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I am going to do a shorter build thread than the N7, because alot of the heli is the same or very similar. This is of benefit to both Model Shops and modellers carrying spares, and also in manufacturing costs.
The E7se is an updated version of the original E7, with the most noticeable change being the inclusion of a torque tube. This has vastly improved my Synergy N5c because of the drag on the drive train caused by pulling a belt tightly around pulleys and gears to get it to fit down the boom. On my N5c, the belt would pull the boom into the frame a bit during flight, causing the belt to slap inside the boom!
Other changes to the SE is a lower head block for ultra fast 3D, plus it looks sleeker, and with that comes swash phasing arms bolted directly to the head. The tail drive ratio can be changed by buying 1 gear. It comes with a ratio of 4.9:1 for 106 blades and upto 1950 HS. If you want to run 2000+ HS, then drop your ratio to 4.5:1 and spin 116 tail blades. There are large Motor mount side plates that not only aid in cooling the motor, but also have a big area to clamp down against the carbon frame so these very little chance of the motor moving in flight. Finally, there is an alloy tail pitch slider that unscrews allowing you to change the slider bearing, unlike the N5c/N7 thats held with a once only press on star washer.
As with the N7, Synergy have all the bolts/nuts/set screws etc all partially installed in their correct locations on sub Assembly's. This not only aids assembly, but also its to be sure all the kit parts are picked on the production line. Each assembly comes sealed in a plastic bag...
First up, the nasty part, is to get all the carbon edge's sanded and smoothed off. The carbon is 'real' carbon, not glass cloth with a single skin of carbon on each face like some other manufacturers use!!
We start the assembly with the base plate. It's worth noting that all the holes are countersunk to the correct depth!! Seeing as your lipos will slide in over this, thats a good thing, but surprisingly something I see alot on other kits thats not done correctly.
Next on the list is the Main Shaft Bearing Blocks. The bearings are in pretty tight, si I did not press them out and re do the bearing retainer locktite. Just be sure to check for correct orientation of the bearings, so they are held captive in the frame.
Now you can start assembling loosely the LH frame side with the bearing blocks and base plate. NO locktite on the threads yet!!
Onto the Sensor mount plate and the Lower Frame brace assembly.
The front Transmission module is next to do. I wont go to much into this as its just a case of stripping it apart (i did it one side at a time) degreasing all the threads, and rebuilding it. Key point here is that set screw that the Nylock is screwed onto. It must be removed, degrease, RED locktite and reinstalled. This pushes against the crown wheel drive roll pin, and if that falls out, you have just lost tail drive!! ( There's another one in the tail output shaft I'll cover later) The Nylock and washer just hold the bearing in place.
When installing it in the frame, just keep it loose for now.
The Sensor mount and lower frame brace along with the RH side frame can be installed now. Now that you have your frame built up, its time to get it aligned and square. I use a sheet of toughened glass to do this, nut any flat surface like a kitchen work top will do. Set a square vertically up its side frame, and nip frame screws up to keep it in place. Now degrease and locktite each bolt in turn on the bearing blocks and tighten them. I do this opposite ends, opposites sides so it keeps a torsional rigidity while tightening. At this point, I have not done the front transmission bolts of the bottom place screws, but more of that later.
Next part is to get the servos in while you have the space to move around the frame. First up is the tail servo, withs its alloy mounts.
then onto the Cyclic servos. It's a hard job getting the servo wires through the alloy bearing blocks as you have very little room to twist the servo. Just be careful not to put to much pressure on the servo wire and grommet. Once in, they can have their horns fitted if you have a servo centring devise. The horns are carbon with 20mm ball spacing. These bolt through the standard Futaba round wheel. Just rotate the wheel to get the centre 4 holes as near to 90 as you can. The ball at the end is recommended to be held with RED locktite.
The E7se is an updated version of the original E7, with the most noticeable change being the inclusion of a torque tube. This has vastly improved my Synergy N5c because of the drag on the drive train caused by pulling a belt tightly around pulleys and gears to get it to fit down the boom. On my N5c, the belt would pull the boom into the frame a bit during flight, causing the belt to slap inside the boom!
Other changes to the SE is a lower head block for ultra fast 3D, plus it looks sleeker, and with that comes swash phasing arms bolted directly to the head. The tail drive ratio can be changed by buying 1 gear. It comes with a ratio of 4.9:1 for 106 blades and upto 1950 HS. If you want to run 2000+ HS, then drop your ratio to 4.5:1 and spin 116 tail blades. There are large Motor mount side plates that not only aid in cooling the motor, but also have a big area to clamp down against the carbon frame so these very little chance of the motor moving in flight. Finally, there is an alloy tail pitch slider that unscrews allowing you to change the slider bearing, unlike the N5c/N7 thats held with a once only press on star washer.
As with the N7, Synergy have all the bolts/nuts/set screws etc all partially installed in their correct locations on sub Assembly's. This not only aids assembly, but also its to be sure all the kit parts are picked on the production line. Each assembly comes sealed in a plastic bag...
First up, the nasty part, is to get all the carbon edge's sanded and smoothed off. The carbon is 'real' carbon, not glass cloth with a single skin of carbon on each face like some other manufacturers use!!
We start the assembly with the base plate. It's worth noting that all the holes are countersunk to the correct depth!! Seeing as your lipos will slide in over this, thats a good thing, but surprisingly something I see alot on other kits thats not done correctly.
Next on the list is the Main Shaft Bearing Blocks. The bearings are in pretty tight, si I did not press them out and re do the bearing retainer locktite. Just be sure to check for correct orientation of the bearings, so they are held captive in the frame.
Now you can start assembling loosely the LH frame side with the bearing blocks and base plate. NO locktite on the threads yet!!
Onto the Sensor mount plate and the Lower Frame brace assembly.
The front Transmission module is next to do. I wont go to much into this as its just a case of stripping it apart (i did it one side at a time) degreasing all the threads, and rebuilding it. Key point here is that set screw that the Nylock is screwed onto. It must be removed, degrease, RED locktite and reinstalled. This pushes against the crown wheel drive roll pin, and if that falls out, you have just lost tail drive!! ( There's another one in the tail output shaft I'll cover later) The Nylock and washer just hold the bearing in place.
When installing it in the frame, just keep it loose for now.
The Sensor mount and lower frame brace along with the RH side frame can be installed now. Now that you have your frame built up, its time to get it aligned and square. I use a sheet of toughened glass to do this, nut any flat surface like a kitchen work top will do. Set a square vertically up its side frame, and nip frame screws up to keep it in place. Now degrease and locktite each bolt in turn on the bearing blocks and tighten them. I do this opposite ends, opposites sides so it keeps a torsional rigidity while tightening. At this point, I have not done the front transmission bolts of the bottom place screws, but more of that later.
Next part is to get the servos in while you have the space to move around the frame. First up is the tail servo, withs its alloy mounts.
then onto the Cyclic servos. It's a hard job getting the servo wires through the alloy bearing blocks as you have very little room to twist the servo. Just be careful not to put to much pressure on the servo wire and grommet. Once in, they can have their horns fitted if you have a servo centring devise. The horns are carbon with 20mm ball spacing. These bolt through the standard Futaba round wheel. Just rotate the wheel to get the centre 4 holes as near to 90 as you can. The ball at the end is recommended to be held with RED locktite.
V-Bar x2
I have two tools in my tool box. A hammer...... and a condom. If that doesn't work then it's TJFGOP.... The Jobs Fd Going On The P:::::::
+ 7 x Eddies finest EGS's
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