Dx6i to dx7

[shades]

Ok clever people...
I have acquired a dx7 and want to take my settings from my dx6i.

Will the curves that I currently have working in the dx6i work in the dx7, or will I have to setup each heli with the dx7 from scratch?

Also any other pitfalls that I should be aware off when converting to the dx7?

[Boggy]

throttle and pitch curves can be copied into the dx7 as they are (manualy i'm not suggesting it can be done otherwise)

trims and sub trims are best reset from scratch. gyro settings may need tweeking

[shades]

Ok cool that sounds easy enough.
Presume that just re bind the rx to the dx7.

How much difference are the gyro settings ?

[Boggy]

yep just rebind .

with the gyro copy your numbers and try it you may just have to tweek by a few % to get it right

[Streetluge Chris]

I would check all your settings couple of lads where going to use a buddy lead but after speaking to horizon they said you not do it Dx7 to Dx6i as there different the way pots etc work also you have to reverse some servos.

[shades]

Mmmm first attempt and a couple of servos needed reversing.
I think to be on the safe side I'll go for a new setup from scratch.

It will give me something to do while it keeps raining !!

[coptermanic]

Yes I found that, when I went from DX6i to DX7. Was going to mention it, but thought it might just have been me!!!! DX7 much better than the 6, IMHO, better feel.

[shades]

Oh well it will give me chance to battle my way round the dx7 menu! Was so used to the 6 ;-)

[coptermanic]

Me too, but I think the 7 is more logical, and there are a few more options which you can assign to the flt mode switch. And I did not like that menu roller. Hope it is better on the DX8

[Brian Gifford]

Just to reinforce the advice above, when I went from a DX6i to a DX7, I found everything so different, that I set the heli up from scratch - mechanical setup, reset subtrim, etc, etc.

In all honesty, it doesn't take that long, and I'd prefer to do that rather than have a heli I'm not 100% sure of.

[shades]

yep, i've set one heli up from scratch tonite with the dx7.

main trims to zero, reset subtrims to give level servo arms, levelled the swash and up through the head, zero pitch at mid stick.
Expo 20% on elev and aile.
Tried to follow finless videos but struggled with end point adjustments so stop ccpm inetraction ! used his bubble method but how do you keep the flybar still when changing the pitch?

All looks ok, +9/-9 pitch..... as near as damn it anyway !

Just throttle curves and pitch curve adjusments tmrw :-)

Will be interesting to see how well i've done....

[Brian Gifford]

yep, i've set one heli up from scratch tonite with the dx7.

main trims to zero, reset subtrims to give level servo arms, levelled the swash and up through the head, zero pitch at mid stick.
Expo 20% on elev and aile.
Tried to follow finless videos but struggled with end point adjustments so stop ccpm inetraction ! used his bubble method but how do you keep the flybar still when changing the pitch?

All looks ok, +9/-9 pitch..... as near as damn it anyway !

Just throttle curves and pitch curve adjusments tmrw :-)

Will be interesting to see how well i've done....

You cam either use a blade caddy, or there are flybar locks available from most hobby shops.

[shades]

Yeah Brain, i've used a caddy for elev ccpm interaction but struggled a bit when the head is rotated 90 deg to check the aile interaction.

Had seen a way of checking the swash plate level at top and bottom of pitch range. presume this is the same thing just another method of checking.

[Brian Gifford]

Yeah Brain, i've used a caddy for elev ccpm interaction but struggled a bit when the head is rotated 90 deg to check the aile interaction.

Had seen a way of checking the swash plate level at top and bottom of pitch range. presume this is the same thing just another method of checking.

Shades, this is the flybar lock I was talking about: -

Fast Lad Performance

I got one for my 500, it worked brilliantly - now redundant, as I've gone FBL.