Agile 7.2 build thread.

[Jamin_00]

Been looking at since I see the pics everywhere before they were released. Then seeing lots of pics from guys around the world with theirs on the Kontronik facebook page and talking with them, Roberto Gaziano the designer and Eric Guo the owner off KDS in China. Wicharid (Team KDS) put Eric in contact with me who kindly sent this kit to me to build and fly with the KDS servo's and the V2 Ebar which apparently is better than the first version but I'll hold judgement on that till it flys.

So its time for another build thread as we not had one for a while and this looks quality imo off course lol.

I was gonna do it in the section that cant have replies but this way I can post comments and others can comment too. Im so excited by this one


1 thing I will say is how the hell do people half way across the planet know about my Tree DR. All I hear is "Ah, so your Mr Tree DR" pmsl Love it lol


Let the build commence.






Box open. Reveals the first layer which holds all the CF components.





Next is some boxes





So I emptied some of the boxes all over the table. Not the usual 'bag 1' etc. Every bag is labeled what is inside and every single bag has got a QC sticker on so I hope no missing parts





So, the actual building commences and the first part is the battery tray with the frame spacers that mount on to it. These have little shoulders on one side and first off all get 5 x cup point set screw M3x12 and screw these in to 5 of the frame spacers leaving 6mm exposed. Wait a few minutes for the locktite to set then put them in the holes on the battery tray and get the other frame spacers and mount the other side. These have holes in so you can insert a tool to do them up. I could not get the shouldered part to sit in the holes by hand until I started to do them up then they seated perfectly.
See the next 4 pics.











Now on to the right hand side frame. First job with this is to insert the tail servo. Very straight forward. 4 M3x16 screws into the usual ali frame washers. Frame spacers then into some nice red anodised servo clamps

Underneath where the servo sits is a little cut out just big enough for the servo plug and wire to fit back through so the wire is inside the frames, nice touch

[Jamin_00]

Left hand frame has the first cyclic servo installed. I have to say I like these. I think thats a ali case








First piece of proper metal Very nice and Rob B, your correct. They are quality bearing's from Japan, NSK they are and silky smoooooth they be.



ESC tray, not much to say really.







FBL unit tray, again not much to say







Next is the motor mount. I like this as the sliding part looks like its separate and is 2 ali parts that slide back and forth in the main motor mount.







Now to attach these few parts to the right hand frame side. Very simple doing this.




The first part of the motor pulley system. This is very chunky and is about the size of the big belf upgrade on the 770 using the same make belt from Germany so this is easily gonna be up to the job I did have to get some emery cloth and rub the shaft where the hole is for the M4 bolt. Literally only 5 secs was enough and it slid on perfect.








Couple of frame spacers in and the landing gear supports. 3 bits of CF go in now. The bottom plate and the front and rear parts that just slot in. Then the other frame half goes on. Simply place on its side and line everything up moving the 3 loose bits so they now slot into both side frames and do up all the screws. Frames together

[Jamin_00]

The head. I always get excited by the head part of a build as it finally starting to look like a heli.

The bearings are already inserted in the grips but I pulled them out to check the amount of grease in the thrust bearings and there was plenty so put them back in and carried on.







Now its the bearing block top bit and where the servo's mount. 3 very long screws go through the top part down through the spacers into the bottom block. The anti rotation guide is plastic, I think this would have been nicer in a red anodised metal bracket really. The servos also mount now and they look awesome in there. I kinda like the idea of mounting them now during the frame build as the servo's for some reason are the part I hate the most but now all the servo's are in













This completed assembly simply now drops into place in to the frames. Then the motor assembly drops in after this. Its very similar to the Goblin here, 2 screws go in from the top and down and 2 screws go in through the side frames. Its harder to get the belt tight on the Agile as believe it or not the 2 tiny springs on the Goblin really do actually make a difference But man is this starting to look good now









Main gear. Looks solid. This is not gonna strip anytime soon and the same for the bevel gear. The OWB is very Kasama like even down to the keyway lock.







Then the mainshaft and its components. The shaft has 2 flats o it and this is for the 2 main shaft stoppers grub screws. At the very bottom of the main shaft section under the gears it has what is called a mains haft washer which is bevelled and a thin washer that goes underneath that on top of the bottom bearing block. This is a little fiddly to get all lined up but it helps that the mainshaft bottom few cm's is thinner than the rest so that just helps with slotting everything in as you push it down.

[Jamin_00]

Starting the tail section. I have been particularly looking forward to this part as it looks awesome in the pics I have seen.

This first part is the front TT drive gear, very straight forward. Insert the shaft through the bearing and push the gear tight to take out any slop and simply do up the 2 grub screws.







I forgot to take a pic of this section in bits only got it completed.

So slot this shaft through the hub and push the metal bevel gear tight against the hub and do the 2 grub screws up on this one. The plastic gear is already on the shaft with a 'special threaded rod' through the gear and shaft. Undo this so you can put the plastic gear in place and slide the shaft through the side bearing overwoise you wont get it into place still on the shaft. Remembering to put the locking collar on the shaft too Then push the shaft so the plastic gear is up against the bearing and then use the collar to take out any slop. Check that the gear mesh is good and no free play and all is good here.




To finish the tail section off here its assembling the slider and putting the the tail blade grips on. The H part there is not symmetrical. Its slightly longer distance from centre one side than the other. The shorter side is what goes on the block. They use the shouldered bearings, inserting from the inside out. Place the 2 tiny brass washers in here to. Then take the other H part with the bit sticking out of the bottom and this connects to the part just attached to the block again with 2 of the shouldered bearings but no washers this time. Slide the pitch slider on the shaft. It has 2 holes in, top and bottom. Put the last 2 of these bearings in the last holes on the pitch slider assembly and then use 2 screws to go in to the pitch slider. Put the grips on and the grub screw in the centre hub, push the pitch links on and attach the CF plate which is the control part and all done.




The white stuff on the gears is the Dry Fluids gear solution.

[Jamin_00]

Next is the torque tube but because this part require epoxy I decided to do all the parts that need epoxy at the same time for ease.

So to start with the TT you take the 3 bearings and put these on FIRST unlike me and having to rush out to the garage to knock the pin out before the epoxy set but thats another story
Then take 1 of the TT ends and after given a rough sanding to all the parts that the epoxy goes on smear a little on 1 end of the TT and slot the end on lining up the holes so the pin can be knocked in. This is quite tight so I held it with a pair of pliers while gently taping the pin to get it in. Then repeat this the other end. Now place the bearing according to the manual and I use super strong CA to hold them in place. Once dried then slide this in the boom. I found this TT with the bearings a tighter fit than most so I used grease AND, ready for it, clothes conditioner to help them slide in. That made it much easier by putting this on the inside of the boom so it stayed with the bearing rubbers as they slide down. It was needed as grease alone was not. A good silicone spray is what I normally use but found this easier after searching for something to use.

Then I took the tail control rod, smear a little epoxy on the end and push these 2 bits on. Job done.

The the boom supports. Again smeared a little epoxy on the ends and slid them in. Then the little red bits that slide over them and screw the threaded rod through the rod. Job done and none of these bits should be moving.







The boom itself is real CF none of this ali boom wrapped in CF wrap like the Aligns for example. Some will like that and others wont but me, I love the look and the feel of it. Its a chunky bugger too like the Triabolo boom and so are the supports. Gives it a good look.





Now to put all the bits on the boom. Main thing to note here is the boom has a small slot in it and this is to go in the frames so look for this when on this step. I started with the tail case, just slide this in put the 2 main screws that hold this in. Then I took all the other bits and slide these on and left them all loose except the front boom support that has 2 screws that hold the front TT gear in place.







Then take the 4 shouldered washers and slide these in the frame where the 2 front boom supports are. Take the 4 threaded rods and slide these though. I then put the nuts in place and the rear canopy mounts and left them loose but just tight enough to stop the shouldered washers coming out of place. Now you see why the front TT gear has a little bit of shaft sticking out as this slots into a support by the bevel gear which I just seen I not got any pics of so I will update that with a little pic tomorrow. This is moveable up and dow to allow you to get the correct mesh and this is why you leave the boom support bits all loose for now so you can move it slightly. I just meshed it like any other gear (the tinest bit of free play on the high spot) and will see how this sounds in flight as you can tell as its normally quite a distinct noise on the bevel gears I have found.





Next I put the boom supports on in to the frame so I could see where the bit they screw in to the boom clamp as there is a little bit of heatshrink about 15mm wide that you put on where this sits. I expect this is soo it protects the CF boom more so than not having it. Nipped it all tight and then put the tail control rod on and tightened these up and connected them to the servo and the tail.




All I got to do now is the leccy set up


A few with the cano on. Didnt do anything more today

[KevDavies]

Another bloody heli??? I wish I had your wage packet mate!! I love building new models! I just cant afford to! LOL.

Awaiting with intrepidation (not sure if thats the right adjective)

[vinny155]

You jammy ******haha,looks like a nice bit of kit,look forward to the thread

[Dave Rand]

Superb mate, looking forward to seeing it come together

[smokingtommy]

this heli is by far ahead of most on the market ,some may say its a goblin/avant mix and so what if it is after looking at this heli my self the design is fantastic and will take 14s easy also it has low parts and you can have the tail on the left or right which is cool. its going to be quite some time before i have the means to get one so looking forward to this build

[electricsceadu]

is it built and flying yet?????????????????????????????

[Guest]

Looks really similar to the X7 even down to the packaging. Should be good like most modern E's :-)

MJ

[yuppyflyer]

don't keep us waiting, open the box and take some more pics

[debrooker]

go on how much? £20?

[Jamin_00]

First few pics up.

It does not come with an instruction manual, saying that I did not look properly for it as I always download them to my comp and go through it that way. I prefer it but I guess some like to have a paper manual. A lot of the screw bags are oily so you need some sort of alcohol to clean the screws.

[debrooker]

how thick is the carbon on the frames Ben?