N5 - Inflight failure - Preflight check warning!!

[Grant_beltcp]

what was the cause of yours in the end Nick? I havnt had mine back in the air yet to check the problems with binding on the flybar cage. Hopefully sort that this weekend at MK (Roger said he'll take a look for me).

I think its probably only sunday I can make though to MK.

[synergyn9]

what was the cause of yours in the end Nick? I havnt had mine back in the air yet to check the problems with binding on the flybar cage. Hopefully sort that this weekend at MK (Roger said he'll take a look for me).

I think its probably only sunday I can make though to MK.

It was sent off to Climb Out by Revolution Models last week for investigation and I haven't heard anything back yet. Should add that is through no fault of Climb Out 's. I've been manically busy at work all this week and not had chance to chase.

Will update when I know more, really want to get it fixed and get some flight time on it. Just hope I remember to check the mast collar, lol

[Smoothound]

Just done my collar it was tapped out both sides as well.

[Dodger]

If any N5 owners who have the double tapped collars are concerned about drilling out the thread please contact us directly at Climb Out - we have some replacement collars which can be sent out directly.

[Britflyer]

If any N5 owners who have the double tapped collars are concerned about drilling out the thread please contact us directly at Climb Out - we have some replacement collars which can be sent out directly.

Or to help save drilling to far simply screw the 2.5mm bolt from the other side upto the split line of the collar. That way when you drill thru with a 2.5mm drill the drill will bottom out on the point of the bolt rather than into the thread of the collar.


Paul

[waveydavey]

Anyone know where to get odd-ball size bearings?

The upper mainshaft bearing is 10x19x6, which is £10 for one for Synergy part number!! A search on Modelfixings, RC Bearings and Ebay finds nothing.

If there was one place on a heli to use 'standard' sizes, mainshaft bearings which get replaced quite often, would be one of them!!

I'll probably end up using 10x19x5 and a spacer unless someone can point me to a reasonable source.

Cheers

Paul

Pm sent Paul

For everyone else I can source these bearings at £6 each. You'll have to pay a bit of postage though.

[richieclarkie]

Hi guys....... Listen I've spoken to Matt Lodge who is in the car at the moment. He flew yesterday after he had drilled the collar.

Before he had done this he had no probs with the collar slipping. After he drilled it it slipped!

We had a similar problem with the Knight 3Ds with alloy versions of the collars. They often slipped. In the end Rob Blake suggested using the steel versions from the Sport. Although things improved it was never as secure as the align grubs screw type one.

Perhaps it might be worth investigating this a bit more.

[ChrisB]

Can they not just do a redesign and use the same system as Align use on the 550 and 700?

Slipping is impossible in these cases..

[richieclarkie]

I agree Chris, but I think the idea is if the collar is underneath it's added protection if the lower jesus bolt fails as the collar will stop the whole head with mainshaft from ejecting itself.

I would have though a good compromise would be a mainshaft with a slight recess under the top bearing block and a grub screw type collar. That way then any damage it causes does not affect the removal. Just like the Align 600 but the collar underneath instead of over the top bearing block.

I know Mattie and Rob Blake think this is a good idea.

[v58fuy]

I haven't got my N5 yet (fingers crossed a few days) - but been watching all the threads so know any issues when building mine, had a couple of thoughts about the 'issue'.

I would have thought that the clamp style locking collar could be tighened such that the mast won't move, however if you want a little added security then I think you could:

1) Use a small amount of bearing fix type loctite on the collar, this I think wouldn't move at all?

2) Use a main shaft clamp from something like the Vibe 50, which has both clamp type bolt, and grub screw.

Both the above methods would require the top bearing block to be removed with the main shaft - but is that really an issue?

David

[Grant_beltcp]

Richie - the only issue with your methid of grooving the shaft for the collar to fit in is that it creates a very weak point for main shaft. In a crash you will almost certainly bend it there (even in between the 2 main bearing blocks) making it almost impossible to remove without damage bearings and bearing blocks. I've tried this methos in other applications before now .

I think the best way for now is to loctite the shaft, then slide the collar up onto it and tighten it up. thats what i'll be trying with mine tonight.

[Britflyer]

I guess the problem is that both methods have positives and negatives. That I think Matt covered in one of his earlier posts.

When I rebuild I think I will loctite mine also.

There is also lots of room so I could fit about 4 collars just to be safe :-D


Paul

[rspblake]

Grant,
We was talking about a 3 or 4 tenths of a mm under cut so the grub would mark in the recess, so still allowing the shaft to be removed..

There will be no weak point ...

In a crash the top bearing will be shot anyway that for certain, the lower one seems to be OK most of the time.

So use what we have and locktite the collar that should work, you can run two..

Just to correct Richie.. the steel locking collar on the Kn3d was a clamp type that was changed from a Ali one due to slipping, the sport one due to the fact it was above the top bearing was a grub idea and was drilled at 90 deg.

Can I say that Matt (Synergy) should be congratulated for being up front.
Let's be honest he is taking one on the chin for something that was not his fault and not of his making.
By standing up and supporting Paul.. He has done more than most other manufacture do by not blaming the builder, he has found why, reported it and been precise in a cure. well done mate..

Dave, this is one model you should look at in the Autumn. One, it will be all OK by then and two, the guys at the top want too not only stand by the product but also want to stand by there customers..

[richieclarkie]

Just to correct Richie.. the steel locking collar on the Kn3d was a clamp type that was changed from a Ali one due to slipping, the sport one due to the fact it was above the top bearing was a grub idea and was drilled at 90 deg.

Ahh OK so was the steel one from the original knight pro?

[rspblake]

Ahh OK so was the steel one from the original knight pro?

sport and the pro are the same, the 3d was clamp style..they are all steel..