The other simple thing with a gyro (or fbl controller) is that the cable mustn't be tight or they will transmit vibration. I use to fly power before electric and having the mixture too lean will kill an engine. With power we had to compromise as the engine would lean out as the plane climbed. So we would set it rich and then lift the nose and check it kept running ok.
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Have you checked to see where your high end needle is set currently? Turn it clockwise until it stops (don't force it) and count how many turns as you do it. Then turn it back anti clockwise and by the sounds of it if there is no smoke and the back plate is too hot to touch then It's too lean, so turn it back anticlockwise a little further than it was previously (a couple of clicks) and see if u get smoke. Usually I think the needle should be around 2-2.5 full turns. Too rich is better than too lean.
I have a couple of old raptors and have a few Irvine engines and they aren't too bad once set up
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Hello There. I used to live in New Mills, 57 new street!
There is an active club in Buxton HPMAC. No waiting list for memebership. Mixed plank and heli club. There are several raptor 30s in the club. I do beleive we even have a member in new mills who flies helis...
Draw back with the club is the flying field is high up near high edge raceway so tends to get a lot of wind.
I'm in Tideswell. I'll pm you my number.www.heli-extreme.co.uk a good club in south Sheffield
600n pro BeastX Align DFC head bls251, 3xbls451, align gov, 600d, 2in1
trex500, BeastX DS510 swash, Beast X cutr and carve head DS520 HK3026-1900, Align 425D blades, 5S4200 rev'trix, K&BDD dampers, AR6200
"450" superframeSTK, align DFC head v2tail, hk22281-8 on 3S 9650w9257gear commander 55A align 325D hitec digitals Tarot ZYX, AR6100e
MCPX kbdd tail and blades, miniaviation bats
Dont spend more flying models than it costs to fly for real
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what fuel tube is used for the clunk limne inside the main tank? Did you change it?
The main tank is pressurised from the exhaust muffler (is that line in place?) and what can happen is the pressure can squash a thin wall clumk line and starve the engine after a little while.
Alternatively its possible the pipe from the exhaust manifold is blocked by old gummy mess. This means theere is no ait getting into the main tank and so after a bit your engine is getting starved. You can just disconnect the pressureline to try this (you could run with no exhaust pressure and the needle open further, but you will need that pressure when you start flying about and pullling G in turns etc).www.heli-extreme.co.uk a good club in south Sheffield
600n pro BeastX Align DFC head bls251, 3xbls451, align gov, 600d, 2in1
trex500, BeastX DS510 swash, Beast X cutr and carve head DS520 HK3026-1900, Align 425D blades, 5S4200 rev'trix, K&BDD dampers, AR6200
"450" superframeSTK, align DFC head v2tail, hk22281-8 on 3S 9650w9257gear commander 55A align 325D hitec digitals Tarot ZYX, AR6100e
MCPX kbdd tail and blades, miniaviation bats
Dont spend more flying models than it costs to fly for real
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Very good advice here, follow this guy's tips to the letter and you'll be fine.
Originally posted by Si Goodchild View PostOkay, here's my 2p worth:
Switching radio to 2.4GHz is priority. Keep the servos, they'll do for now at the hovering stage on a raptor. Get new main blades, ideally carbon, but glass will do. Avoid woodies. Search for Pro 3d blades: they are carbon and work great while costing little. You need 520-550mm blades. The tail gyro an servo are good: keep them. Take the back plate off the engine and check for rust, strip further if you don't like what you see. Change all the fuel pipe lines including the one in the tank. Make sure the one in the tank is very flexible before you go inverted! Check the belt hasn't perished. Remove all the bolts and refit them with blue thread lock. Change tail blades if damaged: I've got some carbon 85mm ones you can have for nowt: happy Christmas! Check all the bearings are running smooth. Check the clutch isn't sprung or grabbing. Google the manual as a pdf and read it! Check the head geometry is correct. Now check it again.
Above all, remember the £200 is an allowance, not a target. You may need more cash later. You'll also need a glow plug igniter, some spare glow plugs, a starter with batteries and some fuel. 20% nitro should be plenty. And a fuel pump. Get some training legs too with crappy looking balls on the end. They'll make the heli fly nasty, but may save you a few quid on the first few tentative hovers. Get rid of them as soon as you realistically can.
Keep us all posted, most of us here like to hear how these projects pan out.
SiHappy flying!
Nik Johnson
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Received and replied - cheersOriginally posted by moyesboy View PostHello There. I used to live in New Mills, 57 new street!
There is an active club in Buxton HPMAC. No waiting list for memebership. Mixed plank and heli club. There are several raptor 30s in the club. I do beleive we even have a member in new mills who flies helis...
Draw back with the club is the flying field is high up near high edge raceway so tends to get a lot of wind.
I'm in Tideswell. I'll pm you my number.
I replaced the crystalised stock one with a hayes clunk line as advised by others earlier in the thread. I have only run 3 litres if 15% nitro (rapicon) since changing it. I'll go check it again.Originally posted by moyesboy View Postwhat fuel tube is used for the clunk limne inside the main tank? Did you change it?
The main tank is pressurised from the exhaust muffler (is that line in place?) and what can happen is the pressure can squash a thin wall clumk line and starve the engine after a little while.
Alternatively its possible the pipe from the exhaust manifold is blocked by old gummy mess. This means theere is no ait getting into the main tank and so after a bit your engine is getting starved. You can just disconnect the pressureline to try this (you could run with no exhaust pressure and the needle open further, but you will need that pressure when you start flying about and pullling G in turns etc).
I just used some metal polish and elbow grease - 'Autosol'.Originally posted by muscleflex View Postthat muffler is SHINY!! how the heck did you manage to clean it up so good?
Aye, he has helped me out a great deal so far and I have followed all of his advice. I even nabbed his carbon blades!Originally posted by BIGUS NIKUS View PostVery good advice here, follow this guy's tips to the letter and you'll be fine.
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I would take another look at raptor technique, as the pages on engine symptoms are pretty good.
Did you check the engine for cracks - i've seen an Irvine with a hare-line (spelling?) crack which was almost invisible to the eye and that gave the owner no manner of headaches in terms of running.
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i would have a look at the carb 'O' rings on the needles and the one sealing the carb to the engine
if they are cracked/split try just engines for a new set
whilst the carb is apart i would give it a clean outHirobo Turbulence D3
a bunch of bls servo's and a 701 gyro
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