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  • switch that can take 7.4 v

    Hi

    I am going to use a 7.4 v lipo as a rec pack what switch would you guys recommend ?
    I was going to use a standard spectrum switch but not sure if it would be heavy enough for the purpose ?
    Any thoughts ?

    Cheers Tom

  • #2
    The problem isn't the voltage but rather the current that large servos can pull that's the problem. Normal practice is not to use a switch, you just plug/unplug the Rx battery.

    You should use a Y-harness that has two servo plugs that connect to the receiver and /or FBL controller. One plug cant take the current.

    Like this:

    https://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/s...y-harness.html
    Attached Files
    Goblin Kraken, SoXos Strike 7, XLPower Specter, Goblin Black Thunder T, Goblin 700 Speed, Goblin 770 Comp Carbon, Trex 700X, Kasama Dune, Henseleit TDR

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    • #3
      I tried a number of switches including a switch which you run a magnet over to turn it on & off, I ended up fitting this Anodised Alloy External Flight Battery Arming Switch (T-Plug)
      Kasama Srimok (OS91HZ), Kasama Srimok (YS91SR), Srimok FIFA, Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Trex 600E, Trex 500 FBL, Xcell Tempest 91, TSK Mystar 61, Volt 700E FBL,

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Grumpy View Post
        The problem isn't the voltage but rather the current that large servos can pull that's the problem. Normal practice is not to use a switch, you just plug/unplug the Rx battery.

        You should use a Y-harness that has two servo plugs that connect to the receiver and /or FBL controller. One plug cant take the current.
        What he said! I use that Y-harness on my 700X with a 2S LIPO as an RX pack.
        Tom
        sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
        SAB Goblin 630 Competition
        - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
        Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
        Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
        .... and a Gaui X3
        Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
        ... and two EGS'



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        • #5
          Looks to me like you're just adding another item in the supply line that can fail, you have another 4 unnecessary solder connections, both sides of the Deans and the bridge connection. Also you have to have another thing stuck to the outside of your model........din't see the point.

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          • #6
            Once soldered I covered the joint in epoxy putty & I could not say weather it is necessary or not but is does work so far.

            What I can say is that I have one model that I just plug the battery in on xt60 connect & because the battery is on the underside of the model it is sometimes awkward.
            Kasama Srimok (OS91HZ), Kasama Srimok (YS91SR), Srimok FIFA, Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Trex 600E, Trex 500 FBL, Xcell Tempest 91, TSK Mystar 61, Volt 700E FBL,

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Grumpy View Post
              The problem isn't the voltage but rather the current that large servos can pull that's the problem. Normal practice is not to use a switch, you just plug/unplug the Rx battery.

              You should use a Y-harness that has two servo plugs that connect to the receiver and /or FBL controller. One plug cant take the current.

              https://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/s...y-harness.html

              This is something I didn't think of.
              I've been using my rx batt with a signal connection to my ikon fbl.

              I shall be digging out a y lead to connect it now.
              Thanks.

              Glad I read this post.
              Heli's: Trex 700 - os gt15hz : Goblin 380 & MSH Brain - Trex 450 Ikon : Blade 550x & 180cfx
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              SkyWalker - Cyclops Tornado - 700tvl cam
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              • #8
                Never used a switch myself. I always use EC3/Deans to two servo connectors plus an opti guard.
                Harry

                Mikado Logo 700 | VBar Neo | JR HV Servos | Pyro 750-50L | Kontronik Kosmik 160HV + buffer pack|
                Thunder Tiger G4 E720 | CGY760 FBL | BLS272SV + BLS276SV | Align 800MX Dom 440kv | Kontronik PowerJive 120HV + Opti UltraGuard |
                SAB Kraken 580 6S | Spirit FBL | BLS173SV + BLS276SV | HK4025 1100kV | Kontronik Kolibri 140LV + Opti UltraGuard |


                And a pillow for the doghouse...

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                • #9
                  In my instance it was on the goblin nitro & I was not sure if it was ok to run the servo cable from front to back, so I ran 16awg to the back & soldered 2 servo leads on the end. As I did not want to keep taking off the canopy to plug in the lipo I just cut into the red lead & installed a T connector (a bullet connector would have worked too).
                  Kasama Srimok (OS91HZ), Kasama Srimok (YS91SR), Srimok FIFA, Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Trex 600E, Trex 500 FBL, Xcell Tempest 91, TSK Mystar 61, Volt 700E FBL,

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by _tj_ View Post
                    I shall be digging out a y lead to connect it now.
                    Thanks.

                    Glad I read this post.
                    Bear in mind that you shouldn't use a standard un-modified Y-lead because that still puts all the current through a single servo plug before splitting into two. If using a normal Y-lead use a heavy duty one and replace the 'common plug' (the one where both wires feed into) with a suitably rated connector (Deans, XT-60, EC3 etc).
                    Goblin Kraken, SoXos Strike 7, XLPower Specter, Goblin Black Thunder T, Goblin 700 Speed, Goblin 770 Comp Carbon, Trex 700X, Kasama Dune, Henseleit TDR

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                    • #11
                      Have a look at the JR E-Switch with Deans connector, they are not cheap but they are a good switch.

                      JR Propo E-Switch D with W.S Deans Ultra Plug
                      Thanks!
                      Rossco
                      sigpic
                      Synergy N7 / Synergy E7SE / Synergy E5
                      Synergy R/C Helicopters / Rail Blades / Fast-Lad Performance Flight Team
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                      • #12
                        That looks like a really well thought out switch, but £30 ..! I think i'll just keep plugging and unplugging.
                        Goblin Kraken, SoXos Strike 7, XLPower Specter, Goblin Black Thunder T, Goblin 700 Speed, Goblin 770 Comp Carbon, Trex 700X, Kasama Dune, Henseleit TDR

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ROSSCO View Post
                          Have a look at the JR E-Switch with Deans connector, they are not cheap but they are a good switch.

                          JR Propo E-Switch D with W.S Deans Ultra Plug
                          +1. Never had any issues with these switches on my helis

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                          • #14
                            I use a JR heavy duty swith which i modify with 16 swg input wires and tw deacent silicone leads to the fbl,... I back this up with an optiguard, never had an issue
                            I have however witnessed several models die as repeated cycling of a deans , ec3, xt60 plug caused the wire to snap.....
                            obviously an optguard would take over and save the heli,....
                            now if only they had fitted one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                            • #15
                              Thanks guys I think I like the looks of the jr switch Might be £30 but heli is a lot more .
                              So ive just ordered one from hobby plastics .see what like when it arrives
                              Thanks again for the help
                              Tom !!

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