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  • what is the ultimate tail blade?

    Hi guys

    I'm one of those people with a dodgy tail on an mcpx bl, and after reading a lot of the threads on here, where people have had success with different things to solve the problem, I was wondering, is the a consistent tail blade you are all using?

    Thought I'd start with that.
    Crazy L, The Original since 1976

    Sponsored by: my own wallet

  • #2
    I don't have a BL anymore, but when I did, I used the Lynx tail blades ...
    Tom
    sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
    SAB Goblin 630 Competition
    - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
    Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
    Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
    .... and a Gaui X3
    Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
    ... and two EGS'



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    • #3
      What do you mean by dodgy ?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by heliboy View Post
        What do you mean by dodgy ?
        Tail wag, it turns out it is an inherant problem on the BL, and lots of folks point to, amongst other things, the tail blades.

        @Tomatwalden, I've read somewhere the Lynx ones are brittle. Is that just luck of the draw and scaremongering? We all know what forums can be like.
        Crazy L, The Original since 1976

        Sponsored by: my own wallet

        Comment


        • #5
          TBH, tail wag is fairly inherent on ANY micro helicopter with a fixed-pitch tail driven by a motor. It's physics really, a motor cannot change speeds quick enough to respond instantly to change in heading. This is why larger helis use a variable pitch tail and very fast servos on the tail. It means that the change in thrust provided by the tail rotor is almost instant.

          I found the Lynx blades to be better - and they came in different colours for visibility and bling. I never found them to be any worse in a crash than stock blades TBH. They're so cheap anyway I wouldn't worry about it! If they do break, it will be because of a crash, not the reason for the crash!

          But if you want a locked-solid tail, you need to look towards larger helis with variable pitch tails ...
          Tom
          sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
          SAB Goblin 630 Competition
          - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
          Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
          Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
          .... and a Gaui X3
          Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
          ... and two EGS'



          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by tomatwalden
            If you want a locked-solid tail, you need to look towards larger helis with variable pitch tails ...
            Cheers. The mcpx is my latest addition and micros are a new thing for me as I already have a 450 and a 500. I thought the tail would be a litttle more stable that's all. Maybe in the future I'll plumb for a something with a driven tail.
            Last edited by Crazy L; 22-04-2015, 05:59 PM.
            Crazy L, The Original since 1976

            Sponsored by: my own wallet

            Comment


            • #7
              The trex 250 tail is very sensitive too. Never got it totally locked in
              Spektrum IX12
              Blade Inductrix
              T-Rex 150X
              T-Rex 450L, Heli Option Turn-buckles, carbon push rod, 6s, Stock Electrics, Giant Power Lipos
              Goblin 380 Kyle Stacy, 360mm, 6s, AR7210BX, Align 430m/525m @ 6.0v, Castle Talon 90, Scorpion 3020-1000, Optipower 2700 30c
              Goblin 570 Carbon Red, Stretched to 600mm, Blackline 3D Blades, 12s, BD 3SX, Align 800/850 HV servos @ 8.0v Castle 120 Phoenix Edge HV, Scorpion, Thunderpower G8s
              T-Rex 800e Pro DFC, Hobbywing 200A, 760x Head, BeastX

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Crazy L View Post
                Tail wag, it turns out it is an inherant problem on the BL, and lots of folks point to, amongst other things, the tail blades.

                @Tomatwalden, I've read somewhere the Lynx ones are brittle. Is that just luck of the draw and scaremongering? We all know what forums can be like.
                Ah ok i see what you pointing to now.
                I found running a flat line id1 at 80 sorted it out a little..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Crazy L View Post
                  Cheers. The mcpx is my latest addition and micros are a new thing for me as I already have a 450 and a 500. I thought the tail would be a litttle more stable that's all. Maybe in the future I'll plumb for a something with a driven tail.
                  To a certain extent, you've got to take micros for what they are. They are not big helis, nor do they fly like them for the most part. BUT, They can be HUGE amounts of fun - with very cheap consequences when you get it wrong!

                  I am going to big up the 180CFX - In my view, it is simply the best micro out there by a long chalk. The Oxy3 is looking quite nice too, but it's a kit and substantially more expensive. I like my 300CFX also, but I'll be honest and say that the stock electronics (ESC, motor and servos) are fairly lame.

                  Personally, I really didn't get on with the Trex250 either. I found it to be a real twitchy bugger and DFC on micros is fiddly beyond belief.

                  Go for a 180 (which is a torque tube tail BTW)
                  Tom
                  sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
                  SAB Goblin 630 Competition
                  - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
                  Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
                  Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
                  .... and a Gaui X3
                  Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
                  ... and two EGS'



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    On the mCPX BL the main tweaks are to improve tail holding in harder moves, as mentioned above you can't ever reliably get all the wag out, it's designed as a high performance 3D flier, not a smooth graceful flier. One of the compromises they had to make to have the tail powerful enough for the 3D moves was to have it a little too aggressive for them to tune all the wag out with the gyro gain.

                    The best tail on the BL is generally to fit an extended solid carbon tail boom (Lynx have one, plus the wire you need), and then the Lynx 42mm tail blades.

                    Failing that, to really get rid of the wag you can do a full outrunner upgrade, and flash the tail ESC with the BLheli code, but that's not a cheap or easy upgrade at all.

                    Originally posted by james_2k View Post
                    The trex 250 tail is very sensitive too. Never got it totally locked in
                    The 250 has a few options. Fundamentally you just need a very fast tail servo, a DS95i does the job with brute force, but it's a bit heavy. A great alternative is a DS76t, plus a set of chinese weights and the stock 37mm plastic tail blades. I'm running the DS76t on mine, it's lightweight, very fast, and with the VX1e controller the tail is just solid.
                    Helis: Oxy 2 FE / Oxy 2 Sport / Protos 380 / Oxy 4 Max / Gaui X3 380mm
                    Electronics:
                    Spartan VX1e / Spartan VX1n / Spartan VX1p / MSH Brain2 mini / Jeti DS-14
                    Sims: Realflight / AccuRC
                    / Phoenix RC (Wireless) | AccuRC (Wireless) | Realflight (Wireless)

                    Team rep for Lynx/Oxy, Founder of NightWave Systems, #450guy

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by heliboy View Post
                      I found running a flat line id1 at 80 sorted it out a little..
                      Ok cheers, May I ask what an id1 is? Cos, to quote Temperance Brennan: "I don't know what that means".

                      @Myxiplx, I have an extended solid boom already, made for own for about £2. Extended by 15mm. With a Lynx tail blade, came yesterday, although mine is bigger than the OE Item. Maybe I ordered a larger one, as I didn't measure to see how big they were. I'm assuming since you mention the length in mm, there are other sizes available?
                      Crazy L, The Original since 1976

                      Sponsored by: my own wallet

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        People used to go for 48mm blades if my memory serves, but they tend to overheat and blow the stock tail motors. The standard Lynx blades for the mCPX BL will be 42mm, they're a little stiffer than stock which unfortunately makes them more fragile, but they were generally regarded as the best overall.

                        The flat line throttle comment above just means run a single throttle range for the whole flight. 100% flat out throttle is great for 3D, a slower throttle fixed to something like 80% will tame things down, and will also make life a little easier for the tail.

                        What is your problem with the tail, is it wag during hovers, or problems holding during 3D moves?
                        Helis: Oxy 2 FE / Oxy 2 Sport / Protos 380 / Oxy 4 Max / Gaui X3 380mm
                        Electronics:
                        Spartan VX1e / Spartan VX1n / Spartan VX1p / MSH Brain2 mini / Jeti DS-14
                        Sims: Realflight / AccuRC
                        / Phoenix RC (Wireless) | AccuRC (Wireless) | Realflight (Wireless)

                        Team rep for Lynx/Oxy, Founder of NightWave Systems, #450guy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Crazy L View Post
                          Ok cheers, May I ask what an id1 is? Cos, to quote Temperance Brennan: "I don't know what that means".

                          @Myxiplx, I have an extended solid boom already, made for own for about £2. Extended by 15mm. With a Lynx tail blade, came yesterday, although mine is bigger than the OE Item. Maybe I ordered a larger one, as I didn't measure to see how big they were. I'm assuming since you mention the length in mm, there are other sizes available?
                          Idle up 1.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by myxiplx View Post
                            What is your problem with the tail, is it wag during hovers, or problems holding during 3D moves?
                            It wags terribly during simple left and right and a little while hovering. 3D? not a chance, I've only just mastered a figure of 8 with my 500, and that's only in one direction, lol.

                            Originally posted by myxiplx View Post
                            Idle up 1.
                            Yeah, I don't think I'll be needing that for a while.
                            Crazy L, The Original since 1976

                            Sponsored by: my own wallet

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I can't even do sustained inverted yet and I only use idle up modes. I far prefer them
                              Spektrum IX12
                              Blade Inductrix
                              T-Rex 150X
                              T-Rex 450L, Heli Option Turn-buckles, carbon push rod, 6s, Stock Electrics, Giant Power Lipos
                              Goblin 380 Kyle Stacy, 360mm, 6s, AR7210BX, Align 430m/525m @ 6.0v, Castle Talon 90, Scorpion 3020-1000, Optipower 2700 30c
                              Goblin 570 Carbon Red, Stretched to 600mm, Blackline 3D Blades, 12s, BD 3SX, Align 800/850 HV servos @ 8.0v Castle 120 Phoenix Edge HV, Scorpion, Thunderpower G8s
                              T-Rex 800e Pro DFC, Hobbywing 200A, 760x Head, BeastX

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