Outrage 550: Bad case of tooth decay...

[GravityKills]

EDIT this may have been a loose motor screw after all, a while ago.
EDIT 2: Busted another one :censored!!:

Main wheel stripped after between 50 and 100 flights.
On closer examination, it is obvious that the remaining teeth are badly worn.
Maybe I'll have more luck with the CNC main gear (the real CNC main wheel). I thought I'd had my share of main gear problems with the T-Rex 700, but no...

[SRH990]

I've been having good results with these R550200-2 - R550200-2 High Quality Plastic Main gears (2pcs) 140T 0.7M - Outrage 550. The moulded gears are more round than the delrin gear I had before which had quite a high spot and was difficult to mesh, it stripped pretty early as did it's replacement. The moulded gear actually seem stronger with little wear and I can run a very tight mesh without problems.

[GravityKills]

Thanks. I'll give those a shot.
If the picture is correct, it's not the default wheel that comes with the kit (the holes are shaped differently). So maybe they improved it.

[GravityKills]

Oh I remembered something: There is a chance, that one motor screw was a bit loose for a while. I thought it was with an earlier wheel, but now I'm not 100 % sure.
This may have worn down the teeth.

[GravityKills]

OK here goes another one. It lived through only a couple of flights.

I switched to a 10 tooth pinion. Now the heli is nearly free of bogging even at full pitch - the power is insane. Unfortunately, the main gear can't handle it and stripped after one minute.
I'll turn down the pitch curve and order more wheels.
.

[robgt]

Are you getting your main gear to motor pinion mesh tight enough?
It has to be pretty tight with almost zero backlash.

Cheers,
Rob

[SRH990]

I'd re-check the pinion mesh after a couple of reasonable gentle flights, the main gear will bed in a little and you will probably be able to tighten the mesh a little more.

Running a 10T pinion will tend to make gear stripping worse as there's less contact area, a larger pinion is better but then you've either got insane headspeeds or are running a low % throttle on the ESC and struggling with overheating.

If you are still running the machined delrin gears then I think you are still going to struggle, the moulded plastic gear seems stronger but I don't think it's available in the UK yet.

[moonmanflyer]

I check my meshing regulary, i have had one gear go but was my fault, meshing was to loose, been ok since

[GravityKills]

yes, there was zero play on the tighter spot and a tiny little bit of play on others. It was set as carefully as I could.

The motor is incredibly powerful, and I was really pushing it. I'll have to dial down the pitch curve and use more headspeed and hope that will last. As an alternative, I'm expecting 17 tooth pinions for the Kv 710 motor, which should be much easier on the main gear.
It's funny that some of the "CNC" wheels that I bought clearly have a moulded body. You can see moulding flash in the holes, also the points where the plastic enters the mould. I once had a fully machined gear, where clearly the whole body was milled.

[Ashley Davis]

nobody said they were CNC, they are delrin....... at which point people assume that it must be CNC, which it isn't. The delrin gears are moulded as are the plastic ones.

[GravityKills]

>> nobody said they were CNC
except the product itself
R550228-1 goes by the name of "Precision CNC Delrin Main gear"

R550228-1 - R550228-1 Precision CNC Delrin Main Gear 140T 0.7M OUTRAGE 550

PS watch out for the shipping costs. It makes no sense to buy there.

[Ashley Davis]

the very first originals were CNC I believe but since then I think they swapped to moulded gears.

Either way the plastic gear works better than the delrin one anyway.