Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

500 3D Build Thread

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    hi p4ddy my logo 500 3d .

    scorpion 420-1100 kv motor

    3 x futaba 9255

    401 gyro but ill up this later,

    6s 5000 electrolyte.

    kontronik 80-6-18 speed controller.

    other guys here are using z power which are good to + there are as you no other servo options to , im sure others will chime in

    Comment


    • #17
      Same motor here as Jim, the 4200 / 1100. I've taken the Spartan out of the setup now as the v-bar does the tail too.
      sigpicX2

      Comment


      • #18
        Looking good

        I reckon your be well pleased with the performance....

        Just a quick tip with regards to the V-bar, and not often told TBH.

        The V-bar system needs to be calibrated to your tx, it sees +1600 and -1600, when in live mode on the screen your see the values the tx is outputting, if any are way off use end points to get the value to around 1600. Your never get the exact value but try and get as close as.

        All the best.
        Mark.



        Mikado~Kontronik~Scorpion~Revo~V-Stabi

        Comment


        • #19
          Look forward to more info also,i have just put my first Logo 500 3d into the air and i love it,stunning model to fly.

          Will be watching the flybarless side of things with great interest.

          If i try flybarless though,it would be the new mini V bar one on a Logo 400

          Comment


          • #20
            Does anyone have a link to a "what's in the box" as i've searched but get nothing?
            Yes the big sigpic is coming back

            Comment


            • #21
              P4ddy,

              the quick answer toyour 'whats inthe box' question is:

              Not an awful lot..

              The 500 comes with just it's bare airframe and a canopy, Mikado leave the decision to the pilot on what blades to run, what motor and esc to choose, whether or not to go to 5s or 6s for batteries. It's also got a VERY low parts count so you might be a bit disappointed to see the contents of the box.

              I can't say enough about the quality of the manual though, and the bits in the box do just fall together to make a fabulous looking and performing heli. However, it's no carbon and cnc alloy tart. Just a 'different' type of plastic that just works.

              The carbon tail you see up there is a 30 to 50 quid extra, the alloy v-bar head is about £110 at the mo. It's not a cheap machine to put together but I'm soooooo excited to fly mine it's untrue...
              sigpicX2

              Comment


              • #22
                CNC Alloy tart

                Well i'll be sticking with the good old fashioned flybar as a Vbar will blow any electronics budget. It's gonna take time getting it all though Thanks for that info, i'm just hearing sooooo many good things about this heli. Maybe i'll do my own "what's in the box" or a "What's not"
                Yes the big sigpic is coming back

                Comment


                • #23
                  P4ddy, ok so what's not in the box (or in other words, what else you'll need to buy) is:

                  Motor, ESC, Main Blades, Batteries, battery connectors, 3x cyclic servo, tail servo, receiver.

                  You do get a set of plastic 85mm tail blades which, to be fair, are rather flexible. A decent set of tail blades are the only thing I've yet to buy for it.
                  sigpicX2

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    We need more pictures!
                    As a side note it might be worth checking out if the head should be leading or trailing edge control, I know the mikado T-rex 500 V-bar conversion head shows LE control in the instructions but it's supposed to be TE! Worth looking into

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I cant speek for the rex, but mikados use the leading edge, even with or with out flybar.
                      One thing to watch out for.
                      when you assemble the thrusts in the tail make sure the one with the larger hole goes in first.
                      Some of the build manuals are not correct they show large hole on the outside.

                      The order is large internal diameter first ,,bearing cage,, small internal diameter on the out side.

                      Will you be running grounding wires,, boom,,,motor mount ect?
                      If you want a pic or diagram of how ive done mine give me a shout.
                      Ivor

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Ivor, I hadn't considered grounding the heli as I'm running 2.4 ghz. However I'm all ears if it's something that will be beneficial.

                        I take it it's just a case of popping a wire from the motor mount to the tailboom?
                        sigpicX2

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          on 2.4
                          Some say do some say dont but i say
                          why take the chance for the sake of a bit of wire and a couple of connectors why risk it.
                          I am still old school 35meg but even when the day comes i do switch to 2.4, i will be grounding them still.
                          I run from the - power wire on the ESC,, up to the motor bolt,,from the motor bolt to the boom.

                          To connect to the boom i drill a small hole in the center of the boom at the bottom (sand it to remove the paint around the hole), i then use a small ring terminal on the end of the wire, screw this into the boom with a stumpy self taper and locktite.

                          Ivor

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            hi Ivor was just about to ask about this as well,quot I run from the - power wire on the ESC , sorry im a bit thick which one do you mean , hehe

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              on the main power wires,, input from the lipo to the ESC
                              tap in to the black - main power wire.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                cheers ivor, i thought about it after it had to be black, doh

                                regards jim

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X