Disappointed with CX3

[ThinKat]

cx2 battery tray requires the cx2 skids also,they are a differant style then the cx3..and if you are running the stock cx3 body you might have to trim the body a bit for them to fit.

I'm binning the CX3 body and skids (what's left of them). The boomtownhobbies skids are designed for a CX2 battery tray, so I'll probably need to buy that also, but I'm not sure if need to buy the CX2 battery tray if I get the after-market aluminium version. (The CX2/3 battery trays are both very fragile so I would prefer to avoid them if possible.)

[mtlblade]

the cx2 skids just push into holes in the cx2 battery tray they dont actually bolt onto them like the cx3.

[martynv]

I don't think I'll change the blades because I haven't broken the originals yet and maybe it's better breaking a blade than breaking the motor.

I think I'll also need a CX2 battery tray but I haven't ordered that yet - I guess I'll get the aluminium one, but I'll wait till I get the other parts and see what else I need, which isn't very clear at the moment. I still think it's ridiculous that the standard parts are quite so feeble.

The CX2 battery tray is plenty strong enough with the Xtreme landing skids, as I said I've only broken one side board so far and that did no damage to the battery tray. I wouldn't worry about damaging a motor, they'll just spin round as it hits the ground. The only other thing I've broken is a few teeth of the outer shaft gear. If you're flying indoors the stock blades are probably fine, but if you're going outside I would recommend the Xtreme ones as the standard ones are bound to chip. The extended upper rotor also prevents the blades hiting each other when flying outside in a light breeze.

Be careful with adding to many aluminium parts as this will add to the weight and put more strain on the motors which already get quite hot, thats why I switched to the SE180 motors which run cooler and produce more power and for only £10 each, I think a worth while investment.

There's some really useful info here BTW

E-flite’s Blade CX3 Tips, Settings, & Help.

[ThinKat]

Note: You will need a CX2 battery tray and body pin set to fit the Xtreme body stuff

I can't find the CX2 body pin set anywhere. Any ideas where I can get it?

[martynv]

I can't find the CX2 body pin set anywhere. Any ideas where I can get it?

Yep, The part number you need is EFLH1226 I got mine from Apex Models

Welcome to Apex Models, Europe's Leading R/C Model Car Specialist

Or FastLad have some here

Fast Lad Performance

Battery tray is part No: EFLH1223 just in case you need one. Both Apex and FastLad have these too. If you're not upgrading your motors get a EFLH1208 heatsink as well while your at it to stop the motors getting fried !

[tiddler]

I can't find the CX2 body pin set anywhere. Any ideas where I can get it?

I just went to my lhs and bought some steel wire then cut it to the appropriate length and filed the ends smooth. Job done

[ThinKat]

I've taken the CX3 apart so that I can fit the new body parts - Xtreme canopy, and Boom Town skids and boom. (BTW - not very impressed with the Xtreme canopy. It's possibly even more flimsy than the original body. I'll need to strengthen it around the fixing points or it'll just break).

I noticed that the main shaft can move up and down about 3 mm. When it drops down it means that the gears to the top blades are not driven and this must be why it sometimes spins uncontrollably and crashes. Does anyone know any way of correcting this or is it just broken? Thanks.

[martynv]

I noticed that the main shaft can move up and down about 3 mm. When it drops down it means that the gears to the top blades are not driven and this must be why it sometimes spins uncontrollably and crashes. Does anyone know any way of correcting this or is it just broken? Thanks.

Make sure the inner shaft is either flush or slightly proud of the drive gear looking underneath the heli. If not losen the two cross head screws and push it down further to take up the slack. If it's already flush then check it hasn't pulled out of the upper rotor head by undoing the allen grub screw and pushing the head down on to the shaft. If these to steps fail check the spacer washer is present on top of the outer shaft main gear with the raised part pointing upward toward the bearing.

The canopy is much stronger than it looks, I think it's made of lexan the same as RC car bodies so is very strong. So far I've only broken mine behind one of the rear mounts which I just fixed with tape. If you're really worried just put some reinforcing tape over the rear mounting holes.

[tiddler]

I've taken the CX3 apart so that I can fit the new body parts - Xtreme canopy, and Boom Town skids and boom. (BTW - not very impressed with the Xtreme canopy. It's possibly even more flimsy than the original body. I'll need to strengthen it around the fixing points or it'll just break).

I noticed that the main shaft can move up and down about 3 mm. When it drops down it means that the gears to the top blades are not driven and this must be why it sometimes spins uncontrollably and crashes. Does anyone know any way of correcting this or is it just broken? Thanks.

Take a look at my earlier post #6 on this thread.

[ThinKat]

Thanks for the advice Martyn. I've checked the points you mention but they all look OK. Most of the time it's OK as the rotors are pulling it into the correct position so I guess I'll just have to accept it - somethings probably been damaged.

The worst thing about the Xtreme canopy is the rear mount - the holes you have to make are too near the edges and it's bound to break. It's also a bit cheap they don't drill the holes for you and mount the grommets like in the CX2. Like Graham says the CX2 body, battery holder and skids are much better designed/made than those of the CX3. Looks like they've tried to save a bit of money on the CX3. The skids I got from Boom Town Hobbies seem very good. They do feel like they're unbreakable - they just bend and spring back.

[martynv]

I not sure whats left to try unless one of the bearings or upper bearing holder is damaged giving rise to the excess play in the shaft. All I can sugest is to either:

1) Cut down the inner shaft where it goes in to the upper rotor head, remembering to file a new flat on the shaft to prevent the grub screw sliping.

2) Put some small washers between the outer shaft bearing holder and the underside of the upper rotor head to take up the slack.

I'm sure my canopy came with the holes in it already, but as you say they are fairly close to the back !. I didn't fit the grommets on mine I just pushed them on the ends of the pin so I can slip it in an out easily. Be interesting to see how you get on with your new skids, could be a good option. Personaly I reckon the weak bits in the CX3 setup are caused by the desire to create a scale like appearance with light weight, unfortunately only really suitable for experienced pilots who only fly indoors and always land gently .

[GPTips]

I would also like to join the rant in the sense that I have flown the CX3 about 3 times, replaced a few of the parts and now it's on Ebay.

I am on phoenix again and waiting for my training fixtures for the Blade 400. I have never flown anything but Chinese made Coaxials before and the place I bought the Blade 400 from he advised to buy the CX3.

I can control a heli quite well its just the landings and hovering I am practising.

I agree with the guys that have said this heli is fragile.

[cjcj1949]

That's an old thread. Am msr is a good survivable heli. The Blade 400 is a big step from a coaxial. You'll find the real thing quite different from Phoenix at first. There is a post by Boggy in the Blade 400 section about taming it. Very good advice.

Chris