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The ENV manual is one of the best I have seen but here are a few build pointers! If you have anymore I will add to the first post:
1) Velcro Straps Placement - If you plan to mount your lipo on the bottom of the radio tray fit the two velcro straps through the radio tray BEFORE fitting the front side frames. It is almost impossible to fit the straps once the frames have been bolted in place.
2) Hatori Muffler - The base plate and the silicone grommets for the SB-20 barely rub. I sanded the grommets down on one machine, and on the other I ground out the base plate. Time will tell (hopefully not anytime soon!) how it holds up in a crash like this. I don't expect it to be any more prone to breaking. I found the life of the grommets to be shortened if they’re let to rub the carbon. Either a bit of sand paper on the grommets or a dremmel to the base plate works. (Colin Bell Tip)
3) V-Bar Setup - If you are using a Vbar you will need to replace two of the balls (with shorter ones) on the inner swash ring to increase resolution of the system. Replace the ones that connect to the Blade Grips. I used the Quick UK 4mm balls - Quick UK Retail - shop-products
4) Canopy Reinforcement - CA glue some fiber glass cloth onto the inside of the canopy where it touches the rubber stoppers, located at top of the electronics tray. I used to do this with my Raptors around the front canopy supports because it helped prevent the paint from cracking over time in that area. (Colin Bell Tip)
5) Boom Supports - The left hand boom support bolt can’t easily be removed with the Hatori pipe, so I moved them to the upper hole of the rear frame brace. I can’t tell a difference in flight between the two positions. The bolt can be checked with a short 90 deg. allen wrench in the stock location, but it’s not easy to get out. For most people it’s not a problem, but if you plan to break the heli down often for shipping/traveling purposes and you’re using a Hatori or Align pipe, moving the supports makes life a lot easier. (Colin Bell Tip)
Cheers
Paul
1) Velcro Straps Placement - If you plan to mount your lipo on the bottom of the radio tray fit the two velcro straps through the radio tray BEFORE fitting the front side frames. It is almost impossible to fit the straps once the frames have been bolted in place.
2) Hatori Muffler - The base plate and the silicone grommets for the SB-20 barely rub. I sanded the grommets down on one machine, and on the other I ground out the base plate. Time will tell (hopefully not anytime soon!) how it holds up in a crash like this. I don't expect it to be any more prone to breaking. I found the life of the grommets to be shortened if they’re let to rub the carbon. Either a bit of sand paper on the grommets or a dremmel to the base plate works. (Colin Bell Tip)
3) V-Bar Setup - If you are using a Vbar you will need to replace two of the balls (with shorter ones) on the inner swash ring to increase resolution of the system. Replace the ones that connect to the Blade Grips. I used the Quick UK 4mm balls - Quick UK Retail - shop-products
4) Canopy Reinforcement - CA glue some fiber glass cloth onto the inside of the canopy where it touches the rubber stoppers, located at top of the electronics tray. I used to do this with my Raptors around the front canopy supports because it helped prevent the paint from cracking over time in that area. (Colin Bell Tip)
5) Boom Supports - The left hand boom support bolt can’t easily be removed with the Hatori pipe, so I moved them to the upper hole of the rear frame brace. I can’t tell a difference in flight between the two positions. The bolt can be checked with a short 90 deg. allen wrench in the stock location, but it’s not easy to get out. For most people it’s not a problem, but if you plan to break the heli down often for shipping/traveling purposes and you’re using a Hatori or Align pipe, moving the supports makes life a lot easier. (Colin Bell Tip)
Cheers
Paul
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