Manual for TT Pro-50

[KenMac]

Hi,

Has anyone any idea where I might download a TT Pro-50 manual? I've almost finished building a Raptor 50 V2 and the engine manual has gone into hiding. 'Trouble is, I've also been doing some decorating. I couldn't have thrown the manual out with the decorating junk, could I? I've tried Thunder Tiger's web site, but apart from a parts chart, there's nothing. I've Googled 'til my eyes bleed, but found nothing. I've also tried looking at "tuning tip" web sites to see if I can survive without it, but I get confused. They seem to talk as if there are two adjustments - "Rich setting and lean setting", or somesuch. Trouble is, I can only see one. There's a big screwy-out thingy with a ratchet (well a springy metal strip in some grooves) and that's it. All that I can remember is that I'm supposed to turn it clockwise until it stops and then turn it anticlockwise 3 times..... and the rest is lost in a mist of confusion. I'm going to use some +5 fuel to run the engine in, is that OK? That's what the man in the shop sold me - but was that just what he had in stock? It says Model Technics on the container. Once it's run in, I'll switch to +15 CoolPower, 'cos I can get that mail order. Anyway, before I do anything, I need the manual so I can work out what to do.

Thanks in advance

KenMac

[KenMac]

Hi,

I've just found out that the two settings are Low Speed Needle and High Speed Needle, but I can only see one adjuster. It does have two knurled areas, but I can't turn one without the other turning.

Cheers,

KenMac

[KenMac]

Hi,

'Found the High and Low Speed needles, thanks to :-

http://www.raptortechnique.com/engin...g_beginner.htm

I can probably do most of what I want, from info on this site. However, I'd still like to get the proper manual (well, instruction sheet then). If anyone knows where.....

Thanks,

KenMac

[Ade_Law]

your best bet is to get some help to set the engine up. 3 turns is "stock" but really it needs to be about 4 turns. I cant remember what the stock settings are for the idle mixture I normally get to start then use trial and error.

I have had loads of problems with model technics fuel getting the engine to run consistantly and not overheat.

Ade

[KenMac]

Hi,

Panic over, I've found the instructions and made numerous copies and scanned them into my PC. I'd post them here but there doesn't seem to be the facility to attach documents.

Thanks ADE. I was a bit suspicious about the fuel, I don't know why. I got the feeling they were selling me what they'd got for cars and aeroplanes, rather than what was right for helicopters. Maybe I'll just try and sell it on (at a loss, no doubt) to some mates who run model cars. I think I'll feel happier if I start off with CoolPower. I don't know whether to start off with 10 nitro or 15 nitro. All the tuning sites say 15 or 30, but then I hear warnings that too much nitro burns up your engine and you only need the power for 3D. So low nitro would do to begin with. I then read that "European engines run better with low nitro (or none), but Asian engines need higher nitro." They then go on about shimming the head and other scary stuff. Thunder Tiger don't help matters. The instructions sheet says:

"A good quality fuel containing 25% lubricant and 75% Methanol is recommended for break-in / run-in and general usage. Fuel containing 5% > 30% nitromethane and 20% lubricant is for use when more power is required." It also says, "Do not use fuel containing less than 20% lubricant." It's not as if we've got a lot of choices in the UK.

That seems to imply that you can start off learning with no nitro and increase if you need more power. 'Trouble is, I don't to want burn my engine out because it's not flying and therefore not getting cooled by the flow of air; but I don't want to find that I can't make it hover, only to find that the reason is that the engine hasn't got enough power.

Do I go with the manufacturer or do I go with the experts (who aren't trying to learn)? My instinct is to put a gallon of base mix in to run it in the frame without trying to fly it, then go up to 10 and start trying to hover.

Thanks for your help.

KenMac

[Ade_Law]

Nitro burning up motors is a myth. I have an OS50 hyper here with 30 gallons of 20 or 30% nitro on it, sure its had 2 main bearings and i have just replaced the ring all are relatively cheap parts but its still in great condition.

I havent flown it on the new ring yet thats cursed it!

Coolpower/magnum/wildcat are all good fuels 10 or 15% is fine for hovering more nitro will make the turning a little easier. No shims required in TT motors for high nitro.

for run in, keep it rich, check the engine temperature (finger on the back plate) richer will cool it down. You want to be able to hold your finger on the backplate indefinitely after a 30second hover during run in.

Ade

[KenMac]

Thanks Ade.

I'll stick to CoolPower 10 for a while.

There's one more thing that's bothering me. In the assembly manual it says "It is necessary to add grease inside the clutch after couple ten flights. The clutch might lock up once grease is gone. The One Way Clutch Grease (PV0478) is recommended for this lubrication".

I presume it doesn't really mean the clutch. I can't imagine putting grease on the clutch liner in the clutch bell. I guess it means the Sprague bearing unit on the Main Drive Gear Assembly, which they call "One Way Clutch Housing". This does have grease in it already, but I guess it needs topping up every twenty (couple ten?) or so flights. It seems you have to take these things apart for routine maintenance quite often.

Do you oil the bearings? I haven't, does it matter? Or should I take it apart and oil all 49 of them before flying? I've read one article which says that the only thing wrong with the standard manual is that it doesn't tell you to oil the bearings, yet Raptortechniiques manual, which seems applauded by many, doesn't mention that either.

Then there's the silicon grease on the flap dampers and the grease on the thrust bearings, none of which are in the manufacturers manual, so I haven't done. I think what's missing is a Routine Maintenance section, where lubrication, etc. is specified. Perhaps they assume that people "know".

Cheers,

KenMac

[Ade_Law]

i havent had a problem with leaving the 30/50 auto unit alone as it comes from the factory. Its easy to over oil them which messes them up too.

sealed/shielded bearings come pre greased so no need to do anything with them.

Greasing the dampers helps insallation as the slip neatly in.

I always grease the thrust races.

Ade

[KenMac]

OK Ade,

Thanks very much. There's so much info out there, sometimes conflicting. I guess some of it really applies to experts who're doing advanced stuff. I'll sort the rotor head out and leave the rest.

Once again,

Thanks.

KenMac

[Ade_Law]

shielded bearings come greased from manufacturer. I find that bearings are damaged due to crashing long before regreasing becomes an issue.

but maybe thats just me crashing too much :-)

Ade