Announcement

**Chris Boughton** · 17-01-2013, 06:39 AM

Main Frames
Now we move onto the main frame assembly, grab the frames, engine mounts, fuel tank rubbers and grommets, gov sensor, canopy mounts, canopy spacer, frame spacer, tail control arm and all the various bolts and washers etc (1). Now we prep the right hand frame (Frames are handed and identified by the bearings factory installed into the frames) (2) Install the right hand engine mount using two M3x8mm button head screws. Next install the canopy spacer with the collar and M3x14mm bolt followed by installing the canopy mount with an M3x12mm bolt. Add the gov sensor and mount but don’t fully tighten yet. Then insert the fuel line grommet and fuel tank rubber onto the frame. Lastly build up the tail control shaft using the correct balls, washers and bolts specified in the manual then bolt to the frame using two M3x6mm bolts. This completes the right hand frame prep, now add the same parts to the left hand frame bar the tail control arm and gov sensor (3).

Now we come back to the right hand frame and add the following; clutch stack, Radio
tray, fuel tank, Main shaft bearing blocks, front and rear frame braces and
front and back frame mounts. First slide the fuel tank into the frame from the
inside, it’s a hard job but is possible and is made a bit easier using Vaseline
on the tank rubbers. Now we can bolt the radio tray on using four M3x8 socket
head bolts, then loosely bolt on the main shaft bearing blocks (without thread
lock at the moment) then bolt on the clutch stack followed by adding the front
and rear frame/landing gear mounts. Lastly the front and rear frame braces are
added this completes this step ready to add the left hand frame (4). Now we can
add the left hand frame to the assembly, push the frame onto the tank and add
the front and rear frame braces at this stage partially bolt everything
together (not fully tightening yet). Once every bolt is partially screwed in
place the frame assembly onto a flat surface, then slide the main shaft through
the bearing blocks, now we can start tightening all the bolts down, whilst
tightening down the bolts makes sure the main shaft runs freely and slides up
and down freely. This will ensure the frame sets will the built up square
putting less stress on the components such as bearing blocks and clutch stack.
It will give better performance with square frames. Once all bolts have been
thread locked and tightened double check square’ness on a flat surface and
check main shaft runs freely. This completes the frame assembly (5) and can be
put aside ready for the next step.

Fan, Clutch, shroud and engine
Now we grab the engine and assemble the fan, clutch and shroud to it before loosely mounting it into the frames. (1) Here I have an OS105 which will be going into the heli. Along with the fan, clutch, fan mount, shroud and all the various bolts as stated in the manual. First grab the fan mount and push the fan onto it from the bottom up, secure the fan using the four M4x5mm bolts with thread lock (2). The fan assembly can now be mounted onto the engine crankshaft making sure to put the crankshaft washer on first as supplied with the engine (3). There are lots of different methods to complete this step that require crank locking tools etc. My method has worked for me fine every time and only requires a towel and a 12mm spanner. Firstly push the fan mount block onto the crankshaft as far as you can, now thread the engine fan nut down to the fan mount block and continue to tighten it down with a 12mm spanner until it pushes the fan mount flush with the crankshaft washer (using the towel to wrap round the fan if needed to stop the engine turning over). Now make sure there is no up or downwards movement when pushing and pulling the fan away and towards the engine. If there is you need to tighten the nut more to eliminate all movement. When you get to the stage of no up and down movement you can unscrew the engine fan nut and apply some thread lock to it (this is optional as everyone has their different opinions on doing this but I’ve been doing it ever since I’ve flown nitro helis and had no problems in doing so) Now we can tighten the nut down and give it a good tighten. Now take the two M3x12mm clamp bolts and screw them into the fan mount making sure to tighten them evenly and apply thread lock. Next grab the clutch and place it onto the top of the fan mount lining up the holes in the clutch and mount, then tighten it down with the two M4x8mm bolts.

Next we can work on the fan shroud, this requires a little bit of work when using the OS105 as the carb velocity stack interferes with the shroud. Check by attaching the shroud onto the engine and make sure the shroud doesn’t interfere with the carb opening. If it does just simply grab a dremel and start taking out material as shown in image number (4) until the carb fits into the shroud without interference. Now fit the shroud over the engine and fan, make sure the tongue and grove on the shroud halves locate properly (5). Last step here is to loosely fit the engine into the mounts using the four M4x16mm bolts and loosely fit the shroud using the four M3x8mm socket head bolts (6). These will all be fully tightened in the following step.

Landing Gear, Base plate and Engine tightening
The 700n DFC features the traditional Align landing gear design with the plastic struts and alloy skid pipe (1). I assemble this step slightly differently to the manual to make the build slightly easier. Firstly grab the carbon base plate and attach it onto the bottom of the frames using the two M3x8mm socket head bolts which screw into the 2 middle holes and into the bottom of the engine mounts. Don’t fully tighten them yet. Now grab the 2 plastic struts and screw them through the base plate using two M3x12mm bolts and washers, then fully tighten them down and fully tighten the 2 middle bolts on the base plate, the heli will now stand on the skids. Next we can push the 2 skid pipes into the struts and lock them off at you desired position with then 4 grub screws. This completes the skids (2). Last step here is to centralize the engine and tighten it down. We do this by turning the engine over with the starter, whilst turning it over tighten each engine bolt evenly until all bolts are fully tightened, now check to make sure the fan doesn’t interfere with the shroud when turning the engine over, if the fan interferes just move the shroud slightly until it no longer touches, then tighten the fan shroud using the 4 M3x8mm socket bolts. This step is complete and we will move onto the tail gearboxes and torque tube assembly next.

**Chris Boughton** · 17-01-2013, 06:40 AM

Tail end, Gearboxes and Torque tube
(1) Here is the front gearbox, there is no assembly required at this stage as its all factory assembled but I thought I would open it up just to check the gears were seated properly. (2) Finished assembly. Next we can disassemble the tail gearbox (3) ready to be reassembled with thread lock (4). One tip here to check is to look for any end float on the tail output shaft, eliminating any end float here will result in a trouble free tail. Eliminate any end float with some thin shims.

Now we can dissemble the tail pitch slider mechanism (5) which will be built up with correct thread lock applied to each bolt. Make sure not to over tighten any bolts here as this could result in the bearings running rough and binding. Check to make sure all parts of the pitch slider run freely. Now we will have the pitch mechanism running freely as illustrated here (6). Next we disassemble the tail blade grips and build them back up with correct greasing of the thrust bearings making sure to have the thrust race facing inwards so they ‘cup’ the grease. Then thread lock the grips on with the two M3x8mm bolts and corresponding washers. One tip here is to not over tighten these 2 bolts as this will weaken the bolts and with prolonged use up’s the chance of the bolts shearing of in flight (7). Last step for the tail gearbox is to attach the tail grips to the output shaft with the M4x4mm grub screw (8) then to attach the pitch slider to the tail blade grips with the two M2x8mm Collar screws. Don’t over tighten these as it can result in the bearings binding up. Now we have the complete tail gearbox assembly double check at this stage making sure all bearings operate freely. Then when happy this can be placed aside ready for the torque tube preparation.

Torque Tube and Boom installation
Now we can focus on the tail end of the heli, first grab the torque tube, 2 bearings and the 2 bearing rubber holders (1). First step is to measure out on the torque were the bearings will be mounted. The manual states each bearing should be placed approx 265mm from each end of the torque tube. Measure this out from each end and put a little mark onto the tube. Now quickly clean down the torque tube free of oil and grease with an alcohol substance, now we can apply some R48 bearing locking compound (green) onto the tube where we measured out, now slide the bearing over the substance to meet the little line we made, make sure no excess locking compound gets into the bearings. Repeat the same procedure for the other bearing, Now we can leave this to dry for an hour or so (2). Once the bearings have locked onto the tube we can simply push the rubber holders over the bearings as in image number (3). Now we will push the torque tube into the boom but first decide which boom you want to use with an option of a full alloy boom or the alloy and carbon plated boom. I chose the alloy and carbon boom, now grab some oil or silicon spray and spray or squirt some down the boom, then spray some all over the bearing rubbers this will help sliding of the tube into the boom. Now just simply push the rubbers and tube down the boom making sure the rubbers don’t come of the bearings, keep pushing until even amounts of tube are sticking out each end of the boom. Wipe away any excess oil and we can now look at attaching the boom to the heli.

For the next step we will require the boom, front gearbox, boom supports, boom clamp, horizontal fin and all corresponding bolts and nuts (4). First step is to locate the font gearbox into the frames then grab eight M3x8mm socket head bolts apply thread lock to them and bolt the gearbox into the frames, but don’t fully tighten the bolts down yet. Now grab the boom and insert it into the front gear box making sure you push the front end of the boom in (end with the slot), then push the torque tube in to locate into the gearbox gear (tip here is to put one finger on the tail auto gear to stop it rotating then with your other hand push the torque tube in whilst rotating it slowly until it locates into the gear then push the tube all the way in). Now fully push the tail boom into the gearbox making sure the hole in the side of the gearbox lines up with the hole in the boom. When they line up we can screw in the locking bolt with a little bit of CA glue, now pull the torque tube back out slightly (0.5mm -1mm) so it doesn’t sit on the back of the gear, this will allow for expansion of the tube in hot weathers. Lastly fully tighten the gearbox into the frames (5). Now slide the tail push rod guide onto the boom, we can now install the boom supports onto the tail boom clamp and frame using the M4 bolts and washers. Remember to keep the horizontal fin level when tightening everything (6). Finally the last step here is to attach the tail gearbox assembly onto the boom with the vertical fin. One tip I’ve found that helps here is to wrap around the end of the boom once, some clear tape, then we simply push the tail gearbox onto the boom so the hole in the gearbox side lines up with the one in the boom. Now we can push the stabilizer mount into the hole, and then insert the two M3x26mm bolts and washers into the tail fin then into the tail gearbox. Now tighten these down making sure to keep the tail output shaft level (7).

**Chris Boughton** · 17-01-2013, 06:41 AM

CCPM Control shaft and Anti rotation bracket
Here we assemble the CCPM control shaft, bell cranks and anti-rotation bracket into the frames. First step is to prep the bell cranks and anti-rotation bracket, the bell cranks require thread locking the correct balls into the correct holes ensuring to use the inner hole and making sure one bell crank is made up for the right hand frame and the other for the left hand frame as show in the image. Now we can prep the anti-rotation bracket, firstly disassemble the bracket completely, now we can screw the ball link onto the arm making sure its seated flush and tightened well. Next we attach the arm onto the bell crank using the supplied M3x8mm socket bolts and corresponding collars, make sure to insert the collars into the inner holes of the two, then simply thread lock the bolts down until they start to nip making sure the bearing don’t become notchy and bind. If they do back them out slightly until they run free. Now thread lock the two last balls into the bell crank arm on the anti rotation bracket as show in the image. Now the parts are prepped and ready to be installed into the frames (1). First grab the control shaft and push it into one of the bearings in the frame, now hold the anti rotation bracket in line with the bearings and push the control shaft through the anti rotation bracket and out into the other bearing leaving even amounts of shaft sticking out each bearing. No we can install the bell cranks making sure to orientate them the correct way as show in the image. Now push the control shaft collar onto the shaft followed by the bell crank and lastly screw down with the M3x6mm socket bolt and washer (don’t thread lock this bolt yet). Now complete the same procedure for the other bell crank, once both bolts have been tightened we can check for end play in the shaft, grab both bell cranks and push and pull on them to see if any end float appears. If you find some play shim out the slop using the supplied 5×0.2mm -0.5mm shims, placing them between the bearing and collar until you eliminate all the slop making sure to use the same size shims for each side. With all slop eliminated we can thread lock the two M3x6mm socket bolts just nipping them us to avoid bearing lockup, a quick check should reveal the bell cranks fall under their own weight. Last step here is to tighten the anti rotation bracket onto the control shaft with the M4x4mm grub screw, making sure to have the anti rotation bracket central on the shaft using the clutch starter cup to help align it as show in the image, This competes the assembly (2) and we can move onto the servo installations.

Servo Installation
For this build I will be using the supplied Align DS615 servos for cyclic, DS655 for tail and an Align DS620 for throttle control, as shown in image (1) along with the various fixtures, metal servo horns and the elevator servo mount. First step is to prep all the servos by installing the grommets and brass ferrules (2). (3) Here we have the elevator servo mounted into its alloy mount. One tip here I found by mistake was to centre the elevator servo now and attach the servo horn and balls, as with the narrow frames it’s a real pain trying to install the servo horn once the servo is mounted into the frames. Other than that the elevator servo is a nice fit into the frames.

Here (4) we have the left hand cyclic servo and throttle servo installed. And now the right hand cyclic servo and tail servo installed (5). Next step is to centre all the servos and install the horns so they are all as close to 90 degrees as possible with the balls mounted correctly on the horns. For the cyclic servos mount the balls onto the inner holes. Tail servo I ended up with the ball mounted onto the outer hole (18mm from centre). For the throttle servo I have the ball mounted on the second hole in (14mm from centre) With the ball mounted on the inner hole on the carb horn. Next step to complete here is to make up all the linkage rods using the correct rods, use the manual specified lengths as a guide then once installed onto the model adjust each rod to align the bell cranks at 90 degrees when the servo horns are centred. (Make sure you push the links onto the balls the correct way round so the ‘A’ faces outwards and make sure when making up the push pull bell cranks than both linkage rods are the same length) .Then we can connect the tail push rods up and adjust so the tail bell crank is at 90 degrees when the tail servo is centred, then adjust the long tail push rod so the tail blades give 0 degrees pitch. With this done we can tighten up the tail pushrod guide roughly in the middle of the boom (securing the metal tube with CA glue were the pushrod guide touches the pushrod) make sure the pushrod is running straight when looking down the pushrod. Next we can connect up the CCPM bell cranks to the swashplate making sure when the servos are centred the bell cranks are level and the swashplate is level. Lastly connect up the throttle servo to the carb horn making sure to get the throttle servo travel as close to 100% on both min and max throttle. This is a simple servo setup guide that will provide a very precise setup if done correctly. I didn’t take any photos of the finished push rod setup so look further down in the review at the completed build to see the pushrods and horns.

Exhaust Installation
For this build I have chosen to use the Black Curtis Youngblood MP7 for the OS105. And will be using the Lynx Heli Innovations High temp Gasket sealant as shown in image (1) along with the mounting bolts. (2) Next we make sure the engine exhaust mount is clean from grease and oils, then we apply a thin layer of the gasket sealant to cover the whole exhaust mount. One tip I use when attaching the exhaust to the engine is to heat up the exhaust bolts in an oven then screw them straight into the engine until the exhaust is fully tightened. The reason for heating up the bolts is once they cool down they will shrink slightly in size which will pull the exhaust tighter to the engine and help prevent the exhaust coming loose in flight. Finished assembly shown here (3). The exhaust is a perfect fit and gives good clearance from the fuel tank and canopy.

Fuel line Plumbing
Here I have installed the fuel filter onto a mount as I do with my other nitro machines, this ensures the fuel lines do bang around during flight. With the filter mounted vertically it took some thinking on how to route the fuel lines but with some trial and error I came up with and ‘S’ snaking route as show in the image, making sure not to kink any of the fuel tubes. I’ve attached a fuel clamp onto the line between the carb and filter to prevent flooding the engine when filling up the tank. Make sure to mount the filter the correct way around (arrow on filter pointing towards the carb fuel line). Lastly we have to install the exhaust pressure line, pushing it through the grommets into the frames and out the other side, push the end onto the exhaust pressure nipple and pull pack through the other side until there is correct length to give a nice round curve (helps prevent the fuel line from cracking when it gets heated up by the exhaust). Then we can cut down the line on the fuel tank side and push the end over the tank pressure nipple. This completes the fuel line plumbing.

Lipo mounting
Mounted using the supplied sticky back Velcro pads and Velcro straps. There was one modification I made allowing me to use 2 straps securing the battery as shown. I had to cut a small slot into the RX tray near the front allowing a front strap to be mounted around the battery as shown.

Electronics Placement and Installation
Here I will cover were I mounted and how I mounted each of the electronic components.
MSH Brain FBL- I mounted this on the purpose made FBL mounting position using one layer of gyro tape supplied with the Brain unit.
Satellite receivers (Spektrum DSM2)- Using 2 layers of double sided foam tape (4mm thickness in total) I mounted one satellite to the front of the RX tray and the other mounted behind the main gear on the right hand side frame. I used K&S servo wire holders to route the RX cable to the brain FBL unit.
Gryphon Regulator and Switch (Vega 10amp and external slide switch, output voltage set to 6v)–I mounted the regulator on the top of the RX tray using 2 layers of double side foam tape (4mm in thickness). Then I mounted the external switch on top of the elevator servo mount using a thin layer of all purpose glue.
RX Battery (OptiPower 2s 3650mah, using XT60 connector) – Mounted in the dedicated position under the RX tray using the supplied sticky back Velcro pads and then further secured with the supplied ALIGN Velcro strips.
The following images show the completed electronics installation and finished build, giving you a good idea of the wiring routes I used.

**Chris Boughton** · 17-01-2013, 06:42 AM

Canopy Preparation
On this step we will prep the canopy ready for installation onto the heli, for this step we will require the canopy, canopy grommets and canopy protectors as show in image (1). Next we install the canopy protectors into the canopy holes securing with CA glue (one tip here to consider is to install the canopy protectors from the inside of the canopy rather than the outside, providing more protection and durability from prolonged use). Now we simply push the grommets into the canopy protectors as shown completed in image (2) complete the same procedure for the 3 remaining mounting holes. In image (3) you can see how the canopy is secured onto the canopy posts with the safety pin installed.

Finishing Touches
Now we have almost finished the build we can add all the finishing touches and clear up all the wiring and installation of the clunk line. The clunk line installation is quite straight forward grab the clunk and push it onto the clunk line, I cut the line down by about 5mm, then we simply attach this end of the line to the fuel tank plug and push the clunk into the tank hole and then push the plug into the grommet in the tank. Next we attach the rotor head to the heli by simply dropping the main shaft into the bearing blocks and then into the main gear, tighten up the Jesus bolt then see if there is any vertical play when pulling up on the head. If there is then simply use one of the supplied main shaft shims to eliminate all the slop. Now we can attach the push rods and elevator ‘A’ arm to the swashplate. The last step to do is attach the main and tail blades. I usually run the main blades fairly tight so in the case of a hard auto-rotation landing the blades don’t fold back, make sure to get both blades evenly tightened. I run the tail blades fairly loose, tight enough to hold their own weight and making sure they don’t have any sideways movement in the blade grip. The next step we would consider doing would be to setup your FBL unit but seen as everyone will be using different units it won’t be of much help on the heli build, maybe I will do a detailed review of the Brain FBL at a later date. Last step her to conclude the build is the installation of the canopy, simply a case of pushing the grommets over the post and then pushing the safety pin over the post (MAKE SURE TO USE THE SAFTEY PIN!!) Here as some detailed photos of the completed heli.

Pro’s and Con’s
Pros – Nice narrow frame design, Helical main and auto gears, low riding landing gear, very nice canopy shape and colour scheme, DFC head low COG, Spares readily available and very well priced, carbon tail pushrod, large fuel tank and big RX tray.
Cons – Canopy posts are fiddly to fit canopy on, slight slop in DFC dampers, starter shaft one way bearing slipping on cold days, was expecting to see a 3^rd main shaft bearing block, only comes as a combo kit.
Conclusion
Overall I see this to be an excellent kit at a good price, coming with all electronics and blades, which is great for a beginner or sports pilot but I would have preferred the choice of different servos, FBL and blades, I do really like the DFC canopy shape and colour scheme although now I want something different so it stands out from everyone else’s 700N DFC!! Defiantly a kit I would recommend to anyone, the build went well and I found no issues, although a couple con’s as above. I hope this review has helped, stay tuned for a Flight review and an upgrade review coming soon. Visit www.rcheroflightteam.co.uk for all info about us and to view our blog.
Thanks for reading.

Chris Boughton

**George J** · 17-01-2013, 07:24 AM

Very nice build thread Chris, it must have taken a good bit of your time to put it together. (not the heli!)

They do look nice I must admit and very nearly bought one recently.

George

**Delarado** · 17-01-2013, 11:30 AM

Very nice build thread indeed, you were up early!

I also own one of these helis and love it. It's the most recent addition to my fleet of an MCPX, 130x, 450, 500 EFL Pro DFC and a Goblin 700 (With top of the range everything)

I reckon I fly the 700N DFC 4:1 everything else. It's just so nice and easy to just pick it up and go fly. It flies wonderfully, yet does feel so much like a "shelf queen" as my goblin does (Despite the fact I do like to abuse the goblin when I do take it out)

Theres some nice touches on your build there chris, Ilike where youve put the little pull pin for the regulator - mine sticks out the back of the frame near the boom supports so the red ribbon is easy to grab and remove the thing, but I do like where youve put yours. My setup is also opposite of yours - my flight pack is where your regulator is and my regulator is where your flight pack is. I find mine very tail heavy, how is yours?

I also have a set of spin 710s on mine which fly very nicely. Ive also put a header tank on mine, and I now use a fuel magnet (I was finding I was getting a half full header tank when the main tank was below about 1/4 full, which is frankly rubbish!)

With a fuel magnet / header tank combination it works much better and im not getting such bad fuel starvation. 10 minutes of flight at 1800 rpm without pushing it at all fuel wise, 8 minutes at 2050 or so. Lovely jubbly, i really enjoy this heli!

**Delarado** · 17-01-2013, 11:36 AM

Trex 700n DFC Build review

Fuel tank wiring. For the header tank I drilled a small hole in the frame, used a cap head screw to screw a canopy post onto, then one of the pieces of studding you get to attach another one. This was just about the right size to leave a 3-4mm gap between the main tank and the header tank.

Regulator switch position

Wiring for regulator etc. The two thickish braided lines there are all of the servo leads that go into the gryphon. Ive also attached a 6s balance lead extender to the 2s battery (only because I dont own a 2s extension) IVe attached this to the skids so I Can see how much power is left in my RX pack without removing the canopy.

The other side. You can see the positioning of the Vbar sensor, the Vbar unit itself, one of the satellite RX's, and also the white ribbon cable that goes to one of coolice's bluetooth units for the Vbar

**Chris Boughton** · 17-01-2013, 05:39 PM

Originally posted by jonesheli View Post

Very nice build thread Chris, it must have taken a good bit of your time to put it together. (not the heli!)

They do look nice I must admit and very nearly bought one recently.

George

Thanks dude yea it took a while to write the review out, took about 2 days to build the heli lol!!!

Originally posted by Delarado View Post

Very nice build thread indeed, you were up early!

I also own one of these helis and love it. It's the most recent addition to my fleet of an MCPX, 130x, 450, 500 EFL Pro DFC and a Goblin 700 (With top of the range everything)

I reckon I fly the 700N DFC 4:1 everything else. It's just so nice and easy to just pick it up and go fly. It flies wonderfully, yet does feel so much like a "shelf queen" as my goblin does (Despite the fact I do like to abuse the goblin when I do take it out)

Theres some nice touches on your build there chris, Ilike where youve put the little pull pin for the regulator - mine sticks out the back of the frame near the boom supports so the red ribbon is easy to grab and remove the thing, but I do like where youve put yours. My setup is also opposite of yours - my flight pack is where your regulator is and my regulator is where your flight pack is. I find mine very tail heavy, how is yours?

I also have a set of spin 710s on mine which fly very nicely. Ive also put a header tank on mine, and I now use a fuel magnet (I was finding I was getting a half full header tank when the main tank was below about 1/4 full, which is frankly rubbish!)

With a fuel magnet / header tank combination it works much better and im not getting such bad fuel starvation. 10 minutes of flight at 1800 rpm without pushing it at all fuel wise, 8 minutes at 2050 or so. Lovely jubbly, i really enjoy this heli!

Yea its a real nice machine and was a good build. Im using an OS bubbleless clunk and will specify all the upgrades and extras i have put into my machine on an upgrade review comming soon. Thanks yea i managed to get a very neat installation on my heli and might swap my reg and lipo position over at a later date to up the COG, Nice i was thinking baout getting a set of spins or edges to put on soon nhow u finding yours?? My heli is only slightly tail heavy what MAH pack are u using? Unfortunatly ive only had around 20 flights on it soo far, but its getting better and better each flight the brain is almost dialled in and the 105 is chucking out bags of power

Cant wait to get more flights on it!!

Originally posted by Delarado View Post

Fuel tank wiring. For the header tank I drilled a small hole in the frame, used a cap head screw to screw a canopy post onto, then one of the pieces of studding you get to attach another one. This was just about the right size to leave a 3-4mm gap between the main tank and the header tank.

[ATTACH]54150[/ATTACH]

Regulator switch position

[ATTACH]54151[/ATTACH]

Wiring for regulator etc. The two thickish braided lines there are all of the servo leads that go into the gryphon. Ive also attached a 6s balance lead extender to the 2s battery (only because I dont own a 2s extension) IVe attached this to the skids so I Can see how much power is left in my RX pack without removing the canopy.

[ATTACH]54152[/ATTACH]

The other side. You can see the positioning of the Vbar sensor, the Vbar unit itself, one of the satellite RX's, and also the white ribbon cable that goes to one of coolice's bluetooth units for the Vbar

[ATTACH]54153[/ATTACH]

Nice i might stick with the bubbleless clunk for thw while and see how it goes

Remember keep an eye on our blog over on RC Hero Flight Team | www.rc-hero.co.uk Flight Team. for the latest news

Cheers Chris

**speedy jon** · 17-01-2013, 10:17 PM

Trex 700n DFC Build review

Very nice build thread.
Will own one of these soon

**smokingtommy** · 17-01-2013, 11:08 PM

its post like this that become so valuable to others not only to future owners of this heli but to all as you have added your neat tips and tricks like heating up the bolts to fix exhaust etc which will help all (new and old ) heli hobbyists well done and thanks for adding this great post

**Gixxer** · 18-01-2013, 12:23 AM

Originally posted by Delarado View Post

Fuel tank wiring. For the header tank I drilled a small hole in the frame, used a cap head screw to screw a canopy post onto, then one of the pieces of studding you get to attach another one. This was just about the right size to leave a 3-4mm gap between the main tank and the header tank.

[ATTACH]54150[/ATTACH]

That's a lot of weight and leverage on such a small mounting footprint. Do you not have any problems with vibrations causing it to come loose?

**Chris Boughton** · 20-01-2013, 02:54 PM

Originally posted by smokingtommy View Post

its post like this that become so valuable to others not only to future owners of this heli but to all as you have added your neat tips and tricks like heating up the bolts to fix exhaust etc which will help all (new and old ) heli hobbyists well done and thanks for adding this great post

No worries dude and yea completly agree i often refure to RCHA when im trying to make a desicion.
Just incase your interested ive found the fix and problem to the slipping clutch in cold weather, the reason it slips is because when the grease in the oneway bearing gets cold it goes hard which prevents the sgrag fingers from springing out to create the one way bearing. I cleaned all the grease out of the bearing and replaced it with oil i hope this helps. Cheers guys look out for a new upgrade review comming soon.

Regards Chris

Announcement

Trex 700n DFC Build review

Trex 700n DFC Build review

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment