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Is main gearing to close to a circuit board on Blade 130?

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  • Is main gearing to close to a circuit board on Blade 130?

    As you can see the gearing is shot, just got the 130 and like the Nano i spooled
    it up for a few seconds just to check it worked, mabye it was loose when it came
    i never checked, never had a model like this before the gears must be made of chocolate
    or they where badly fitted in the first place.


  • #2
    Is main gearing to close to a circuit board on Blade 130?

    The gear does sit very close to the board so nothing to worry about there.

    Ive never seen one stripped that bad just on spool up.......? There must be something seriously wrong there. This gear is a weakness of the heli in my opinion ive seen theses ware out within say 5 gentle flights, the sooner you upgrade to the metal gear the better.

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    • #3
      And im sure no one believes me about just spooling it up, esp HH there not much help, straitforward repair he says, sure is if you have all your fingers, which i dont, here is what HH said

      The nylon tail gear hole is ‘D’ shaped to locate and grip on the torque tube. This hole can round out if the heli takes a knock, the heli is designed to ‘fail’ here to save damaging other parts of the heli such as the torque tube, bevel gear etc. The kit comes with an additional set of nylon tail gears as spares for you should this happen, you can find these in the bag with the instruction manual.

      If you are having difficulty fitting these you may be able to ask your model shop to assist you, however this should be a fairly straightforward repair.

      Regards

      Glenn Doman
      Product Service Manager

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      • #4
        There are a couple of known issues with the "A" gear (ie. that umbrella gear on the main shaft).

        1. On some helis, it rubs against the FET on the back of the front servo. Eventually the servo will fail (mine did!)
        2. The "B" gear on the torque tube that meshes with the A gear is metal. If the A gear mesh is poor therefore, the A gear will wear down quickly.

        That said, that A gear looks like it's had about 50 flights at least to rub down that much. I honestly can't believe that from new, that's just had one spool up! The usual reason is that the main gear (ie. the big white plastic gear at the bottom) is pushed up too tight against the bottom, thereby *pulling* the A gear too hard onto the B gear. Whatever, it looks like you need to replace that A gear - preferably with the option metal bevel gear from HH.

        You also need to create clearance to the FET on the servo. Here's somebody's fix for the plastic A gear, and I've heard of people doing something similar with the metal ones (albeit with more than a bit of sandpaper!)

        Blade 130X - Sanding A gear - YouTube

        I think you're best bet though (assuming this is a new 130X) is to send it back to HH quoting these problems and get them to fix it under warranty.

        T
        Tom
        sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
        SAB Goblin 630 Competition
        - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
        Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
        Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
        .... and a Gaui X3
        Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
        ... and two EGS'



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        • #5
          Originally posted by colintainsh View Post
          And im sure no one believes me about just spooling it up, esp HH there not much help, straitforward repair he says, sure is if you have all your fingers, which i dont, here is what HH said

          The nylon tail gear hole is ‘D’ shaped to locate and grip on the torque tube. This hole can round out if the heli takes a knock, the heli is designed to ‘fail’ here to save damaging other parts of the heli such as the torque tube, bevel gear etc. The kit comes with an additional set of nylon tail gears as spares for you should this happen, you can find these in the bag with the instruction manual.

          If you are having difficulty fitting these you may be able to ask your model shop to assist you, however this should be a fairly straightforward repair.

          Regards

          Glenn Doman
          Product Service Manager
          He's misunderstood your query. The D gear does round out easily, and is a normal repair and the kit does come with spares. This is different - this is the A gear. And the FET issue is a known problem. Don't take no for an answer on this.
          Tom
          sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
          SAB Goblin 630 Competition
          - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
          Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
          Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
          .... and a Gaui X3
          Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
          ... and two EGS'



          Comment


          • #6
            You can clear some space between the elevator servo and A gear. If you look at the heli nose in, you can move the top right corner mount of the elevator servo a 1mm or 2mm back towards the motor then up 1mm or 2mm. The top right corner of the servo will rest on this little tab just outside of the servo slot. It’s only a small fraction you have to move the servo.

            Someone mentioned it on here and I noticed my second 130x which I borough last week already had this done.
            Paz

            Goblin Black Nitro
            Goblin 380
            Oxy 2
            Vcontrol

            Leicester Heli Flyers Club

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