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There are a few mentions about people fitting a raptor 60 tank to a raptor 50 to get a bit more duration (Edders did it in the past for example).
The photos i found seemed to have a lot of the tank sticking out the back of the frame, but I managed to get it to fit pretty well.
I had one flying session with the 60 tank and then smacked the heli in hard - so the repairs which involved a complete rebuild (both frame sides and servo tray smashed!) allowed me to do a proper job and take some pics. I hadn't even taimed the duration during the 3.5 tanks i flew but it is significantly more. I do reckon my 3 needle carb (off some one elses written off OS70) is giving me slightly better duration too.
The 60 tank has extra vents. The tank goes with the feed bit against the underside of the motor mount (didn't seem to suffer from the heat). The top rear vent is close to the frame - I sleeved this bit by doubling up the fuel tube. This is the line i will use for filling.
I also fitted an extra clunk (using a pop bottle tank build kit from balsamart) for uniflow - thats the extra line coming out of the front of the tank.
The bottom tank drain need to be blocked off and would clash with the carbon plate which needs a mod.
This filed slot in the carbon plate clears the bottom tank drain. I already had to redrill the undercarraige holes in the plate to move it forward to clear the head on my hyper - parhaps newer ones are slightly different. I'm not worried about this being weakened as it survived the recent crash no probs although many other things were broken.
I filed the frame at the back to get a bit more clearance with the top rear vent.
The tank is just a tiny bit wider than the space in the 30/50 frames so I used a G clamp to enable me to fit the undercarriage and carbon plate. Again no worries that this is over stressing the frame because this bit was undamaged when the beraring blocks and servo tray were ripped out on the crash that I keep talking about but don't really want to mention again!
The rear line I will use for filling and it is blocked using a little moulded shuttoff thingy that came in an align fuel tube pack (good flexible stuff for clunks). this has a sliding keyhole shuttoff and a plug - so it can also be used to block the manifold pressure line to prevent syphoning from the uniflow system. The way I connected it all should remind me to close the manofold line when filling, and open the manifold line when close the filling line and start the motor. We'll see if that works out.
My canopy was a bit battered so I splashed on a RJX 600e canopy which fitted after I put some extra canopy grommets to space the under body clip off a little. Pity that this canopy has a big cooling vent already cut in the under side (for electickery) - but that doesn't really matter. £21 ready painted in a choice of colours.
The photos i found seemed to have a lot of the tank sticking out the back of the frame, but I managed to get it to fit pretty well.
I had one flying session with the 60 tank and then smacked the heli in hard - so the repairs which involved a complete rebuild (both frame sides and servo tray smashed!) allowed me to do a proper job and take some pics. I hadn't even taimed the duration during the 3.5 tanks i flew but it is significantly more. I do reckon my 3 needle carb (off some one elses written off OS70) is giving me slightly better duration too.
The 60 tank has extra vents. The tank goes with the feed bit against the underside of the motor mount (didn't seem to suffer from the heat). The top rear vent is close to the frame - I sleeved this bit by doubling up the fuel tube. This is the line i will use for filling.
I also fitted an extra clunk (using a pop bottle tank build kit from balsamart) for uniflow - thats the extra line coming out of the front of the tank.
The bottom tank drain need to be blocked off and would clash with the carbon plate which needs a mod.
This filed slot in the carbon plate clears the bottom tank drain. I already had to redrill the undercarraige holes in the plate to move it forward to clear the head on my hyper - parhaps newer ones are slightly different. I'm not worried about this being weakened as it survived the recent crash no probs although many other things were broken.
I filed the frame at the back to get a bit more clearance with the top rear vent.
The tank is just a tiny bit wider than the space in the 30/50 frames so I used a G clamp to enable me to fit the undercarriage and carbon plate. Again no worries that this is over stressing the frame because this bit was undamaged when the beraring blocks and servo tray were ripped out on the crash that I keep talking about but don't really want to mention again!
The rear line I will use for filling and it is blocked using a little moulded shuttoff thingy that came in an align fuel tube pack (good flexible stuff for clunks). this has a sliding keyhole shuttoff and a plug - so it can also be used to block the manifold pressure line to prevent syphoning from the uniflow system. The way I connected it all should remind me to close the manofold line when filling, and open the manifold line when close the filling line and start the motor. We'll see if that works out.
My canopy was a bit battered so I splashed on a RJX 600e canopy which fitted after I put some extra canopy grommets to space the under body clip off a little. Pity that this canopy has a big cooling vent already cut in the under side (for electickery) - but that doesn't really matter. £21 ready painted in a choice of colours.
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