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N5 successfully maidened

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  • N5 successfully maidened

    Maidened the N5 today, only had fuel for 4 tanks.

    Tank1: Started up, fuel bubbling and quickly developed into a foam. I'm guessing I need to take engine out and dial indicated the fan hub after all. I then did a gentle hover and had violent kicks of about 4 inches. Landed and found that the belt had stretched a bit, now I never made the belt that taut, (as I read somewhere else it wasn't necessary) and the stretch was enough for both sides of the belt to touch and induce a catching sensation. Check all nuts and bolts - all good. Vibes showed up in the tail blades vibrating a good 5mm.

    Tank2: Adjusted belt tension and adjusted gyro gain. Lots of foam.

    Tank3: Adjusted mixture and lots of foam.

    Tank4: No messing started having some fun, circuits, stall turns and loops. Beaming smile, one happy owner.

    p.s. this thing flies very straight.

  • #2
    they look a very nice model and all synergys seem to fly straight, very beefy, glad ya had fun mate, enjoy
    Chris 'CHUNK' Newby
    Trex 700E DFC_Align BL800MX_CC160HV_BL700H_BL750H_Spartan VX1n_Haiyin 5000mAh 12s
    Trex 700E DFC_Align BL800MX_CC160HV_BL700H_BL750H_Spartan VX1n_Haiyin 5000mAh 12s
    NAHC-Newton Abbot Heli Club, check out the website at WWW.NAheliclub.org.uk

    ALIGN-TREX.CO.UK team pilot
    LYNX team pilot
    SPARTAN team pilot
    Dx18

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    • #3
      A result then, well done, glad you are liking it.
      Henseleit TDR V-Bar x2
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      • #4
        Excellent News!!.. Good to hear you got the N5 in the air and your enjoying it!!

        If you are still having foaming issues then check the alignment of the engine, the pinch style hub should require no dial indicating but the design of the clutch stack does allow you some movement to get a good gear meash and alignment. If the alignment is off slightly it can induce a small vibration. Best way to get a good alignment is to have the engine bolted tight to the engine mounts but leave the engine mount bolts to frame loose, also leave the clutch stack bearing block bolts loose also. Set the gear meash of the pinion gear to main gear with a slip of paper in between the gear and pinion and then push on the block towards the gear and tighten the bolts, next adjust the engineby lifting it up and down while twisting the start shaft, what you are looking for here is a smooth spot which will indicate the start shaft is in alignment with the engine. Once you have set this tighten up the enigne mount bolts and make sure the start shaft still runs smooth, take out the slip of paper and you should have a perfect gear mech and alignment.

        Good to hear you enjoying it so far, trust me it just gets better and better!!.. My N5 is probably my favorite machine at the moment!! it fly's exactly how i want it and its very comfortable to fly.
        Thanks!
        Rossco
        sigpic
        Synergy N7 / Synergy E7SE / Synergy E5
        Synergy R/C Helicopters / Rail Blades / Fast-Lad Performance Flight Team
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        • #5
          I maidened mine the other day and now have about 8 flights on it. I too had some initial fuel foaming, but after tuning the motor better it seems to have reduced a lot.

          I now have my gyro gain wound up, after changing the Solid G to the 'Vibe' option - no more rebound on stops and tail feels really locked.

          One problem which I have had (replacements on the way) - but I lost a canopy thumbscrew in the air. They were all checked and tightened before flight, but one has vibrated loose and fallen out. Are there any suggestions as to how to avoid this in the future?

          David

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          • #6
            Originally posted by v58fuy View Post
            One problem which I have had (replacements on the way) - but I lost a canopy thumbscrew in the air. They were all checked and tightened before flight, but one has vibrated loose and fallen out. Are there any suggestions as to how to avoid this in the future?
            This happened to me also. Fortunately I had a number of friends with me and we all made a little search pattern and luckily found the missing canopy screw. I'm now using some M3 screws with washers instead for the moment, until I sort my vibe issues.

            I used to use thumb screws on my raptor and was forever losing the things on that also.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by v58fuy View Post
              Are there any suggestions as to how to avoid this in the future?
              A tip that I picked up of Paul (sacko) is to put a little thread lock on the canopy bolts, wind them into the mounts and leave over night. Next day, undo the bolts, and there will be cured residue on the threads, this will make winding the mounting bolts in stiffer, so wont fall out with vibration.
              Henseleit TDR V-Bar x2
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              V-Control

              Proud owner of TWO!! Platinum Stars!

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              • #8
                Hi David,

                With the canopy thumb screws, i've had a similiar problem with the N9 thumb screws. with the front canopy mounting center post the threads are only threaded so far so the actual thumb screw does'nt thread fully in and bottom out so you can tighten it down. The rear mounts were threaded all the way if memory serves. What i did on both my N9 and N5 was to take a 3mm tap and thread both side of the front center canopy mounting to allow the screws to be fully screwed in and then be fully tightened up.

                The OS 55 does tend to be a little vibe'y untill its broken in and tweeked where it will smoothen out. Also something like a paddle slightly out of alignment or main blades not tracking perfectly can cause a slight tank foaming.

                On one of my other machines that seemed to spit its canopy thumg screws i used to put a little semi-solid thread lock on the threads every so often. These are the Pritt Stick types of threadlock from Loctite.
                Thanks!
                Rossco
                sigpic
                Synergy N7 / Synergy E7SE / Synergy E5
                Synergy R/C Helicopters / Rail Blades / Fast-Lad Performance Flight Team
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                • #9
                  There is a quick release kit available for the rear mounts which eliminates the thumb screws. A kit for the front is in production apparently. However, it's not cheap at £18 ish just for the rear
                  Synergy whore

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                  • #10
                    These are the R/C-Booya Quick Release Canopy Mounts:
                    Fast Lad Performance
                    Thanks!
                    Rossco
                    sigpic
                    Synergy N7 / Synergy E7SE / Synergy E5
                    Synergy R/C Helicopters / Rail Blades / Fast-Lad Performance Flight Team
                    Equipment for Sale:

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                    • #11
                      As Rob said above, a bit of thread lock on the threads of the canopy thumb screws is all that's needed. Leave it over night then use them as normal. I'm on my originals at 101 flights on mine now.

                      I've got zero fuel foaming on mine, and don't remember having any from the start. Check the clutch stack alignment, you shouldn't pull it tight to the main gear, follow Matt botos' tip for this to get a free running system, other than that, engine tuning is the likely culprit.

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                      • #12
                        I always just tightened by thumb screws down fully with a hex drive in the bolt. Kinda defeats the point of them being thumb screws, but works none the less!!

                        Regards

                        Paul

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                        • #13
                          I've put loctite on the thumbscrews and will leave overnight.

                          My OS55 started out new a bit viby at tickover, but now with about 8 tanks through it, it has all but gone - the fuel tank in a hover is now flat calm (I spent a long time getting the gear mesh/engine stack alignment as good as i could get it).

                          One thing I have noticed is that the main and tail grips are very sensitive to bolt tightness and possbly temperature - meaning the main and tail blades sometimes loosen up a bit, may just have to run a little tighter.

                          My one way bearing is still very free, mine measured about 11.95/11.98 out of the box, so cleaned out the grease and used light oil from start - keep fingers crossed here but so far great.

                          My belt tension doesn't seem to have changed a great deal in these early flights. I'm not running the belt that tight, and can here the belt clang against the inside of the boom on the ground, if you lift the tail up and down - but it runs really well in the air with no belt clanging when airbourne.

                          Tried a few loops and rolls, stationary flips and rollls etc - all very good, in fact the loop almost caught me out because I was very surprised in the pull during the upward climb part - might need a bigger field!!

                          David

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                          • #14
                            Having witnessed the maiden flight on Sunday at the club I can honestly say I look forward to totalling my Raptor if I get to replace it with an N5 :-)

                            I was very impressed at how crisp it seemed to fly and all I saw at that time was some basic hovering. I look forward to seeing it put through it's paces.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by airwolf View Post
                              Having witnessed the maiden flight on Sunday at the club I can honestly say I look forward to totalling my Raptor if I get to replace it with an N5 :-)

                              I was very impressed at how crisp it seemed to fly and all I saw at that time was some basic hovering. I look forward to seeing it put through it's paces.
                              Hey Scott, you found me again, lol.

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