One-way lock up GRRRH!!!!!!

[v58fuy]

When I built my N5 I thoguht I would have any lock-ups. My sleeve was just under 12.00mm out of the box, so cleaned out bearing and used light oil.

Upto about a dozen flights or so it's been great, then this afternoon it locked up - have since free'd it up by hand, and had a further flight and it's ok.

I see on Matt's site he is now suggesting loctite between the sleeve and main shaft - not sure I want to go this route as could be a nightmare to get apart again, but what is this trying to achieve?

David

[Jamin_00]

Give Ade999 a pm on here or call him at Climb Out.

0208 668 8335

They'll sort you out

[mark Taylor]

My locked up after a dozen flights as well.

Sprayed some brake & clutch cleaner into the one way to dissolve the grease , then used some compressed air to remove all residue , then applied loads of tri-flow.

Been ok for about 6 flight.

BTW my sleeve is 11.98mm

Hope this helps

Cheers

[MartinH]

What happens when the One way locks up guys

[Andy from Sandy]

What happens when the One way locks up guys

Whilst you are flying around it doesn't actually matter that it is locked up. You can still auto with it locked up as well. What will happen is the blades will drive the clutch bell in an auto which just creates more drag in the system.

[MartinH]

Thanks, wernt sure if it meant the whole head would lock up etc :/.

[mark Taylor]

What happens when the One way locks up guys

My N5 developed a slight vibe on lock -up.

It freed up easily mind ,when I landed.

I new when it locked up as it was smooth as silk for the 1st 30 seconds of flight until it locked.

[ROSSCO]

Mine would do the same, smooth as silk then as soon as the hub locked up it would show itself as a slight vibration, once free'd it would be smooth as silk again.

Mine has been flying faultlessly since i did the modification to the sleeve. I polished the sleeve as it was above the 12mm down to 11.98approx and then polished with wet 'n' dry. I then cleaned all the grease out of the one way bearing with WD40 and then solvent, and then blow out with compressed air. Once this was done i re-lubed with Tri-Flo Oil and it's been working like a champ since.

[v58fuy]

Rossco,

Yeah I thought the same. When I built it from new, I checked the sleeve diameter and it was just under 12.00mm so I thought all would be good - also cleaned out the grease and oiled instead.

When it locked, I now remember it making a funny click noise on the ground as spooling up - then on a full power climbout it had shake as if it was lean (it wasn't), then upon landing it was locked up.

The only thing I would ask is, are we all running the plastic main bearing blocks?
MIne is, and has developed a bit of main shaft play front to back, but absolutely none side to side. If the plastic blocks are allowing the main shaft bearings to move slightly, this would inturn twist the main gear slightly, making it 'climb' up or down the one way sleeve until it can't climb or descent anymore - could this then lead to the one way rollers jamming?

David

[ROSSCO]

Rossco,

Yeah I thought the same. When I built it from new, I checked the sleeve diameter and it was just under 12.00mm so I thought all would be good - also cleaned out the grease and oiled instead.

When it locked, I now remember it making a funny click noise on the ground as spooling up - then on a full power climbout it had shake as if it was lean (it wasn't), then upon landing it was locked up.

The only thing I would ask is, are we all running the plastic main bearing blocks?
MIne is, and has developed a bit of main shaft play front to back, but absolutely none side to side. If the plastic blocks are allowing the main shaft bearings to move slightly, this would inturn twist the main gear slightly, making it 'climb' up or down the one way sleeve until it can't climb or descent anymore - could this then lead to the one way rollers jamming?

David

Hi David,

I am running the plastic bearing blocks on mine, i actually prefer them as they generally are a little easier on the bearings. Running metal bearing blocks seem to be much harder on the bearings especially in a crash. I'll check for any movement in them, i remember having this in Raptors years ago which the bearings would be loose in the plastic moulding, from memory we used to fix it with a spot of CA or Zap-A-Dap Goo. I believe on later mouldings the bearing recess had dimples or spots that once everything was tightend up would hold the bearing snug.

The symptoms of One-Way Lock-Up seems to be a slight wobble on the head or whole heli, that's what mine did and as soon as it locked up it would show up straight away, once free'd up it would be smooth as silk again.

Personally, if the hub is climbing up the sleeve then i can't see it causing the locking up as this is what it's designed to do, but! I'm no engineer so it's always as possiblity!

What i would be tempted to do is remove the sleeve and clean it then give the surface a grind with some heavy grit Wet 'n' Dry to ground the shaft, and then polish it with some fine Wet 'n' Dry, also give the bearing another blast out with some WD40 or similiar to remove/dissolve any grease and then re-lube with tri-flow oil. What sometimes happens is once it has locked up it can mark the sleeve so that it gives it a place where it can lock up again, so polishing it is the best thing to do.

If you have a dremel with a sanding drum, take off the external sanding tube and use the rubber drum inside the sleeve to hold it by expanding the drum with the screw to hold the sleeve in place and then spin the sleeve while using some oil with some Wet 'n' Dry to polish the sleeve. It took me a few goes as the sleeve is hardended.

If you need any help with it let me know.

[v58fuy]

I spoke with Ade last week (really nice guy on the phone) and he told me that the one-way bearing itself was a good quality German bearing - soI doubt this is the issue.

However I have never had a heli with some much up and down and rocking play as the N5 has - some how this must have something to do with the issue.

Rossco, you know I welcome your help, but to remove the one way sleeve everytime you get a lock-up is a real pain, and will eventually lead to it being undersize and then slipping?

Going to have a fly in the morning before going on holiday with the missus,

Kind regards,

David

[ROSSCO]

Hi david,

No Worries, Anytime! the offer is there if you need the hub and sleeve loking at. On Matt Boto's website he does recommend the measurement on the sleeve be between 11.96-11.98mm.

I have polished the sleeve with wet n dry which took a few goes but using a vernier gauge i got it down to within the tollerance given and once the grease was removed and re-lubed with oil i could tell the difference in the hub, it was smoother and much more free spinning. I've since had over 2 gallons through the machine without any further lock-ups.

[Asid]

This is what i would recommend:

Dismantle

• Clean 1 way with Carb cleaner
• Use compressed air to remove any extra particles (optional but good)
• Lube bearing with Light oil*
• Examine Sleeve**
• Assemble
• Fly

* Some Lube some don't. Some people say Tri-Flo with its small particles can cause lock-ups.

**The sleeve may be slightly marked. If it is marked then the rollers from the bearing could foul on these marks. If this is the case then use wet and dry to remove the marks or replace. A warped sleve can also cause problems

Another area to look as is clutch bell support. If it is not true then it can cause issues with the auto unit. Also look for movement in the main shaft area.

These are just ideas that have worked in the past.

Hope it helps

[DaveG]

It sounds like you might have a sleeve which has either got a mark it from a lock up which is just a place where it can lock up again or the sleeve is very slightly on the top end of the tollerance allowed for good autobearing operation.

From reading you previous posts it sounds like you have just removed the grease and oiled, i would follow 'Rossco's' recommendation and tips and give the sleeve a polish to remove any marks from lockup and also to polish the sleeve for size (The Dremel method is a very good idea by the way Rossco!).

The sleeve will be hardened so you don't have to worry about it wearing away and slipping unless you go at it with an angle grinder or something!! Just follow Rossco's tips and polish the sleeve with Wet and Dry sandpaper with some oil and give the bearing a good clean with some WD40 or brake cleaner to remove 'ALL' the grease and then bang some light oil in there!

If you worried about the 'Float' in the autohub then don't it is there for a reason and its there so the autohub can function properly, i've had and seen alot of other machines with alot more 'float' than whats in the N5 hub.