Seized OS 55

[Planehazza]

OK so I'm very ****ed off.

Bought a brand new OS55 from Fast Lads not long ago. It's only had 1/3 of a tank, sat idling to start the wearing in process that. That went fine, until I went to start it again, when I thought the OWB in the clutch had gone. Nope, turns out the piston/crank has completely seized and will not budge. I've had it apart, I can't see any damage, except a slight bit of were where the piston arm has rubbed on the back plate.

I followed the instructions to letter, running the engine and the correct "new engine" needle settings. As said, it was just sat on the deck for 1/3 tank idling, with the intention of then hovering it.

Even when I say "just idling" I was giving it the a few bursts as well, so it wasn't even constant idling.

Where do I stand in getting this replaced or repaired? Will they just turn round and say it was something I've done?

It's the black LE which makes the cost of this even worse!

[raptorheli2]

if it was running for 1/3rd of a tank then it has been overheated if it seized is probably what happened. you shouldn't leave an engine idle for prolonged periods as there is marginal airflow over the fins. our helis are designed to spin up at 16000rpm so the fans are all but useless at idle speeds. that said most of a nitros cooling is via the fuel anyway so i would guess it was lean coupled with poor airflow over the head resulting in a seize.

if it is down to ripmax (it probably is) then in my experience your paying to fix it regardless of who was at fault.

fastlad will send it to ripmax on your behalf or they may wish to sort something else out.

the last time i had to deal with ripmax they said my engine had been ran lean-this was done without them even looking at it as it was done via the phone and they said don't bother sending it back-just buy the parts.

cheers

[Stuart]

Lees did the same today.

[Gate88]

By "Piston arm" I assume you mean the con rod. If this has been rubbing on the back plate and there are signs of wear then there is a problem with the engine tolerances. Any rubbing is going to create friction and in turn heat and thats going to sieze it. If thats the case I'd have thought you'd have a good chance of being able to claim something towards the repair parts.

Just because I love a row if it was me I'd go for a replacement engine, the "Sale of goods act 1979" says "Goods must be fit for purpose and last a reasonable length of time" so I'd be giving the retailer both barrels!

If they dont play ball then call trading standards on 08454 04 05 06 Ive got them on speed dial and they've helped me out loads of times in the past.

[Planehazza]

if it was running for 1/3rd of a tank then it has been overheated if it seized is probably what happened. you shouldn't leave an engine idle for prolonged periods as there is marginal airflow over the fins. our helis are designed to spin up at 16000rpm so the fans are all but useless at idle speeds. that said most of a nitros cooling is via the fuel anyway so i would guess it was lean coupled with poor airflow over the head resulting in a seize.

if it is down to ripmax (it probably is) then in my experience your paying to fix it regardless of who was at fault.

fastlad will send it to ripmax on your behalf or they may wish to sort something else out.

the last time i had to deal with ripmax they said my engine had been ran lean-this was done without them even looking at it as it was done via the phone and they said don't bother sending it back-just buy the parts.

cheers

Thanks, but I was told by several sources to do this for the first tank. Also, the back plate was never more than luke warm, so I doubt very much it overheated.

FFS, I'm livid.

By "Piston arm" I assume you mean the con rod. If this has been rubbing on the back plate and there are signs of wear then there is a problem with the engine tolerances. If thats the case I'd have thought you'd have a good chance of being able to claim something towards the repair parts.

Just because I love a row if it was me I'd go for a replacement engine, the "Sale of goods act 1979" says "Goods must be fit for purpose and last a reasonable length of time" so I'd be giving the retailer both barrels!

If they dont play ball then call trading standards on 08454 04 05 06 Ive got them on speed dial and they've helped me out loads of times in the past.

Yup, con rod was it, couldn't think of the name. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give that a go. I'm not losing out on £210. I'm not the best tuner in the world, but I take care and tripple check everything - this is not pilot error!

Whilst I completely agree with you, and I will firmly be standing my ground over the phone, it isn't a fault of Fast Lads. They're essentially just middle men between me and OS. If they can't/won't resolve, I'll drop trading standards into the conversation and then give OS hell.
Sorry for the rant lol

[rapidgaz]

Hi Harry, it's not good to let a Glo engine idle for a long time, and as was said the air flow from the fan wil be very little.


Sent from my iPhone using Internet.

[Gate88]

if it was running for 1/3rd of a tank then it has been overheated if it seized is probably what happened. you shouldn't leave an engine idle for prolonged periods as there is marginal airflow over the fins. our helis are designed to spin up at 16000rpm so the fans are all but useless at idle speeds. that said most of a nitros cooling is via the fuel anyway so i would guess it was lean coupled with poor airflow over the head resulting in a seize.

No offence but every engine should be able to idle for long periods without overheating, especially with new bearings in them, if they cant do that then they'd fit bigger heat sinks and fans. The standard cooling fans are perfecty adequate for a 50's & 55's at idle speeds for long periods. Whenever I get a new engine I pull my main blades off open up the needles to 1/2 over manufacturers recomended settings and leave them ticking over on the floor for a couple of tanks. I have had loads of them and done plenty of rebuilds and never had one overheat on the floor even if I run them ridiculously lean.

[Planehazza]

Hi Harry, it's not good to let a Glo engine idle for a long time, and as was said the air flow from the fan wil be very little.


Sent from my iPhone using Internet.

Thanks but again, why does every tuning video suggest this? And also, as said the engine never got more than luke warm so it certainly did not over heat.

[raptorheli2]

No offence but every engine should be able to idle for long periods without overheating, especially with new bearings in them,

the fact is simple you can't leave our engines, infact any engine running for prolonged periods with 1. marginal cooling and 2. it being lean.

if you strip an engine and you don't find signs of why it seized then one can only assume it was due to heat. quite how it occurred is a completely different matter.

FYI the backplate should have signs of very light scoring in it as well, don't be alarmed by that.

anyway, to save any arguments then take a picture of the top of the piston/liner and you can see what has been going on usually.

cheers

[raptorheli2]

Thanks, but I was told by several sources to do this for the first tank. Also, the back plate was never more than luke warm, so I doubt very much it overheated.

FFS, I'm livid.



Yup, con rod was it, couldn't think of the name. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give that a go. I'm not losing out on £210. I'm not the best tuner in the world, but I take care and tripple check everything - this is not pilot error!

Whilst I completely agree with you, and I will firmly be standing my ground over the phone, it isn't a fault of Fast Lads. They're essentially just middle men between me and OS. If they can't/won't resolve, I'll drop trading standards into the conversation and then give OS hell.
Sorry for the rant lol

i don't know who your sources are but personally i wouldn't listen to anything else they tell me :-) the best way to run in our engines IMO using a synthetic fuel (assuming there is a piston ring) is run them in the air with proper cooling and slightly rich. running them mega rich with zero heat does you no favours. the slight difference comes with an ABC engine which requires a slightly different approach.

anyway best of luck with ripmax-you'll need it with them.

cheers

[Mark_T]

Whilst I completely agree with you, and I will firmly be standing my ground over the phone, it isn't a fault of Fast Lads. They're essentially just middle men between me and OS. If they can't/won't resolve, I'll drop trading standards into the conversation and then give OS hell.
Sorry for the rant lol

Stay with the retailer who sold it to you, you have a contract with them and lots of good legal stuff to back up your position.

To get this resolved you do have to put thoughts about the 'fairness' of this on one side as you have no contract with the UK distributor and you'll never get near O.S. as the manufacturer.

Something happening this close to purchase is absolutely a retailer problem to solve.

All that said, I hope the thing was producing plenty of smoke while it was idling as the first thought anyone is going to have is that it was run lean, overheated and seized as a result which isn't something you are going to be able to get anyone else to pay for.

[Gate88]

sorry-that is nonsense. the bearings have literally zero do to with it. the heat from the engine is not generated from bearings. the fact is simple you can't leave our engines, infact any engine running for prolonged periods with 1. marginal cooling and 2. it being lean.
cheers

No that's nonsense, youre telling me that they've designed an engine that cant idle without overheating?
The bearings have loads to do with it, as soon as they wear they generate heat, I know cause I log my telemetry. Last week I had a 55 running at an avg 105 degrees, I changed the rear bearing but none of the needle settings and it ran at 80 degrees, thats how much of a difference they make.

[raptorheli2]

sigh, i give in with you.

cheers

[anjki]

Guy

a warn out back bearing will have a massive effect on the way the engine runs.It upsets mixture which is why you see the temp differnce.

andy k

[Gate88]

Guy

a warn out back bearing will have a massive effect on the way the engine runs.It upsets mixture which is why you see the temp differnce.

How in gods name do the bearings adjust the mixture???

What is wrong with you people, its simple physics, if a bearing is rusty and the balls are not turning properly in the groove in the casing then it's fair to say they are dragging yes?

If you drag one piece of metal over another it causes friction yes?

What does friction cause?

Yey!!!!

Youve got it!

Give yourselves a gold star!

If there's any other questions regarding the bleeding obvious that you want answered just shout!