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Raptor E720 Build Thread

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  • #31
    DS610 on cyclic
    Kontronic Power Jazz esc
    JR8900G On tail
    Vbarred Full size Blue line
    Align 530kv 750mx
    Cheers
    Stuart

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    • #32
      Originally posted by dogbiscuit View Post
      having to drill through that nice new spangley paint to get the starter shaft in
      Thats not what i wanted to hear, are you talking about drilling the e720 cano for the nitro or do you have to drill the nitro cano too?
      Avant mostro 700E
      Avant mostro 700 Nitro



      member of :
      South cheshire heliaddicts

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      • #33
        There is no starter wand access in the canopy, no issue if you are electric but a simple hole to be made for the nitro. Best of both worlds I guess.

        I loved building mine, the overall quality was better than my Goblin in my opinion. Only mistake I made was having some end float in the main shaft. Didn't read the instructions wher it tells you to press down on the top bearing block to take this out before tightening.

        Not flown mine much, bu hoping to get out when weather improves.
        Cheers,
        Simon
        --------------------------------------------
        Trex 700N & E
        Futaba 18mz and some planks !!

        x 2

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        • #34
          Originally posted by tonystevens View Post
          Thats not what i wanted to hear, are you talking about drilling the e720 cano for the nitro or do you have to drill the nitro cano too?
          Tony I think the canos are the same for both. For the nitro you need to drill a hole of the top of the cano (already marked) for the starter shaft to go through. Not a big deal really!



          sigpic X 2











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          • #35
            On the nitro you have a dimple on the top that you drill for the starter wand to slot through you drill the holes in the bottom for the bracket and I think the gromets are pre-done I can't remember fully.

            Thunder Tiger Raptor G4 Flybarless | RCHA Reviews

            Part 8 at the bottom - its a doddle no guess work if it needs drilling there's a dimple to tell you where... :-)
            Cheers
            Stuart

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            • #36
              Thats not so bad then
              Avant mostro 700E
              Avant mostro 700 Nitro



              member of :
              South cheshire heliaddicts

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              • #37
                I once put the E canopy onto the nitro then went to start the nitro but I hadn't drilled the whole for the starter wand. So there was my homer moment... ;-)
                Cheers
                Stuart

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                • #38
                  Some good info on this thread, came just at the right time, starting my build tommorrow!
                  Avant mostro 700E
                  Avant mostro 700 Nitro



                  member of :
                  South cheshire heliaddicts

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                  • #39
                    Ah so you got one the E or the Nitro ?
                    Cheers
                    Stuart

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                    • #40
                      Nitro of course
                      Avant mostro 700E
                      Avant mostro 700 Nitro



                      member of :
                      South cheshire heliaddicts

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                      • #41
                        Apologies Surinder for hi-jacking your thread - keep posting your updates and if you get stuck just shout....
                        Cheers
                        Stuart

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                        • #42
                          Thank you all once again. The info you guys have shared on this thread has been very very useful.

                          I made some good progress on the build today.

                          Built the tail gear box and completed the frame

                          I have attached a few pictures:







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                          • #43
                            I have some up down play in the head. The manual says to push down on the top bearing to eliminate the play. But there is not much movement to be gained as the holes in the frame for the bearing block are round and not elongated to allow any kind of movement.

                            What I can do is either elongate the holes in the frame of use some sort of shim to remove the play. I have about 2.5mm gap to fill. Has anyone else experienced this?
                            Are there any other suggestion. I believe that both the bearing blocks are identical and swapping their positions with each other will not help?

                            I've attached a picture from the manual that may help visualise the problem.

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                            • #44
                              you have them the right way round they have a recess on one side and flat on the other
                              Cheers
                              Stuart

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                              • #45
                                I have both the flats facing each other and inwards. As I recall that's the way it is in the manual. But I'll double check again tomorrow.

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