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |
And a pillow for the doghouse...
Powered by Futaba 18SZ
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Matt
Yeah, a friend from the club, also recommended the R6303SB, so I got myself a couple! Its slightly more complicated than the DX 8 to set up, but really looking forward to getting flying with the futaba. The guys were saying you're definately a lot more locked in and the stick feeling is superb.
Cheers Mark
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Hi Mark.. nice to hear someone else recommending the same thing.. they are good rx's and ideal for fbl as you just plug the sbus straight in :-)Originally posted by Bigspecky View PostMatt
Yeah, a friend from the club, also recommended the R6303SB, so I got myself a couple! Its slightly more complicated than the DX 8 to set up, but really looking forward to getting flying with the futaba. The guys were saying you're definately a lot more locked in and the stick feeling is superb.
Cheers Mark
Which Tx have you got? Is it the futaba 8FG? New or an older one?
Cheers
Matt
Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 BetaGoblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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Also as for 'feel' everyone will have their own opinion but i like futaba radios, they feel well made, sit in the hand nice, sticks are good but most of all is the radio link is solid.. no iffy "is it or isnt it binded sats"
Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 BetaGoblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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MattOriginally posted by RcRotaryMadness View PostAlso as for 'feel' everyone will have their own opinion but i like futaba radios, they feel well made, sit in the hand nice, sticks are good but most of all is the radio link is solid.. no iffy "is it or isnt it binded sats"
Sent from my Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
I got myself a 12FGH second hand off Maj, a member of the forum. We have a couple of members at the club who have a 12FGH and a 8FGS. Both say the same thing as yourself, the futaba connection is solid and locked in. As you said no need to worry about sat connections etc. One of the guys who used to use DX8 says he feels the 8FGS has improved his flying!
Quick question about the RX, could I have both power leads of my Gryphon BEC connected into two ports on the RX?
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A 12FGH very nice, will be good coming from Maj too =) Bit more advanced than the 8FG! Yeah I suppose it partly depends on how good the old radio was that the person is coming from, sometimes its a mixture of something just being newer as well as better =)Originally posted by Bigspecky View PostMatt
I got myself a 12FGH second hand off Maj, a member of the forum. We have a couple of members at the club who have a 12FGH and a 8FGS. Both say the same thing as yourself, the futaba connection is solid and locked in. As you said no need to worry about sat connections etc. One of the guys who used to use DX8 says he feels the 8FGS has improved his flying!
Quick question about the RX, could I have both power leads of my Gryphon BEC connected into two ports on the RX?
As for power supply, if using S-Bus with an fbl unit like the Vbar, then I tend to apply all the power to the Vbar and only have one good quality lead going to the Sbus port on the RX. Since the Servos are no longer plugged into the RX the current draw on this cable is very low.. the current is where the servos plug in which is on the fbl units power bus, hence why I plug my power supply into the vbars power bus. With some fancy regulators you plug the servos into the regulator, then use patch leads to connect that to the vbar... but that doesn't apply with the gryphon becs.
If you want to be extra safe then you could also provide a seperate power feed to the RX as well as the Sbus cable BUT i see this as a little pointless because truth is, if that Sbus cable fails for whatever reason the fbl unit has no signal anyway so it will go to failsafe regardless of the rx.Goblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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MattOriginally posted by RcRotaryMadness View PostA 12FGH very nice, will be good coming from Maj too =) Bit more advanced than the 8FG! Yeah I suppose it partly depends on how good the old radio was that the person is coming from, sometimes its a mixture of something just being newer as well as better =)
As for power supply, if using S-Bus with an fbl unit like the Vbar, then I tend to apply all the power to the Vbar and only have one good quality lead going to the Sbus port on the RX. Since the Servos are no longer plugged into the RX the current draw on this cable is very low.. the current is where the servos plug in which is on the fbl units power bus, hence why I plug my power supply into the vbars power bus. With some fancy regulators you plug the servos into the regulator, then use patch leads to connect that to the vbar... but that doesn't apply with the gryphon becs.
If you want to be extra safe then you could also provide a seperate power feed to the RX as well as the Sbus cable BUT i see this as a little pointless because truth is, if that Sbus cable fails for whatever reason the fbl unit has no signal anyway so it will go to failsafe regardless of the rx.
To be honest its a little too complicated for me, as I said I'm used to the DX 7 - DX 8, so the set up of the Futaba is certainly a little different.
With regard to the Vbar connections, if I take my BEC power directly to the Vbar (channel C), Sbus (channel B), I assume you then have your ESC connected to the RX? As channels 1-4 for servos.
Cheers Mark
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Originally posted by Bigspecky View PostMatt
To be honest its a little too complicated for me, as I said I'm used to the DX 7 - DX 8, so the set up of the Futaba is certainly a little different.
With regard to the Vbar connections, if I take my BEC power directly to the Vbar (channel C), Sbus (channel B), I assume you then have your ESC connected to the RX? As channels 1-4 for servos.
Cheers Mark
Yeah its a big step up to be honest, lot of settings on the 12FG. The 8FG is more inline with the DX7/8. A few things are a little different, try read the manual a few times as boring as it is, it does help. An important one most people miss is when setting Expo, its the opposite to spektrum. For futaba radios to make the stick softer around center you put negative "-" expo. to make it sharper you put positive "+" expo... it catches a lot of converts out lol
As for vbar, I assume its a mini vbar your using? If so your connections using an Sbus RX is this:
RD = Tail rotor servo
Ch1 to 3 = Swashplate servos
RX A = not used (do NOT apply power here as these are I/O pins to the processor)
RX B = ESC signal output - So you ESC plugs in here... the reason is the vbar decodes the S-Bus signal, then feeds a normal signal to the ESC.
RX C = RX signal input - Plug SBUS in here
RX 1 = not used
RX 2 = not used
Because of the limited ports on the mini vbar, you have to find a way to get power in to where it needs to be. A lot of people just use Y leads on the servo connections (Ch1-3) or Y leads on the ESC (remove ESC Red wire if using a BEC), Y leads on the RX input. Wherever you can get power in to it but NEVER RXA.
On my 450, with it being a small heli, all the servos plug directly into the mini vbar, so to get power into the vbar, I made a Y lead that connects RXB to the ESC and the 10 amp castle BEC i'm using. On the Y lead I have removed the RED wire to stop the ESC providing power as I'm using a seperate BEC. So there is only 1 power connection to the Vbar. IMO this is fine on a small heli to save wiring.
On my 550, I use a separate LIFE pack as the RX power supply, which has two feeds into it, Y leads again, this time power coming in through the RX B & C connections. The only thing I don't like with this setup is all the power is coming into the vbar in the same spot, rather than each end of the power bus, but I have not had any problems so seems to work ok. On a heli larger than a 550 I would use a full size vbar and make use of the extra ports.
On my 550, I've also got some extra wiring as I'm using the vbars gov, which uses RXA port too.Last edited by RcRotaryMadness; 29-11-2013, 10:30 AM.Goblin 500 SportMatt

Owner of One E.G.S.
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MattOriginally posted by RcRotaryMadness View PostYeah its a big step up to be honest, lot of settings on the 12FG. The 8FG is more inline with the DX7/8. A few things are a little different, try read the manual a few times as boring as it is, it does help. An important one most people miss is when setting Expo, its the opposite to spektrum. For futaba radios to make the stick softer around center you put negative "-" expo. to make it sharper you put positive "+" expo... it catches a lot of converts out lol
As for vbar, I assume its a mini vbar your using? If so your connections using an Sbus RX is this:
RD = Tail rotor servo
Ch1 to 3 = Swashplate servos
RX A = not used (do NOT apply power here as these are I/O pins to the processor)
RX B = ESC signal output - So you ESC plugs in here... the reason is the vbar decodes the S-Bus signal, then feeds a normal signal to the ESC.
RX C = RX signal input - Plug SBUS in here
RX 1 = not used
RX 2 = not used
Because of the limited ports on the mini vbar, you have to find a way to get power in to where it needs to be. A lot of people just use Y leads on the servo connections (Ch1-3) or Y leads on the ESC (remove ESC Red wire if using a BEC), Y leads on the RX input. Wherever you can get power in to it but NEVER RXA.
On my 450, with it being a small heli, all the servos plug directly into the mini vbar, so to get power into the vbar, I made a Y lead that connects RXB to the ESC and the 10 amp castle BEC i'm using. On the Y lead I have removed the RED wire to stop the ESC providing power as I'm using a seperate BEC. So there is only 1 power connection to the Vbar. IMO this is fine on a small heli to save wiring.
On my 550, I use a separate LIFE pack as the RX power supply, which has two feeds into it, Y leads again, this time power coming in through the RX B & C connections. The only thing I don't like with this setup is all the power is coming into the vbar in the same spot, rather than each end of the power bus, but I have not had any problems so seems to work ok. On a heli larger than a 550 I would use a full size vbar and make use of the extra ports.
On my 550, I've also got some extra wiring as I'm using the vbars gov, which uses RXA port too.
Yeah its a mini Vbar, I have one on my Alees 750 with the two sats connected. Another one to be changed! After reading your above post, I seen the info on the Y harness for splitting should you have a slave BEC.
I manged to get it cabled this way over the weekend, unfortunately no flying last weekend. The Gryphon BEC has two power leads similiar to your 550 setup, rather than having the two going to the mini Vbar, I have one going through Y harness. The other is going to the RX.
I picked up on your comment about not using the mini Vbar on anything larger than 550. As I said, I have a mini Vbar on the Alees 750 and fingers crossed its been super so far. No issues! Will bear in mind about the full size Vbar on the larger heli's.
Cheers Mark
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