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Hi All,
I know this has been covered, but Jamin's pics appear to have gone? and I thought I'd amalgamate my experience with other build threads and videos!!
I was quite surprised to find there was no manual, or grease, loctite etc, but maybe I've been spoilt with the Gaui kits I've built. I downloaded the manual from the Agile site, and printed it off.
All the hardware comes in closeable bags, clearly labelled with size and quantity. I looked at the parts needed for each page, took ONLY that amount from the bag. At least I knew I'd used all I was supposed to use, in case I ended up with "spares".
The main components were all in foam packaging, very well protected.
First impressions are very good. Quality gear and really well engineered.
I started with the frames, unlike most that seem to have started with the tail. I always add my servos at the end of the build, but decided to do things by the book for a change, it does make you think you're closer to finishing lol.
Although the manual shows that bearings need loctiting before assembly, they're all fitted and glued in (I didn't want to knock them too hard). Page 6 is just basic frame components, so no headaches yet.
Page 7 shows motor fitting and calls for loctite on the pinion gear grub screws. I didn't bother until it was belt fitting time. Motor plate has holes for 25 & 30mm pitch, which is a bonus! The main shaft plates were a breeze to assemble, as all bearings were fitted. I tried assembling the plates without using the mainshaft to line things up and they were absolutely spot on.The mainshaft dropped straight through the lot. Testament indeed to the quality of engineering.
Page 10 was my first stumbling block (of sorts). All the bearings were again pre fitted in the main blade grips. I slid the thrust bearings out and they were very well packed with grease. The problem was the sizes given for washers that go on the ends of the feathering shaft. They are marked as 5x13x1.2 in the manual, but marked and measured as 5x12x1.8 in the packets provided. Now I know it's not a major issue,but it did take a while to sift through all the remaining packets( bear in mind I've just started the build lol), only to find they were the only washers of that type in the kit!!!!!!! The outer shim that goes between the damper and main grip was also marked differently(8x12x1.0) from what was in the packets(8x11x1.0)
The next problem I had was one of the radial bearings in the blades grip was very notchy, once I had tightened everything up. Not good for a new kit really, but I've since read it's not uncommon for these to be duff. Luckily my Logo 500 bearings are the same size i.e 8x16x5, so no drama!!
I used both shims, as suggested in the manual and once I'd replaced the bearing it was like a rolex. The one thing I did do was to leave the mixing arms off until I was ready to fit the head to the mainshaft, no point loctiting twice!
Page 11 is where the fun bit started( big kid huh?). The frames went together with all the other bits seamlessly. The hole to component relationship is absolutely spot on. When fitting the torque tube bearing block, make sure you fit the "open side" of the bearing facing the tail, or the bearings can and probably will work their way out! It is possible to fit this block either way round. I didn't loctite the 4 screws that hold the TT block, as this will allow you to get the perfect gear mesh once everything is put together. Also make sure you fit the other bearing block with the "front" mark forwards AND facing down.
Next was fitting the motor and belt. Pretty straight forward, but I couldn't get the belt to run in the middle of both the pinion and 54T gear. I opted to get the belt running in the middle of the pinion( as it is flanged), which left the belt running pretty much flush with the bottom of the 54T gear. Moving the pinion gear up and down didn't help either, just made the belt run at the top or bottom of pinion gear.
Main gear and bevel gear went together as easily as the rest of the components. There are 2 shims supplied to go under the main gear, when fitted to the frame, to get the gear mesh spot on. I used both, which made the mesh perfect.
When fitting the skid legs, there are a front pair and rear pair. The rears having an open back to allow for the boom supports. Sorry about the picture, but I think you can see the difference.
The tail box and front bevel gear were a cinch ( there's a theme going here lol) and all the screws hold flange bearings in HAD been loctited, I did check
. That tail box is just silky smooth, with no play at all!!!
The tail control linkage plates were a bit fiddly to get together with my fat fingers, but entirely operator problem. Again, more excellent examples of engineering( possibly over engineering) here!
Next up was the torque tube bearings to fit and ends to epoxy on!! Be careful when you fit the bearings to the tube. The bearing has a plastic ring that slides over it and a rubber ring onto that. It is possible to fit these in different directions on the shaft, ending up with one of the said plastic carriers slipping off the bearing halfway(or less) into the boom. As the ends have by now been epoxied on, you can't turn them around. It is not mentioned in the manual, I just happened to notice the impending disaster. It also suggests no glue is needed to fix TT bearings to tube. You will end up with both bearings next to each other if you don't and definitely not 120mm from each end of the tube. Some posts I've read suggest fitting these bearings asymmetrically, I assume to prevent both ends resonating at the same frequency and causing a wobble?? Can't think of any other reason??
I epoxied the TT ends onto the tube and tapped the locating pin through. The pin was a really snug fit, but decided to put some heat shrink over the hole, to stop it working it's way out(read about someone's coming out, poss jamin??) at a gazillion RPM.
The boom mounts are held in with long threaded rods that go through the frame and are secured by flanges and lock nuts on either side of the frame. Just nip these nuts up for now, as you need them loose to get bevel gear mesh correct!!
I know Jamin and a few others have had to grind the ends of the TT drives off a little to get bevel gear mesh(linear) exact. Mine went together and length was perfect, so didn't need the dremel! The bevel gear and TT gear MUST(read that somewhere lol) line up perfectly on both inner and outer edges of the 2 gears(or entire length of TT gear).
It is about now that you need to loctite the 4 screws(2 pictured), as you need to turn the bevel gear, find the high spots and adjust the gear mesh, so that there is a tiny amount of play. Nice touch, putting slots in the frame to facilitate this procedure.
The rest of the tail components went together as easily as expected and that quality theme continued.
I fitted the head and swash drivers that I'd left off, but there is no stipulated way round for the ball link legs to go, no "A" side, as it were. I removed one of the legs to see if it was easier to pop the link on the ball, but it was bloody hard either way round, so don't waste your time like I did, just prepare for "that" feeling in your thumb haha!
All in all, as you may have already guessed, I'm seriously impressed with the design and quality of this kit. It's right up there with the E5 I just sold and my Logo.
Trying to decide whether to fit my spare kontronik jive 100+LV, or go with my tried and tested YEP 150A, with Quasar and hobby wing phase sensor. I had a lot of "low voltage on 3.3v rail" errors(and resulting crashes) on Vbar, using the konny on my Logo, but not sure how reliable it will be using the gryphon with it?? Does the konny work as well if not using it's internal BEC? Can't see why not, but similarly, can't find many posts where people are using an external BEC with it?? Worked fine using an SBUG, but that needs charging and stuff
. Never used a buffer pack before, just another thing to keep an eye on lol.
Any suggestions welcome.
I'll update post as soon as I've finished and ready to maiden, in a big field on my own.
I know this has been covered, but Jamin's pics appear to have gone? and I thought I'd amalgamate my experience with other build threads and videos!!
I was quite surprised to find there was no manual, or grease, loctite etc, but maybe I've been spoilt with the Gaui kits I've built. I downloaded the manual from the Agile site, and printed it off.
All the hardware comes in closeable bags, clearly labelled with size and quantity. I looked at the parts needed for each page, took ONLY that amount from the bag. At least I knew I'd used all I was supposed to use, in case I ended up with "spares".
The main components were all in foam packaging, very well protected.
First impressions are very good. Quality gear and really well engineered.
I started with the frames, unlike most that seem to have started with the tail. I always add my servos at the end of the build, but decided to do things by the book for a change, it does make you think you're closer to finishing lol.
Although the manual shows that bearings need loctiting before assembly, they're all fitted and glued in (I didn't want to knock them too hard). Page 6 is just basic frame components, so no headaches yet.
Page 7 shows motor fitting and calls for loctite on the pinion gear grub screws. I didn't bother until it was belt fitting time. Motor plate has holes for 25 & 30mm pitch, which is a bonus! The main shaft plates were a breeze to assemble, as all bearings were fitted. I tried assembling the plates without using the mainshaft to line things up and they were absolutely spot on.The mainshaft dropped straight through the lot. Testament indeed to the quality of engineering.
Page 10 was my first stumbling block (of sorts). All the bearings were again pre fitted in the main blade grips. I slid the thrust bearings out and they were very well packed with grease. The problem was the sizes given for washers that go on the ends of the feathering shaft. They are marked as 5x13x1.2 in the manual, but marked and measured as 5x12x1.8 in the packets provided. Now I know it's not a major issue,but it did take a while to sift through all the remaining packets( bear in mind I've just started the build lol), only to find they were the only washers of that type in the kit!!!!!!! The outer shim that goes between the damper and main grip was also marked differently(8x12x1.0) from what was in the packets(8x11x1.0)
The next problem I had was one of the radial bearings in the blades grip was very notchy, once I had tightened everything up. Not good for a new kit really, but I've since read it's not uncommon for these to be duff. Luckily my Logo 500 bearings are the same size i.e 8x16x5, so no drama!!
I used both shims, as suggested in the manual and once I'd replaced the bearing it was like a rolex. The one thing I did do was to leave the mixing arms off until I was ready to fit the head to the mainshaft, no point loctiting twice!
Page 11 is where the fun bit started( big kid huh?). The frames went together with all the other bits seamlessly. The hole to component relationship is absolutely spot on. When fitting the torque tube bearing block, make sure you fit the "open side" of the bearing facing the tail, or the bearings can and probably will work their way out! It is possible to fit this block either way round. I didn't loctite the 4 screws that hold the TT block, as this will allow you to get the perfect gear mesh once everything is put together. Also make sure you fit the other bearing block with the "front" mark forwards AND facing down.
Next was fitting the motor and belt. Pretty straight forward, but I couldn't get the belt to run in the middle of both the pinion and 54T gear. I opted to get the belt running in the middle of the pinion( as it is flanged), which left the belt running pretty much flush with the bottom of the 54T gear. Moving the pinion gear up and down didn't help either, just made the belt run at the top or bottom of pinion gear.
Main gear and bevel gear went together as easily as the rest of the components. There are 2 shims supplied to go under the main gear, when fitted to the frame, to get the gear mesh spot on. I used both, which made the mesh perfect.
When fitting the skid legs, there are a front pair and rear pair. The rears having an open back to allow for the boom supports. Sorry about the picture, but I think you can see the difference.
The tail box and front bevel gear were a cinch ( there's a theme going here lol) and all the screws hold flange bearings in HAD been loctited, I did check
. That tail box is just silky smooth, with no play at all!!!The tail control linkage plates were a bit fiddly to get together with my fat fingers, but entirely operator problem. Again, more excellent examples of engineering( possibly over engineering) here!
Next up was the torque tube bearings to fit and ends to epoxy on!! Be careful when you fit the bearings to the tube. The bearing has a plastic ring that slides over it and a rubber ring onto that. It is possible to fit these in different directions on the shaft, ending up with one of the said plastic carriers slipping off the bearing halfway(or less) into the boom. As the ends have by now been epoxied on, you can't turn them around. It is not mentioned in the manual, I just happened to notice the impending disaster. It also suggests no glue is needed to fix TT bearings to tube. You will end up with both bearings next to each other if you don't and definitely not 120mm from each end of the tube. Some posts I've read suggest fitting these bearings asymmetrically, I assume to prevent both ends resonating at the same frequency and causing a wobble?? Can't think of any other reason??
I epoxied the TT ends onto the tube and tapped the locating pin through. The pin was a really snug fit, but decided to put some heat shrink over the hole, to stop it working it's way out(read about someone's coming out, poss jamin??) at a gazillion RPM.
The boom mounts are held in with long threaded rods that go through the frame and are secured by flanges and lock nuts on either side of the frame. Just nip these nuts up for now, as you need them loose to get bevel gear mesh correct!!
I know Jamin and a few others have had to grind the ends of the TT drives off a little to get bevel gear mesh(linear) exact. Mine went together and length was perfect, so didn't need the dremel! The bevel gear and TT gear MUST(read that somewhere lol) line up perfectly on both inner and outer edges of the 2 gears(or entire length of TT gear).
It is about now that you need to loctite the 4 screws(2 pictured), as you need to turn the bevel gear, find the high spots and adjust the gear mesh, so that there is a tiny amount of play. Nice touch, putting slots in the frame to facilitate this procedure.
The rest of the tail components went together as easily as expected and that quality theme continued
.I fitted the head and swash drivers that I'd left off, but there is no stipulated way round for the ball link legs to go, no "A" side, as it were. I removed one of the legs to see if it was easier to pop the link on the ball, but it was bloody hard either way round, so don't waste your time like I did, just prepare for "that" feeling in your thumb haha!
All in all, as you may have already guessed, I'm seriously impressed with the design and quality of this kit. It's right up there with the E5 I just sold and my Logo.
Trying to decide whether to fit my spare kontronik jive 100+LV, or go with my tried and tested YEP 150A, with Quasar and hobby wing phase sensor. I had a lot of "low voltage on 3.3v rail" errors(and resulting crashes) on Vbar, using the konny on my Logo, but not sure how reliable it will be using the gryphon with it?? Does the konny work as well if not using it's internal BEC? Can't see why not, but similarly, can't find many posts where people are using an external BEC with it?? Worked fine using an SBUG, but that needs charging and stuff
. Never used a buffer pack before, just another thing to keep an eye on lol.Any suggestions welcome.
I'll update post as soon as I've finished and ready to maiden, in a big field on my own
.
+ 7 x Eddies finest EGS's
), again from Heliharry mark and it is amazing to fly.
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