Seized OS 55

[Planehazza]

So yeah, like new basically:



photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 1.jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 4.jpg

[Planehazza]

does the con rod move on the crank pin?
liner out will the piston move in the bore allowing the con rod to move?

if yes a crank bearing has failed
if no the big end bush has failed


my guess at the moment is the rear bearing has broken up

Nope nothing inside moves at all. I can only just get my little finger in, but I can't get the con rod to move at all.

Edit:
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpg


Update, got the the liner out and I can't see scoring, just some horizontal scratches:



Even with the liner remove, it still won't turn. The con rod and piston are very stiff. The con rod can pivot where it meets the crank shaft, put the piston is very stiff on the con rod. The crank shaft won't budge in the slightest.

[electricsceadu]

i would have a look down the carb intake just to be 100% sure nothing has gone in there
i wouldn't strip it down any more until you have spoken to fl

to find out what went wrong the whole engine needs coming apart

as you've removed the liner whilst i've been typing does the conrod move now?

[Planehazza]

i would have a look down the carb intake just to be 100% sure nothing has gone in there
i wouldn't strip it down any more until you have spoken to fl

to find out what went wrong the whole engine needs coming apart

as you've removed the liner whilst i've been typing does the conrod move now?

See my sneaky edit

[electricsceadu]

the piston being stiff on the rod isn't un-common
as the rod moves on the crank its either the front or rear bearing of something down the carb inlet
it could be that the front bearing has broken up and the bearing cage is stopping it turning

i wouldn't take anymore off the engine

[Planehazza]

Thanks. I'll put it all back together. I'm planning on visiting Fast Lads on friday anyway, so I'll call them tomorrow and explain everything to them in the hope I can get a replacement.

[Gixxer]

It might just be a trick of the camera, but the gap at 'A' looks larger than the gap at 'B'... and what's that at 'C'... it's a bit blurred and might just be another trick of the camera... or has the crankshaft taken a lump out of the engine casing?



If it's as it looks, it looks like the rear bearing has failed.

[Planehazza]

Thanks. Hopefully I can get it replaced on this fact.

[Gate88]

Something isn't right with that backplate either.None of mine have ever had scoring like that on them and even if they did it gets more defined at the top which means the big end is not running true. This could also point to the rear bearing.

[riggs2909]

hello how are you in truth i had a 91szh kill its self in flight it was within the 2year warranty time frame so i contacted the very nice people at ripmax who asked for it back and the repaired free off charge. i was flying within a week or so as long as you were following instructions and using good fuel you should be okay but i think settle your self and ring ripmax would be a good start really helpful bunch.

[Planehazza]

hello how are you in truth i had a 91szh kill its self in flight it was within the 2year warranty time frame so i contacted the very nice people at ripmax who asked for it back and the repaired free off charge. i was flying within a week or so as long as you were following instructions and using good fuel you should be okay but i think settle your self and ring ripmax would be a good start really helpful bunch.

Thanks, and welcome to the forum. Yup, opti 20SLV, following the instructions to the letter.

[Planehazza]

It might just be a trick of the camera, but the gap at 'A' looks larger than the gap at 'B'... and what's that at 'C'... it's a bit blurred and might just be another trick of the camera... or has the crankshaft taken a lump out of the engine casing?



If it's as it looks, it looks like the rear bearing has failed.

You're right, I can't check the engine itself as I'm at work, but from the photo there definitely seems to be an issue there, as if it's not running true. When I get home tonight I'm going to remove the carb again and check to see if some foreign object hasn't some how got in. Is it still worth rinning Fast Lads first?

[Planehazza]

OK so I'm happier now. I have managed to free up the engine, by very carefully putting plastic top under the piston with the engine upside down on top of it, and pushing firmly down. I can now freely turn the engine over, but I can't see or hear any debris, so I'm very certain it's not something I've done wrong.

There is a lot of rusty crap around the rear bearing and the carb however. Should I still send it to FL to send to OS? Or will they now just turn round and argue that the bearings are consumables?

Sorry for the amount of posts I've made about this.

[electricsceadu]

i would ring fl again and ask them if they think it will be repaired under warranty as there is rust inside the engine
if they don't know ring ripmax and tell them whats happend and ask the same
if there is any doubt to warranty then strip the rest of the engine clean the rust out and replace both bearings
it will get you flying quicker than sending it off

[rachel]

OK so I'm happier now. I have managed to free up the engine, by very carefully putting plastic top under the piston with the engine upside down on top of it, and pushing firmly down. I can now freely turn the engine over, but I can't see or hear any debris, so I'm very certain it's not something I've done wrong.

There is a lot of rusty crap around the rear bearing and the carb however. Should I still send it to FL to send to OS? Or will they now just turn round and argue that the bearings are consumables?

Sorry for the amount of posts I've made about this.

Listen I know it's going to void your warranty but send it to me I will change the bearings and return it to you for the weekend , I think your problem is a rust thing I had it once itch a 55 .
A good clean and new bearings and it was fab.

Happy to help if you want me to.
X Rachel