Cant be far off the Velocity skids, will measure up later on.
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N5 - The Build
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Can I ask a rude question and ask what it has cost you total for the builds?
Research you see
Synergy N5C with 3GX on the bench
Trex 500 ESP FBL BeastX -soooooooooo fast
Trex 700 LE Beast X'd and no sticky out bits
Velocity 90 BeastX FBL-the love affair has begun!
Newton Abbot Heli CLub where the sun always shines
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Mines not even here yet but almost all my running gear is second hand. I've not totted up the cost yet either
Phil
"Be who you are and say what you think...
Because those that matter...don't mind...
And those that mind... don't matter"
Blade 130x, Park Zone Mini Sukhoi, EDF F16 thingy, some Gliders and some broken stuff
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I wouldn't know tbh, I've had most of the stuff for it since christmas, so bought it over a while.
Kit £449
Engine £189
Pipe £65
Blades and paddles £105
Gyro + Servo £200ish
Cyclic servos £195
Reg + lipo £40
Governor £45
Throttle servo £60
Receiver £65
Think thats it, total £1413. I guess you could add another £30ish in bits and pieces like velcro straps, braiding, remote glow adaptor, cable ties etc etc. You could definately do it cheaper, but I've set mine up to be right from the start, no changing anything out. I'm also sure if buying a complete setup from new you would get a good discount with the right retailer if haggling
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Rough estimate follows:-
Kit £449
Cyclics/Regulator, Glow and Batt/Pipe/Tail servo £200
Governor £100 plus backplate sensor and ally bracket and a few other bits around £30 assuming I don't already have them.
Throttle servo, DS3500 I already had
Spartan was removed from my 500 T-Rex when it went V-Bar
OS55 £140
Tail blades £23
AR 7000 £30
No main blades purchased yet
No paddles purchased yet
Probably got another £50 to spend on braid, cables etc.
Think that is it
Phil
"Be who you are and say what you think...
Because those that matter...don't mind...
And those that mind... don't matter"
Blade 130x, Park Zone Mini Sukhoi, EDF F16 thingy, some Gliders and some broken stuff
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The N5 head seems to provide an inherently quite solid feel to the heli. Using radix SBs it is plenty quick enough for me and is stable in pretty much all aspects of flight. The metal grips do provide a very immediate reaction to inputs and I would recommend some expo to relax things. My personal preference is to go for regular Radix. The N5 is capable of very fast forward flight and is nice through big manouvres, at ballistic speeds it will start to become sensitive to elevator with the SB blades, normal radix will be smoother. Hope this helps.Originally posted by v58fuy View PostRaptorheli,
Thank you very much, can you recommend paddles - I would ideally like a degree of stability in a hover without pitching in forward flight.
David
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Roger, What set-up do you use for the head on yours? the same as Matt botos's recomendations?
Everyone who flew your's seemed to love it, so I gues your settings would be a sensible place to start.Sponsored by - Align - CSM Gyro's - OptiFuel/OptiPower - Kontronik Drives UK
Align 700E DFC
www.robochallenge.co.uk
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Just stripped the thread in the main blade grip where the arms attach!! Arrgh!!
Not alot of meat there in the first place, but like to think it was a dodgy thread rather than over torqueing as it happened on the 2nd grip I did.
So to anyone building still I suggest checking the threads in the blade grips and go easy tightening the outside of the two fixing bolts!
Paul
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Hi Stuart, i take it you purchased another N9?Originally posted by Stuart View PostWill a FBL conversion kit be on the cards soon ? - debating in my head to keep the N9 std and put the vbar on the N5 if a conversion kit is coming this will make the decision much easier. :-)
I am still flying the N9 i bought from you, and its still by far my favourite model, also i have not needed (yet!) to use any of the mountain of spares you provided!
Regards Brian
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yes weighed mine with a full tank and it came out at 4.3kg all up, but tbh I think I'm gonna remove the header and go wit ha fuel magnet, as the header just looks plain ugly, and I may well remove all the braiding on the cables; it will be easier to tidy the wiring without them I rekon.
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