130x tail servo

[Gavalar]

Finally got some time to fly today. One little prob the tail servo.
Works fine when I'm the ground but as soon as I take off it stops working and helium spins .
Has any one for any ideas or had the same happen. Only had 3 flights on it, thinking a board problem might be the cause?

[Zeeflyboy]

Disconnect your motor and apply throttle - this will engage the FBL system including the tail gyro.

You can then see directly what's happening with the tail servo. If it stops working the moment the FBL system engages then that suggests something is going wrong there.

From the description, sounds like a problem with the tail gyro not initializing or just plain being dead.

[Swashbuckler]

Check mechanical first - is the pusrod off, but catching enough to make it seem like its working? Check the torque tube isnt spinning in the gears under load.

[Gavalar]

Zee flyboy, tried that it seems very lazy then quick then stops in one position then resets its self. Me thinks the flybar system might need resetting, also I have to keep re-binding it.

[Zeeflyboy]

Resetting itself is normal after 4 seconds of zero throttle..

Basically with zero throttle you have a direct link to the servos - no gyros are involved... Hence why the swash doesn't try to stay level or the tail try to move against the motion when you move the heli around.

When you engage throttle, the system activates and is now under gyro control... You are just cheating the system by unplugging the motor so you can monitor what it's up to.

4 seconds after cutting throttle, the system switches off and you go back to direct servo control... The swash will level and the tail servo shoot back to centre.

Lazy behaviour as you call it is typical of a servo under gyro control... Just check that when you turn the heli, the servo is moving the tail in the correct direction to counter the movement - if it doesn't move or moves the wrong way you have something wrong with the control board.

If however it moves, and moves correctly the problem is likely mechanical - a slipping C gear is a likely culprit (easy to round out the D shape), as is a stripped A gear.

Easiest test for that is to (gently) try to rotate the head while holding the tail - if it's slipping enough to cause this it should be fairly apparent.

Failure to link up is fairly common it seems and not necessarily related. Sometimes I have to cycle power 3-4 times while moving the transmitter to get it to bind.

[Gavalar]

Thanks it seems to be a stripped gear. Hold the tail and move the head blades and I can see it turning the torque tube and no tail movement. I'll have a proper look later, thank you for your help
gav

[Zeeflyboy]

So most likely you need to just pop on a new C gear - only takes a few mins to do.

You can buy a little bag with 2 x C and 2 x D gears for not much money - they are good to have some spare stock of, it's a piece that you will probably need to replace relatively regularly after a few crashes.

[jamiem]

I had the same thing. After 10 or so decent crashes, the rear TT gear no longer had a decent flat on it to locate it on the TT. A 2 minute job to replace (and there was one in the spare parts bag with the machine), and all is well again

[sparts]

It will be the c gear.
Where is the flat spot on the tt? there is one on the pinion end but not on the other.

[Swashbuckler]

Shame they don't put spare blade grips in there. £10 for a pair, only available with bearings. Clearly designed to break. They are taking the p155. Even their own model the 300x blade grips are half that, so what gives other than a prime example of shafting the 100000s of customers buying the 130x?

Anyone got one of those 3d printer thingies?

[Zeeflyboy]

It will be the c gear.
Where is the flat spot on the tt? there is one on the pinion end but not on the other.

There is a flat spot on both ends. One is slightly longer than the other, the longer one goes towards the front and seats the b gear.

Swash - why don't they just include a whole spare heli...

Not disagreeing with you about spares cost, it is excessive in my opinion too.

My grips are going fine though, several crashes including tail first and hard enough to strip the A gear completely so can't agree with "designed to break". Even so, would you be upset if your tail grips broke on your 450/500/600 or whatever after a crash? Should they include spares too? I'm being a bit facetious, but the point stands - where do you stop... Should blade manufacturers include a spare pair of blades with each purchase in case you crash?

[Swashbuckler]

Trust me the little ball will snap off, and they could have made it stronger. No they shouldn't include spare grips, just sell them individually at a fair price without the bearings. Say £1 maybe £2. It's the only thing that has wiped any of the gleam off this awesome little thing.

Yes I'm flying indoors and its been in at least 10 times. I didn't expect not to break stuff, I'm really pleased with the durability, just not the plastic parts prices. At all. Pretty disgusted actually.

[Zeeflyboy]

Well I can definitely agree with that, but they have to pay for their private jets somehow!

[Swashbuckler]

And I would be upset if a blade grip broke on any heli if all the other parts attatched to the grip survived, yes. It points to a design flaw.

Still bloody love the 130x though.

[sparts]

My tt definitely has no flat spot at both ends.
Just one on the pinion end.
That's why my gear keeps on slipping even after Cyno'ing.I emailed HH but no reply,poor customer service really.