Dismantle pre-built parts or leave as is?

[Motomikey]

Hi Troops,

Took delivery of my E4 yesterday. Fantastic! Initial impressions are that this certainly looks like a top quality bit of kit... it's just a real shame I'm going to crash it one day

Anyway, before I start the build I just wondered what people's thoughts were on the parts that are already pre-assembled (not that there's many). Should I leave them as they are, or should I be dismantling them and putting more locktite in the required places?

Many thanks,
Mike

ps. Many thanks to Evo Andy for your "impromptu" advice (I went for the Spartan 760 btw)

[J-S-Q]

I have no experience with Beam stuff specifically but personally I would always disassemble it and check for Loctite -better safe than sorry eh?

[J-S-Q]

Just thinking about it, I've built 4 Align helis and one SJM and none of them had Loctite in 100% of the required places.

[jiberjaber]

Mike - there isnt that much pre-assembled other than the tail abd head iirc. Worth opening the head and greasing the thrust bearings, the feathering spindle uses 2xM3 nylocks so you will need two 5.5 nut spinners thin enough to get in there. The Esky ones on Fast Lads work fine and only a few quid each.

Cant remember the order code at the moment.

[mattydred]

hi, i would take it apart and check it aswell for locktite and greese. it will also give you some experience with the machine and when you do crash it and its all broken into bits you will know how things should be from working on it before it was broken and rebuilds repairs should be alot easier as you will already be familiar with it.

cheers

matty

[Mart61]

My new T-rex 500 came with some pre-assembled parts. I found that some had been loctited and some hadn't.

As such I'd pull it apart...

[Motomikey]

Thanks guys. I don't want to take any chances, so I'll strip down and reassemble with new locktite. And like someone said, it's a good way to get to know every part of the heli.

the feathering spindle uses 2xM3 nylocks so you will need two 5.5 nut spinners

lol... I knew there must've been a good reason for the manual saying you needed two of these. Being a silly fud, I only bought one

[mattydred]

if you got a tamiya spanner thingy that might do the trick.

[Sao]

if you got a tamiya spanner thingy that might do the trick.

Everyone should have at least one Tamiya box wrench
It's one of my most used tools

[Motomikey]

I know you guys probably don't find this an issue any more, but as a complete novice with no existing tools, adhesives, lubricants, etc., I find I'm having to shop all over the place for each individual thing that I need. Not that it's a massive problem, but it's costing a small fortune in P&P - and then there's the logistical hassle of several packages coming on different days etc. But once they're bought they're bought I suppose.

Anyway, thanks again for all the advice.

Mike

[jiberjaber]

Well I can strongly recommend the allen key driver sets and esky box spanners from fast lads, if you are looking

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/delu...09)-p-486.html

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/ek1-...er-p-1869.html

[rspblake]

http://www.evorc.com/section.php/91/1/wera-tools

Also good for tail bolts on the new N9 SE tail hub..

[Andy from Sandy]

and esky box spanners from fast lads

Except their website shows no stock.

I would always disassemble it and check for Loctite

But once taken apart you have broken the bond. It is a strange phrase checking for loctite. Once apart loctite needs to be applied before re-assembly doesn't it?

[Motomikey]

http://www.evorc.com/section.php/91/1/wera-tools

Also good for tail bolts on the new N9 SE tail hub..

I already got one of those nut spinners from you, but now I realise I need two. Any chance of a free P&P on a second one?

That nut spinner and ball link pliers seem to be the only tools you sell though. I need to get every tool required for this build.

Great service all the same! Kit ordered and arrived the following day.

Cheers,
Mike

[Motomikey]

But once taken apart you have broken the bond. It is a strange phrase checking for loctite. Once apart loctite needs to be applied before re-assembly doesn't it?

I got some of the Loctite 641 like you suggested Andy.

What would be the best technique for putting loctite on bearings? Would it be to put a drop at the edge of the bearing while it is in position and let capillary attraction do the rest? or some other method altogether?

Cheers,
Mike