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Bits seems to be missing on Blade 130 after fixing main gearing

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  • Bits seems to be missing on Blade 130 after fixing main gearing

    The book for the Heli shows two bearings number 4 one above the main gearing
    and one below, it never mentioned them in the Video and i never seen them. there named as
    4x7x2 bearings blh3704. He never mention them in the video, mabye there built in, just want
    to be sure, thanks for reading this.

    While im here can anyone tell me what blades i should use
    when i start using the Blade 130 the ones on now have the bullit shapes on them, and any settings
    for the DX* would be great, the ones on the Manual have locked all the trims on the Transmitter for some
    reason.


  • #2
    Hi Colin

    The two bearings are located between the frames in built in bearing blocks so you can't really see them much with out spliting the main frames, the picture is a bit mis leading on this!
    The settings in the manuel are normally pretty good, not sure why the trims don't work!

    Cheers
    Bob

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    • #3
      Good advice in manual about the trims,saves you accidentally putting trim in as you shouldn't use trim with 3 axis gyro's.Get them mechanically set up and let the gyro's do the rest
      T- rex 600n V-bar
      Logo 550sx V-bar
      Logo 600sx V-bar
      Logo 600sx V-bar night flyer

      VBControl, but not the gay white version as i'm simply not gay enough to pull it off!

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      • #4
        Use the "bullet blades" as they're more stable. As already mentioned, no subtrim should be required with AS3X flybarless unit.
        Tom
        sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
        SAB Goblin 630 Competition
        - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
        Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
        Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
        .... and a Gaui X3
        Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
        ... and two EGS'



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        • #5
          Re: Bits seems to be missing on Blade 130 after fixing main gearing

          Intresting point about subtrim guys as i watched a very interesting vid on u.tube last night showing a guy boohooing that fact , only as far as the 130x is concerned mind as he states it should never be used on v.bars beast x etc . The as3x on the 130x apparently works in a different way than the higher end stuff . Now unfortunately i only have my phone at the moment so couldnt see how much subtrim he used as the screens to small but was a good few beeps on a dx6i . The outcome was that he had his heli taking off from his bed and hovering pretty much hands off . Now i was pretty surprised to say the least as it goes against what pretty much everyone says . Just a thought though and i may give it a go . Rob
          Rob .


          Thunder Tiger X50 Nitro V.Bar . T.Rex 500 Fu.Bar . T.Rex 450 Fly Bar . Blade 130x . Pheonix . Realflight . Seb Art Pitts Python . Seb Art Katana 30 . E.Flite Ultimate 20-300
          . Spectrum DX6i & Futaba 8FG Super & SimStick for Futaba . SWRCH .

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          • #6
            In theory you shouldn't need any subtrim, it is worth checking the main board to make sure it is sat flat in the frames though
            T-REX 250 DFC: Hyperion HS2206-3900 / YEP18A / Mini K-Bar
            T-REX 550 DFC Pro:
            AR7200BX BeastX - Soon to be... Spirit FBL / CC Phoenix Edge 100 / CC Bec Pro / Optipower Ultraguard
            DX8: Turnigy 4000mah Lipo
            Pheonix v5.

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            • #7
              On a previous post my main board is playing up and when I power up put to mid throttle the swash would slowly tilt, can't return to hh as bought 2nd hand, anyway watched a video on YouTube and the guy showed a fix for this using sub trims, mine was left 7 ail and left 3 rudder.
              After doing this never had the problem again, and I can take off correct initial torque drift then can hands free the tx. Massive improvement.
              If your not flying .....then make sure you crash with style


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